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Thread: Input on Mill

  1. #11
    Gunco Veteran Viper Dude's Avatar
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    Hello Coils,
    You got a smokin' deal on that HF CM mill !!!!! There are numerous yahoo groups that have help and library info you can use. Pick a group that focusses on your type mill. Yes, there are such groups !! try the Yahoo group search function to find them. Look for user and parts manual(s) for your mill or a very similar version. The manuals may be available on line (free), or from Harbor Freight, or from a publisher such as Ozark Woodworker etc.

    The on-line homeshop machinery forums are a real gold mine of info and expertise. They are very helpful to newbies.

    Don't forget to ask the fellows here on gunco.net for some help too. Some of us have machine tool experience. My tiny homeshop has a HF "Big Red" mill, a Mini-lathe, etc... My new shop under construction has a full size K&T Milwaukee H-2 horizontal mill w/ added Bridgeport head, a Clausing lathe, plus other shop machines.

    To ease the cost of tooling you can shop for used tooling and salvage that will save major bux. Gotta know what the stuff looks like and does first. For starters get a text book or two on basic mill work (tech school or JC level would be fine). Used machinetool books can be had at college or JC used book stores at big savings.

    VD

  2. #12
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    You got a steal of a deal there! It does look like an earlier model of the same drill/mill I got. I've been very pleased with mine so far. It does have some limitations like the round column, but as long as you know about that and set your machine up with this in mind it hasn't been a problem yet. I think VZ put a pic up in my thread on how to attach a digital caliper to the downfeed. I still haven't done this yet as I found I like the digital caliper and have been using it so I need to get another one. For your down feed, I've been writting down the number I stop on when I lock the spindle. When you go to adjust it again you'll find the dial will no longer be where you left it, but if you bring it back to the number you locked it in at all seems good. Usually if you don't, the spindle will drop 1/16" or so because the hand dial turned to get the pressure of the spindle ram off of it while the machine was running. There's usually good deals on ebay for end mills. Just be patient on finding the right auction and don't get in a bidding contest with someone over them.

  3. #13
    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    VD I checked out Yahoo and only saw one group that looked like they delt with the same style Mill/Drill, most were for the mini & micro machines by name. I'll also look at the Homeshop forum later.
    And yes I know there's a few on here that have machining equiptment and hope to pick there brains a little too.

    Moleman I was thinking of that digital caliber thing, I know these machines aren't the best but for what I want to do I think it will be fine for me after seeing some of your pics. Thanks for the heads up on the down feed slop, I did notice the table has a little when changing directions but that's most like common since it's just a large bolt and these machines aren't top of the line.
    Yeah I know about ebay and the bidding wars, I looked at some of the auctions last night and saw a few decent deals but I have to wait a little before I start on that new expense. It did come with a few end mills and a friend thinks he has some his father gave him, so I have a few to play with.
    I will post better pics later, before cleaning and after, but other then a few minor things I think it's the same machine.

    Well I need to go and relax at the range for a few hours.
    "Government is not the solution to our problem, government is the problem" Ronald Reagan

  4. #14
    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    Well I need some info.
    I've been cleaning this thing, whenever I get a chance I do a section at a time.
    Well I noticed the Y axis has a lot of play and it's being caused by the piece that's mounted to the bottom of the table, it looks like the X axis table needs to be removed to get to it.
    Anyone got any info how to take this thing apart?
    "Government is not the solution to our problem, government is the problem" Ronald Reagan

  5. #15
    Gunco Member joezx10r's Avatar
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    U talking about the lead screw backlash? The slop when turning the dial one direction and then back the other?

  6. #16
    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    Yes and no, I know there's usually some backlash but this is like .080" on the dial & one full turn is .100"
    When I look from underneath I can see there's a piece mounted to the bottom that the threaded rod goes through and that piece is moving a good bit.
    I'll see if I can scan a pic from the manual.
    "Government is not the solution to our problem, government is the problem" Ronald Reagan

  7. #17
    Gunco Member joezx10r's Avatar
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    Yup sounds worn out. Our oldest enco mill at work only has .050. There should be something like this that may need to be replaced. Bronze & Plastic Sleeve Nuts - Part Numbers & Dimensions - Roton Products also some guys are using double nut lead screws with a spring between them for preload but im not real familiar with how exactly its done.

  8. #18
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coils View Post
    Yes and no, I know there's usually some backlash but this is like .080" on the dial & one full turn is .100"
    When I look from underneath I can see there's a piece mounted to the bottom that the threaded rod goes through and that piece is moving a good bit.
    I'll see if I can scan a pic from the manual.
    I'd run it past VZ, but it sounds like the two allen screws that hold on the bronze bushing have come loose. If you look up under the right side IIRC along the lead screw where it goes into the bushing there is an allen screw on the side to take up the backlash. Vz told me to loctite the mounting screws for it as they loosened up on him. I looked at it and couldn't see a way to get them both out without removing the table, so I left it alone and figured when it did loosen up I'd get to learn how to do it then. I've been using mine pretty regular for about 7 months now and the backlash is still less than .010" which is about where it was when I got it.

  9. #19
    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    Wow there's a lot of different ones.
    I think this one is still ok, as soon as I turn the crank in either direction it starts to move (the loose piece not the table), I'm guessing the bolt/pin that holds it in is either loose, stripped, or broke. If it's just the bolt/pin I can always try a larger one.
    Well here's the pics, any ideas to get this thing apart would be helpful.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    "Government is not the solution to our problem, government is the problem" Ronald Reagan

  10. #20
    Gunco Veteran Viper Dude's Avatar
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    Hello Coils,
    Yup !! You have to take the table cranks and end plates off to be able to slide the table out of the way to get to the bronze travel screw nuts. Don't loose the little woodruff keys and small stuff. Also don't jam or break the gibs (those little metal sticks filling the dovetail gaps). They are often made of cast iron which slides nicely, lots of graphite in cast iron.

    I took my mill table apart and the motor off so I could lift the lightened mill up onto the stand myself. OINK !!

    Take a close look at those bronze nuts to see if they are worn out. They are ACME threaded. The feed screws should not rattle around in those bronze nuts. When they are worn out some fellows cast solder into the treads (soot on the screws prevents seizing). Other fellows will partly slit the nut and squeeze the two halves together slightly with a small bolt. Cheap fix.

    Don't forget to check the end lash of the thrust bearings at the handles. They can be snugged up and/or shimmed to remove slop.

    On an extremely worn mill both the bronze nut(s) and the feed screw(s) will be shot. I hate it when that happens. They should be replaced. If you have access to a lathe it is possible to make your own repair parts. Acme all-thread can be found at the better industrial hardware and supply stores. It is available in 1 foot and 1 to 2 yard lengths. Old time machinists did that rather than buy new parts.

    Keep us posted on your mill tune-up. We're just full of suggestions !!!!

    VD

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