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Thread: Sieg X2 mini mill

  1. #31
    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    Aren't you worried about losing a little Y travel with the X DRO on the back of the table?
    "Government is not the solution to our problem, government is the problem" Ronald Reagan

  2. #32
    Chief Administrator 7.62x39's Avatar
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    Fortunately I was able to mount it high enough that you lose very little, less than 1/2". Still plenty left for receiver work.
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  3. #33
    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    OK, it looks like it was more then that
    "Government is not the solution to our problem, government is the problem" Ronald Reagan

  4. #34
    Gunco Veteran Viper Dude's Avatar
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    Hello 7.62x39,
    Would your CNC mini-mill have sufficient size to carve a milled AK receiver from bar stock ???

    VD in AZ

  5. #35
    Chief Administrator 7.62x39's Avatar
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    Table size, Y and Z axis all more than enough to do it. However the X axis would be very close. An AK receiver is roughly 10-1/4" OAL, X axis is about 10", but if you remove the stop plate, you can squeeze a little more out of it. At worst, you'd have to do 2 set ups.
    Last edited by 7.62x39; 05-31-2013 at 12:29 PM.
    .

  6. #36
    Chief Administrator 7.62x39's Avatar
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    To mount the DRO readout units, I took a piece of angle iron notched it, bent it 90 then welded it up and bolted it to the table. The magnetic backs of the display units hold them in place nicely. I also added a magnetic hook to hold a small clipboard for my notes.
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  7. #37
    Gunco Regular Rocster's Avatar
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    That looks snazzy!! Time to start making chips...?
    "To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk."
    - Thomas Alva Edison
    |> Military training/history DVDs: www.loose-cannon.com/military
    Latest eBook: Build Your Own AK: Vol. II

  8. #38
    Chief Administrator 7.62x39's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rocster View Post
    That looks snazzy!! Time to start making chips...?
    I've finished two already

    http://www.gunco.net/forums/f255/fin...eceiver-73088/
    .

  9. #39
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    The biggest problems I've had with mine over the years have been breaking plastic gears - I read you already have metals so that is probably a non-issue for you... too bad they don't have an easy way to re-lube those gears w/o removal of the head! A drill hole for a snorkel tube of lithium grease would probably not be a bad thing...

    Other issues I've encountered:

    Backlash tends to creep back over time (take it apart, clean and re-zero the components).

    Bearing whine - those sealed bearings do tend to get pretty loud when they go. Seems to go really fast for me because I think I'm over-taxing the equipment. Worth it to get the better gears.

    Table creep, also broken locking handles - buy the "extra special" German locking handles. Worth the extra money.

    Chip management - removed the side "fence" on the table to easily push out extra chips. Should work well with a water cooling attachment.

    Water cooling - WAY too much chatter on this system since it is so small. Can't make it into a Bridgeport, but reducing the cutter size is really about all you can do. Read that water cooling can help with this. So following VZ58's lead I put a washing machine drain pan under mine, and bolted everything down together (plastic tension around bolts prevents leaks). Using a cheap aquarium pump, small bucket, cheap magnet, and fine mesh chicken wire for a water irrigation solution. Halfway done with it. Hose mount is just a garden hose section hanging over the edge of the table. Using antifreeze for now to keep rust issues to a minimum. Problem is the SMALL pump can't pump that high vertically. I have to bring the bucket up closer to the table to make it work. Need the next-size bigger pump. Much can be found researching for computer liquid cooling solutions. Pumps can be found pretty cheap depending on where you look. Some coat hanger twisted to shape can be an adequate holder for the feed hose coming from the aquarium pump. Magnets and chicken wire make for a suitable "filter" to keep the pump from clogging on chips. Locate the pump so that it is above the bottom of the bucket, and have the return hose exit coolant at the bottom of the bucket where the magnets are. Hope all this makes sense as I'm going from memory!

    Good cutters - surprisingly you can find used stuff on ebay where it is still good enough to work for shop use. I guess these big companies use their tools and don't resharpen... not sure. Tried resharpening but never could get it right. You MUST have good cutters otherwise this thing will just waste power and time.

    Machinist Vise - for most of my work I mount the $75 machinist vise directly on the bed, which serves most of my clamping needs. Worth every dime I spent on it.

    Cheap dividable heads can be found, and with the correct collets you can have an affordable index solution for light use.

    Round stock holder - you really need a V-block or something similar to get barrel stuff done right. Just too hard trying to mount a barrel otherwise.


    That's my brain dump for now.


    I would like to find a good CNC solution for this that doesn't require soldering my own PC boards... there are CNC solutions out there for hobby solutions, but run in the thousands of dollars range, making it unattractive to me.

  10. #40
    Chief Administrator 7.62x39's Avatar
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    Good info pookie.
    I was thinking about trying a windshield washer pump. Something like this. Amazon.com: ACI 99300 Windshield Washer Pump: Automotive or maybe some type of aquarium pump. The WW pump is nice because it already has the reservoir attached. Either way I would add a flow control valve from an aquarium set up.

    I got a vise in this tooling package I bought from LMS, along with the end mills, collets, parallels, 1-2-3 blocks, center drills, edge finder and clamping kit.
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