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Thread: SGN-22 article

  1. #21
    Gunco Veteran muttman's Avatar
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    moleman,
    ejector from the botom. I dint think there was the space to, but then I dont have a AR just a how to biy a lower. muttman

  2. #22
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    Muttman, I'm just going to make mine an upper for an ar15 in either 22mag or 17hmr. Here is the picture of the magwell adaptor I spoke of. It has an ejector comming up from behind where the 9mm mag would be. I figure I'd make the same thing only to fit savage 22magnum magazines. C PRODUCTS AR 15 9mm magwell block AR15 : for AR-15 at GunBroker.com

  3. #23
    Gunco Veteran muttman's Avatar
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    well that solves one of my problems, the other is saving some $$$ for a barrel. muttman

  4. #24
    Gunco Member TradeGun's Avatar
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    The third article comes out next week right? I'm wondering how he's feeding the .22lr. Do you think he is chambering them with his thumb and then closing the bolt? I can't figure out how to get the shell up a ramp with that bolt.

    I got my barrel almost finished, I am going to wait until I weld it in the receiver to Acraglass in the chamber liner.

  5. #25
    Gunco Rookie Red Dwarf's Avatar
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    I've re-read the first two articles several times and I don't really understand how the bolt works. As I understand it, on a blow-back bolt the pressure pushes the bolt back (usually against a spring) and the spring controls the distance the bolt is allowed to travel. I'm not seeing any spring behind the bolt, so is this build relying solely on the mass of the bolt and it travels back until the bolt handle hits the end of it's slot in the receiver? Another question - it seems that since there is no way to lock the bolt in the forward position, the ejector would tend to hold it back slightly from the chamber - how does that get resolved?

    These questions might be addressed in the next issue, and maybe for this build are unimportant. I'd just like to understand how the design works in order to transfer the knowledge to other potential projects.

    I've given some thought to how I would approach some of the aspects of this rifle. I'm thinking that the two-piece bolt suggested earlier would really simplify its construction and I will probably have some questions on that later. I'm also toying with the idea of putting a AR-15 collapsible stock on it - adds a lot to the build cost, but I think it would be more aesthetically pleasing. Just have to make sure it meets the BATF requirements in the fully collapsed position.

    Thanks for your thoughts and insights. I don't post much but I do get a lot of good info here.

    RD

  6. #26
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    I'm sure he uses a recoil spring or some sort in the build. The third article looks like it just covers the bolt handle and fire control. The final article is due june 20th so we'll find out then.

  7. #27
    Gunco Rookie Red Dwarf's Avatar
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    Thanks, I guess I need to practice more patience I'm pretty interested to see how the FCG is laid out.

    I got word today that my metal is on the way, so I can get started with this. Will post up my progress as things go along.

  8. #28
    Gunco Member TradeGun's Avatar
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    I think I'm going to go with a multi part bolt as well. I got to thinking about welding the barrel. Does it have to be welded. or can it be pinned in place like most .22 rifles?

    This is the first gun I've built from scratch, is there some rule that says homebuilt receivers have to be permanently attached to the barrel or is it just because it was easy?

  9. #29
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    Keep us posted Red Dwarf, I haven't even ordered my steel yet. I do have some 1.5" I could turn down but I don't want to.
    Tradegun, IIRC he did pin it. I think he welded over the pin so it would be seamless. I can't find the first article at the moment

  10. #30
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    Tradegun: The barrel was pinned to the receiver and the pin was welded. Then he rosette welded the shroud to the barrel and to the receiver (left a small gap between the shroud and the receiver and filled it with a weld). I've been pondering that issue as well as I don't really like welding on the barrel that much.

    For the bolt, I was thinking about using the 3/4" rod for the front and then a piece of 3/4" tube with a .095 wall for the back part. I think that should leave enough clearance after turning for the firing pin - have to double check how wide the hammer slot in Matthew's bolt was. That was sort of my next set of questions - if the original was relying on the mass of the bolt for the blowback operation, then I would have to figure out how much it could be lightened by using different materials and still work. What ideas did you have for the bolt construction?

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