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Thread: Using all thread to install barrel w/photos

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    Unclear Engineer ozzy the nuke's Avatar
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    Default Using all thread to install barrel w/photos

    Here are some photos of the homemade tool I use to remate the barrel and trunnion. This tool was made from 5/16 all thread rod with the peaks of the threads turned off to make it small enough to fit down a barrel. I took the peaks off in a lathe, but I am sure it could be done with a hand drill and a file.
    You dont have to take off much.

    Notice also that I use a fit up punch to make sure I dont go too far when installing the barrel. I insert the punch when the hole becomes big enough. I tap tap tap the punch in as I continue to slowly pull the barrel in. As the barrel pin hole lines up, the punch will get snug. If you watch the position of the punch in the hole on the far side of the trunnion, you can judge how close you are by how well the small end of the punch is centered in the hole.

    These photos were of an AMD 65 barrel being installed after the trunnion was riveted to the receiver.
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    Unclear Engineer ozzy the nuke's Avatar
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    Here are some more photos. These are of the tool as used on a Polish underfolder. The barrel was installed before riveting (I bucked against the barrel).
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    Unclear Engineer ozzy the nuke's Avatar
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    If I use antiseize, the barrels pull right in without much stress on the all thread. The AMD got tough because I am still working out the bugs on my rivet squeezer. I didnt get the rivets squeezed enough, and the barrel hit them on the way in. The all thread held up fine though.

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    Unclear Engineer ozzy the nuke's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. Here are some answers to your questions.

    No worries on breaking the rod. Didnt have to apply much torque at all (except when rivets got in the way). Nice and easy. If it is too tough for the rod, better back up. Something is wrong. I think a 1/4 rod might do it. Then it wouldnt have to be turned down, and could be wrapped (with electricians tape, for example). If it breaks, you are only out a couple of bucks. The key is antiseize. Worked on a Romy, AMD 65 and a Polish.

    The way I look at it, I want the all thread to be the weak link. The all thread can be replaced easier than a barrel or trunnion.

    The vise jaws had rubber covered protectors to keep from scarring the receiver.

    I used an oversized nut inside the receiver to transfer the force directly to the trunnion. That way the receiver saw no force. I think I will improve on the nut.

    I am not bucking against the barrel anymore either. I think it is OK, just not the best.

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    Unclear Engineer ozzy the nuke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SangRun Hunter
    I have an AMD-63 that is tighter than a nun's you know what! I think it would be an issue using this method.

    The 2 Romy's and the Bulgy I have done were breezes and I could this working on them.
    Well, Sang, it just so happened that my next project was to be an AMD 63. And you were right....issues. Got the barrel out (whew), trunnion rivetted and barrel back in(DAMN!!!!!), but not before breaking one rod and redesigning the part that goes in the receiver. That thing was way too tight. I should have reversed course early, but wanted to see how much the rod would take and what would happen if it broke. I found out. The story and pictures at 11. Gotta run now.

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    Unclear Engineer ozzy the nuke's Avatar
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    Here is the rest of the story.

    AMD 63 Adventure

    I tried to pull the barrel using a modified HF pitman arm puller. This puller had previously made easy work of Romanians and Polish. Oops, peeled the threads right out and didn't even budge the barrel.
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    Time to bring out old faithful, the Posilock puller. This gave some trouble because three jaw pullers don?t fit up so that the axis of the screw and the barrel are in line. But perseverance paid off, and with a sound like that of breaking glass the barrel budged. A few minutes later, it was out.
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    No wonder it came out so hard. The barrel shank and trunnion bore were dry as a bone. The others I have taken apart were oily. Anyway, it wasn?t badly galled. I cleaned up the barrel with emery cloth and the trunnion bore with a small cylinder hone. Coated them with antiseize. Should be a piece of cake, right? Isn?t that what I've been saying?
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    Previously I had used a nut inside the receiver to pull against the trunnion. Now I am going to use something better. Sorry, I don?t have a photo of them installed. I had to go back on the road tonight and didn?t bring all the right photo files with me. Later. For now, imagine that the larger piece is vertical with the notch at the feed ramp. The bottom of it will press against the bottom of the trunnion where the mag fits. The all thread is threaded in the hole. The top of it will press against the square block which is laying on top of the trunnion and will press against the ears that the pin goes through. I know, you need the rest of the pictures.
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    Ok, I don?t have pictures of what happened next. I was too focused on solving the problem. But here in a nutshell is what happened. It was tough going, but it was going, right up to the last 30 thousands (1/32). Then it stuck and would not move. First the threads stripped. Added two nuts and used them together. The rod snapped. Unthreaded it and made a new one. Reinstalled the new rod with double nuts. Tightened it up. Still stuck. Added nuts to the end of the rod to protect the threads. Placed the barrel end of the rod on a piece of wood on the concrete floor. Smacked the brace (previously the nut) firmly with a 32oz hammer. That moved it. Tightened it again. Smacked it again. Enough. Checked it over. No harm done. Installed the pin. Blah Blah Blah. Here it is together. The copper colored stuff is left over antiseize. That stuff is hard to get completely cleaned out.
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