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HF Drill/Mill to CNC ?

18K views 152 replies 10 participants last post by  Coils 
#1 · (Edited)
This thread is mostly BS and me asking how to do the conversion, I will do another thread on the actual conversion to cut out the useless info

I have an older model HF drill/mill like this one and I'm thinking about looking into CNC'ing it.
Anyone know where to look for info for doing the conversion? I tried to look around on the cnczone forum but only seen the square column models, and I didn't want to join another forum unless I had to.
I only seen one video for this model on YouTube and a couple companies selling complete kits but I think they're over priced.

I know this model isn't the best to convert but I know it can be done and I don't want to buy another machine
 

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#78 ·
BBill do each of those machines offer the option of either R8 or 3MT, or are they listed seperately for each machine?

R8 collets are mainly used on mills, and that's what I'd get. The collet holds the tool (end mill, fly cutter, ect), they come in many sizes in inch and metric (inch is standard) as small as 1/32 of and inch and I think up to 3/4 or 7/8 of an inch, they also have square & five sided holes for diffenert tools if you find a use for them.
You can find basic info about them on Wiki, just google "R8 collet"

MT is Morse Taper, the number is the size, it seems a #2 & 3 are the most common, so tools for these sizes are easy to find.
A MT is more common for lathes, and I would not buy a mill that has an MT spindle.
Info on these can also be found on Wiki by searching "morse taper"


With doing AR receivers, measure the rough height of one from the bottom of the mag well to the top of that collar the stock screws into (sorry I forget what it is), then add (guessing) like 3 inches to that. Then see how much Z or vertical clearance that mill has, if it's around this or more then that mill should work.


Hope this helps, and please ask if you have any other questions or if I didn't explain it well.
 
#79 ·
Well... the Wholesale Tool mill looked kinda cheesy, so I went to Harbor Freight.
None of the stores in Indy had them-they said to order it. They said in stock.
I called them to see if in stock and they said discontinued. New mini mill was
"New and improved" HA HA. Also 20.00 more. Shipping for the sob is 75.00. I got it because I want to later convert to CNC. Oh yeah..R8 collet. Thanks for your help. Bill
 
#81 ·
The guy on the phone put me on hold while he looked it up. Then I tried with the numbers he gave me and nothing showed uo! I called him back and he ordered it for me. Here's to numbers he gave me.
3004-0135-3MT spindle
3004-0136 R8 spindle
He also said I had to put the 0 in front of 135 or 136 to recognize it. Hell it didn't see it either way! He didn't have any problem. Anyway instead of $599.99 it was $619.
 
#83 ·
No-thats the one they don't have anymore. For something that should be easy to order what a pain. When I tried to order it said in stock. The reason I called was the fine print said made to order and 3-13 weeks. WTF? If I order something I want it now! You get that AR done yet?
 
#85 ·
Yes Some customer rep from Harbor Freight called this morning and said they had a couple-so I called wholesale tool and canceled. HR shipping is only 21.94. But they got me for Ind sales tax. He told me 3-7 working days to get here. Thats the one you have isn't it? Turning it into CNC?
 
#86 ·
Hell, I was going back and forth-WT, HF, Grizzly, Micro Mark... I got myself confused! If that guy from HF hadn't called I would have ended up with one-just not the one I really wanted. Now I'm off to look up a fixture and/or forging for a 308. Just remember if you pick one up-I'll send the fixture to you. Thanks Bill
 
#88 ·
That's cool HF was able to take care of you, that is a good shipping rate, hope the sales tax isn't much in your state.

Thats the one you have isn't it? Turning it into CNC?
I got one of the round column models, there's a pic in the first post. That bases are basically the same on most of these, just different sizes, so you can copy what a lot of people do to convert the X & Y if you deside to.
 
#94 ·
OH ok, I'll have to check that out later.


Well it's been really busy at work the last few weeks, didn't have much time to do much in that time, hopefully I'll get to work on it some more this weekend.
 
#95 ·
Bought a mill stand from WT and put it together. Mill came Tues and after un-crating it I reached down and grabbed ahold of it and swung it up to the stand-as I was leaning over to position it over the mounting holes-at a bad angle. SNAP. Damn- I pulled a muscle in the middle of my back- I damn near pissed my pants. I think it's only 130 lbs-must be getting to be a pansie in my old age.
 
#96 ·
Sure post a positive and negative post :D

Glad to hear you got it and it made it through the rough shipping process
Sorry to hear about the back, I know what you mean though, 4 or 5 years ago I bent over to pick something up from the floor, pulled a muscle in the lower back and had to deal with that for four days. I thought the same thing you did
 
#97 ·
Coils I had to pull my y axis apart. I used 7 spring washers one way and 8 the other (uneven number to get spacing right.) the washers are very very very close to being flat.

As a side note I was cutting UHMW and was told to run water and dishwashing soap as a lubricant.

It promptly stripped away all oil and after sitting a week rusted solid. I had to remove the ball screws and then pry out every damn little ball........
 
#98 ·
Thanks for the info

I had to look up UHMV, what's it usually used for, and how durable is it?

That really sucks about the ball screw & nut. Will you be able to rebuild the nuts or do you have to replace everything?

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Now my update
I pulled the table apart again, hopefully this will be the last time.

Got the temporary stepper motor mounts like 80-90% done, when I get the table back together I'll just need to do the final fitment and line the motors up.

I might have been a little closer to done but I decided (kind of at the last minute) to add an oiler setup with one of those "one shot oilers" and some fittings for the X & Y, think I got a setup for the ball screws too but have to wait until I get the table back on to check those. The main thing I did was got the table setup for the oil delivery fittings, going to install those and the tubing right away, will still need to make a manifold type thing and finish hooking everything up on the outside of the mill.

I should have this all together this weekend, but don't think it will be running until next week, still need the XL belts and don't know the sizes yet, so won't be able to pick these up or have them delivered until sometime during the week.

OH almost forgot, still need to finish setting up Mach3 and figure out how to use it :D
 
#99 ·
UHMW is a very slippery durable plastic. Many uses. I keep some on hand for rapid prototyping but I am also making a hundred parts to sell to the AR crowd.
UHMW is often used under heavy moving parts. Like under heavy logs and the chains that drag thwm on log decks. Super resiliant when used righr and a dream to machine. I never ran water and soap until recently.

I was able to clean the ball nuts but have ordered new balls.

Let me know when you get to the mach IIIII setup.
 
#101 ·
I know it sucks, but glad to hear you only need to buy some balls for your nuts LOL I know that just sounds totally wrong and twisted


I'll ask you more about that UHMW later, I think I know what it is and if it's cheap enough I'd like to mess with it.


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As for the oiler, don't have any pics of mine right now, but I found this stuff on line. Do a search for "one shot oiler" and a few things come up.

This is basicly what I'm doing, but still need to finish the Y ball screw, where he has that flat piece of aluminum is where I'm going to mount the manifold with adjustable valves to control the ammount of oil going to each fitting.

You can see how the two lines go to the Y ways, these are easy because you just find a spot, drill and tap.
The ones for the X were a little harder, I found the area I wanted them and drilled in from the outside, then drilled that hole larger 3/4 or more of the way to get the tap to the inside edge, then tapped the outer hole for a plug, then drilled the oil hole to the ways.
 

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#102 ·
Here's a site that I originally found the info, you'll see the pic above near the bottom of the page.
CNCCookbook: IH Mill One Shot Oiling
I bought a knock off oiler, it looks like his but it's made in china and cost about $50.
I found the elbow fittings and flow valves on ebay for less then half the price of most places.



OH and just thought of this, if you have your table apart, you might want to get the fitting and tubing a while, this way you can install this stuff to the table and leave the tubes hanging out the side until your ready to finish it. That's what I've done, I got tubes hanging out of the left side of my table right now.
 
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