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Thread: HF Drill/Mill to CNC ?

  1. #31
    Gunco Member Holescreek's Avatar
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    It's been too many years ago to remember exactly what I did with the Z, I remember I bought the short section of ballscrew with a round ball nut with a flange on it. I mounted the flange of the ball nut to the bottom of the pulley. I used both radial and thrust bearings inside the containment under the plate. I'd post a drawing but have long since lost all my CAD drawings on the whole conversion.

    If you're looking for good suppliers of components, this place was great do deal with and had the best prices on pulleys and belts at the time:
    XL Timing Belt Pulleys

    I told you wrong about where I got my breakout board. I just remembered it came from Cambell Designs. They are even running a special on it at the moment:
    Campbell Designs - CNC with Bob Campbell
    Last edited by Holescreek; 04-15-2012 at 11:39 PM.

  2. #32
    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    That's ok if you don't remember the details, you explained it well enough for me to understand.

    And thanks for the links.
    "Government is not the solution to our problem, government is the problem" Ronald Reagan

  3. #33
    tired of idiots vz58's Avatar
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    Ok, im back up and running. Have you settled on a ballscrew set up yet?

  4. #34
    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    Ok, im back up and running.
    That's good to hear.


    Well since I bought that Hornady press I'm a little short on funds for the ball screw stuff, I wanted to order the screws and nuts at the same time. I guess I could get the screw awhile and try to get the ends started (cut to length & start turning them down)

    I haven't decided what to do with the Z yet, to many choices

    Actually I'm still trying to figure out if I want to go direct drive or belt with stepped pulleys on the X & Y. I was figuring with pulleys I wouldn't have to worry about the motors to much with a 2:1 (or is it 1:2?) setup, if I'd go with something like the 495 oz motors and that pulley setup it should give me more then enough torque without stressing the motors. Or am I over thinking it?
    "Government is not the solution to our problem, government is the problem" Ronald Reagan

  5. #35
    tired of idiots vz58's Avatar
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    As part of my reinstall, i had to count the coggs on the pulleys. Motor pulleys are 13teeth and ball screw are 30 t


    The steppers and gecko will move faster then you will need. If you gear it down you will never be short of torque.

  6. #36
    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    Since you mentioned that about the steppers, I'm not worried about speed (like those big commercial machines), but I want to make sure I got enough power to move everything without over working the motors.


    You mentioned counting the cogs on the pulleys, is there something important about this? I never messed with cogged pulleys and thought you just got different diameters to achieve what ratio you want. I know you have to get the same style because of the cogs so they won't jump or skip.


    And I ordered the ball screw shafts today, two 3' pieces, don't know how fast Roton shipping is so I most likely won't get them until next week.
    "Government is not the solution to our problem, government is the problem" Ronald Reagan

  7. #37
    tired of idiots vz58's Avatar
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    Sure you can measure the diameters but its faster to coubt cogs. 10t and a 20 t gives you 20:10 refuction or 2:1. 13 was the smallest i found and 30 was the largest i thought would fit. Thus a 30:13 reduction.

  8. #38
    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    Now that makes it simpler, thanks for the tip. So does that make yours is 3:1.3 ?

    Since we got on this subject, you got me looking at them on the link you gave earlier and the stepper motors for shaft size.
    McMaster-Carr
    The motors I was thinking of getting have a 1/4" shaft. The site has 10 cog pulleys listed with a 3/16" hole, so opening that up isn't an issue, and I now know what size I'm getting for the motors.
    And for the screw I could go with anything from a 20, 30, 40 or even 60 cog. What's nice is the O.D. of these start at 1.5" and go up to 3.8", so that gives me an idea how much space is needed.
    The prices aren't bad either, the aluminum ones are $7.50 for the 10 cog and up to $17 for the 60 cog, the 20-40 cog are under ten bucks. They also have steel listed from $10-36.
    Now for a question, I see a lot of people running the aluminum gears so I take it they will hold up, but is there any advantage to using steel or is the extra cost even worth it?



    I got an email from Roton with a tracking # for the screws, but it doesn't show up on UPS's site yet.
    "Government is not the solution to our problem, government is the problem" Ronald Reagan

  9. #39
    tired of idiots vz58's Avatar
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    Ive run for years on the alum. The beltss take the wear. I bought spare pulleys and belts when i set up. Never used t he spare pulleys. Ive use maybe 4 belts per axis. If you go with the bigger motors, i doubt youll regret the extra couple dollars. But be sure the gecko and powersupply are compatable. I opened up my pulleys too.

  10. #40
    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    Yeah I was thinking of those 495 oz motors, looks to be the same amp rating as the ones you have. It doesn't say anything about the Gecko drive like the ones you have, I'll make sure to ask before I order them, if they aren't I'll just get the same ones you got.


    Do you still have the spare pulleys (and know where they are )? If you do, and want to part with them, let me know what sizes they are, I might be able to use them if you want to sell 'em.
    "Government is not the solution to our problem, government is the problem" Ronald Reagan

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