Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: Slightly off-topic: Building auto parts?

  1. #1
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    7,700
    Feedback Score
    3 (100%)

    Default Slightly off-topic: Building auto parts?

    I just found out I need $300-400 adjustable upper control arms to properly set the Caster on my Jeep to take out the "flighty" feeling. The factory arms are non-adjustable, and we put on big enough tires that we are out of spec. SO. I found a pic of some, and it seems to me that with my lathe and welder, I could do something like this for probably 1/4 the cost.

    Wondering if others have built any "critical" parts like these and any advice, or is it really worth it to buy Official aftermarket:

    Gunco Member #10

    http://pookieweb.net


    The "original" Boltcutter Rivet Squeezers:
    http://pookieweb.net/AK/rivet/boltcutters/boltcutter.htm


    Project Pink - the Pink and Blue AK-74:
    http://pookieweb.net/pink/pink.htm

  2. #2
    Gunco Veteran [486]'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    MSP area, MN
    Posts
    1,631
    Feedback Score
    0

    Default

    If you trust yourself with a reweld rifle I think you'd trust your welding skill enough. Pretty much all I've made that is comparable is a few go karts, and a tow bar, so no real experience here for you...

  3. #3
    GuncoHolic zteknik's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    2,467
    Feedback Score
    15 (100%)

    Default

    yup necesity is the mother of invention!!
    its amazing on the prices they charge for somthing you can make and probably better!!!
    when it came to custom front end or susspension parts i usualy made them anyway!
    i made a few rear upper arms for a honda like that-cut it in half threaded the inner tubes
    put in a threaded tie rod adjuster from a truck and tacked on locking clamps
    worked as good as the aftermarket replacements
    post pics when you get to it

  4. #4
    TRX
    TRX is online now
    Gunco Irregular TRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Central Arkansas
    Posts
    2,707
    Feedback Score
    3 (100%)

    Default

    You might be able to shorten a pair of junkyard upper control arms with less work than fabricating from scratch. I've built entire independent suspension systems with my 110V MIG welder. Just make sure the metal is thoroughly cleaned, bevel the joints, turn the power UP, and go for it.

    If you're lucky you might be able to just offset the bushing holes and weld some washers, or to slot the ball joint mounts.

  5. #5
    Gunco Regular chopper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    MICHIGAN
    Posts
    442
    Feedback Score
    0

    Default

    i built the control arms on my 06 mustang ,so it can be done at home.
    how ever i weld and fab metal for a living .but if you trust your welds i say go for it

  6. #6
    Gunco Veteran [486]'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    MSP area, MN
    Posts
    1,631
    Feedback Score
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TRX View Post
    I've built entire independent suspension systems with my 110V MIG welder. Just make sure the metal is thoroughly cleaned, bevel the joints, turn the power UP, and go for it.
    Not trying to get into the whole mig vs smaw argument but I wouldn't use an ordinary mig on things with that much force on them. Most people that have a mig have a little mig welder that won't get much penetration, but pretty much any AC stick welder will do 100 amps with 1/8" 6011 rods. Did some huge welds with my dad's stick welder on the tow bar I was talking of earlier, I was dang near burning through the 3/8" steel we were using, that's the penetration you want.

    If you have a stick welder, or if one is on craigslist near you I'd advise getting it out, and practicing a little for something like this.

  7. #7
    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    PA Where the Amish Roam Free
    Posts
    14,039
    Feedback Score
    38 (100%)

    Default

    Your welding skills is the important part, even if you can't weld or don't trust it, assemble it and spot it together, then take it to a pro and let him weld it. You'll still save a lot doing as much as you can yourself.
    "Government is not the solution to our problem, government is the problem" Ronald Reagan

  8. #8
    Gunco Regular chopper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    MICHIGAN
    Posts
    442
    Feedback Score
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by [486] View Post
    Not trying to get into the whole mig vs smaw argument but I wouldn't use an ordinary mig on things with that much force on them. Most people that have a mig have a little mig welder that won't get much penetration, but pretty much any AC stick welder will do 100 amps with 1/8" 6011 rods. Did some huge welds with my dad's stick welder on the tow bar I was talking of earlier, I was dang near burning through the 3/8" steel we were using, that's the penetration you want.

    If you have a stick welder, or if one is on craigslist near you I'd advise getting it out, and practicing a little for something like this.
    i should just let this go,but i cant.
    a good weld is based on the skill of the weldor stick or mig wont chang anything if you dont know how to put down a good weld more power
    wont help .
    and penetration is not all there is to getting a good weld not even close

  9. #9
    Gunco Veteran [486]'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    MSP area, MN
    Posts
    1,631
    Feedback Score
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by chopper View Post
    i should just let this go,but i cant.
    a good weld is based on the skill of the weldor stick or mig wont chang anything if you dont know how to put down a good weld more power
    wont help .
    and penetration is not all there is to getting a good weld not even close
    Most cheap MIG welders just can't do enough amperage or support heavy enough diameter wire to weld "thick" stuff like chassis parts. Preheating the metal might help, but I dunno.

  10. #10
    TRX
    TRX is online now
    Gunco Irregular TRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Central Arkansas
    Posts
    2,707
    Feedback Score
    3 (100%)

    Default

    Also avoiding the hee-haw vs. paw-paw debate, G-body A-arms are .090" sheet metal, and the Locost A-arms and semi-trailing arms I built were .062" tubing. You don't need big amperage for sheet metal, just a stable arc.

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Search tags for this page

There are currently no search engine referrals.
Click on a term to search our site for related topics.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •