Sand Blast Cabinet, Who has them? What do you have?
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Thread: Sand Blast Cabinet, Who has them? What do you have?

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    GuncoHolic yosuthnmasa's Avatar
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    Default Sand Blast Cabinet, Who has them? What do you have?

    I'm at the point that I'm ready to buy a blast cabinet so that I can strip and then parkerize my kits and receivers. I took a trip to the local Harbor Freight this afternoon and was a little disappointed at the price and quality of the cabinets they had. I did a little googling and found some that would do the job, but figured I'd ask you guys first since you may already have one that you're pleased/not pleased with. If possible, it would be nice to know what you're using as far as the brand and price, as well as the size. Also, what size air compressor do you use and do you have a filter setup in your cabinet to get rid of dust? What grit do you normally use? Do you use sand or glass beads?

    Your help would be greatly appreciated!

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    Administrator pirate56's Avatar
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    I have a HF, got it for $69.00, they are $99. now. I use #80 grit aluminum oxide, glass beads aren't abrasive enough, they peen, not cut. You need at least 8 cfm to blast.
    It is not a professional setup, but for doing a few guns it works.

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    Gunco Member alfajim's Avatar
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    Same as pirate56 but have the $299 model. I also use the 80 and 60 grit abrasive, I just use and old shop vac for pulling dust out of the cabinet. My compressor well it is huge and will run anything.
    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=39170

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    Gunco Good ole boy kernelkrink's Avatar
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    I use a friends setup he has left over from his gunsmithing days. Kinda pricey but it works great. It's a SkatBlast from TIP. Either glass beads or 80 grit abrasive. (clarke? brand from TSC)

    skatblast catalog link

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    Gunco Member Foobarr's Avatar
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    Northern Tool bench top:
    http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...33803&R=333803

    Not bad but the sand stacks up in the corners as the hopper is too shallow. Compensated by tossing in another bucket of sand.

    Started with the medium glass bead that had "great for gun barrels" on the sticker. It was pretty slow going and eventually cranked up the PSI to about 120.
    http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...74&R=200136774

    then I gave the Black Beauty jagged glass a try. It didn't feed very well through the pick-up tube nor slide down into the hopper very well. So I dumped in the Medium glass bead and now have a hybrid mix.
    http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...24&R=200022824

    I run around 60-70 PSI and the Black beauty glass really eats through the gunk and with the glass bead smoothing out the texture. When I crank it up to 100 PSI I get a rougher/tactical texture.

    If I had to start over, I'd probably just use the 80 grit aluminum/oxide that Pirate reccomends.

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    GuncoHolic yosuthnmasa's Avatar
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    Boy, thanks guys for all the info. My question is for the harbor freight guys with the smaller $69 specials. How well can you actually blast the gun? Can you do a barreled receiver, or just a barrel at a time? Also, do you guys with the smaller ones have a filter setup too? How many horsepower do you recommend for the compressor?

    Last, if there was one thing you could do differently with your setup if you did it again, what would it be? size, brand, price, etc.

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    Gunco Veteran Toten Kopf's Avatar
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    yosuthnmasa...

    Just remember to only blast "CLEANED" parts. If the parts have grease/oil or what ever it will contaminate the blasting media which will imbed into the metal your cleaning/blasting. This can/will cause problems with the overall finish and can/will contaminate the phosphating solution.

    Also, I was told that if you phosphate springs, the solution will cause the springs to crystallize which will cause them to crack/break. Taking this word as gospel, I have never phosphated springs so I don't know if this is true. I remove all springs, muzzle brake pin spring, magazine catch spring and the like.

    Plug all barrel holes (I use wood dowels) even if the barrel has a chrome bore, and the most important thing, immediately after phosphating, place the part in boiling water (this prevents white-out).

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    GuncoHolic yosuthnmasa's Avatar
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    TK, thanks for all the reminders. White out? I assume that the finish turns white a bit...putting it in boiling water helps it to go from being really hot to a cooler temperature slower? And I've read to immediately put the part in oil for around 24 hrs to prevent flash rust.

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    Gunco Veteran Toten Kopf's Avatar
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    After I put the part in boiling water for about 1 minute, I pull it out, then let it dry (doesn't take long). I then coat it with CLP. Haven't had any problem with rust.

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    Administrator pirate56's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yosuthnmasa
    Boy, thanks guys for all the info. My question is for the harbor freight guys with the smaller $69 specials. How well can you actually blast the gun? Can you do a barreled receiver, or just a barrel at a time? Also, do you guys with the smaller ones have a filter setup too? How many horsepower do you recommend for the compressor?

    Last, if there was one thing you could do differently with your setup if you did it again, what would it be? size, brand, price, etc.

    it blasts as good as any, however it has steel nozzles not carbide or ceramic, so they wear out fast, but for a couple bucks they are cheap to replace. it is a small cabinet, it will do bbls etc, it is not as nice as a $300.00 one but for occasional use it is worth every penny of $69.00 I got a $15.00 flourescent drop light to light it and don't use a vac for dust. if you use alum oxide it is not real dusty. a 50 lb bag costs about $40.00 and lasts longer than sand or beads as long as you don't contaminate it with grease or oil.

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