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Thread: Spot welder lower tong mods

  1. #21
    Gunco Member davidrriley's Avatar
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    This is great infomation. I just ordered a harbor freight 230 volt spot welder on sale for $159.00
    I have not received it yet. Do anyone know if the tong is the same size on this model? Also if a 3 second weld time is good on the 115 volt model do you think a 2 second weld time would be about right for the 230 volt model?

  2. #22
    Chief Administrator 7.62x39's Avatar
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    Fal,

    Check reply #18. twostupidogs got one from HF for $12
    He even supplied the part number.
    .

  3. #23
    Gunco Member Bullet's Avatar
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    Would it be a problem using a steel rod and the copper tip? AS the steel rods are available at the hardware store?

  4. #24
    Gunco Member keiser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bullet
    Would it be a problem using a steel rod and the copper tip? AS the steel rods are available at the hardware store?
    If you do this, I doubt if you get as good a weld as a copper rod. Mainly because copper and steel conduct heat differently. It is really amazing how quickly a copper rod gets hot. Even just filing on one will make it get warm. If both rods were steel, you would at least get the same heat transfer. They don't use copper just cause it is pretty looking!!

  5. #25
    Chief Administrator 7.62x39's Avatar
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    Keiser,

    I think it has more to do with copper's ability to conduct electricity, rather than heat.
    But as far as the bottom line, I think you are correct, I would not mix them.
    .

  6. #26
    Gunco Rookie Head Tomcat's Avatar
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    Default I Used the spot welder on my Sten SMG....

    I have been lurking here for several weeks and took the general advice to get the Harbor Freight 110VAC spot welder while it is on sale. In short...this thing works great!

    The tongs were modifed as mentioned earlier in this message series so they would fit into my 1.36" ID 4130 chromoly tubing. After practicing on several pieces of old tubing I held my breath and started to attach the legally registered Erb tube to my Sten MkV trigger box. The factory back in 1945 spot welded their tubing to the box and it sure looks "more professional" than their old way (when building the MkII and III) of bead welding it with a gas outfit.

    The welds all came out perfect with no splatter, surface eruptions, etc. In fact, I used the old spot welds as a guide to place the new ones in. The tube is now solidly anchored in place and it looks totally factory in every sense of the word. The only difference is the factory spot welds were about 1/8-1/4" in diameter and my welds are a bit smaller than this...in fact, they are the size of the tips of the tongs. I actually prefer it this way so no one like ATF would think I had an old Sten and am trying to "cover it up"...these new spot welds are much more attractive, logically placed, and more uniform than the factory could ever do.

    What has this got to do with AK's? A lot!

    I bought a KVAR 5.45x39.5 Krinkov kit last year and now plan to build my own registered SBR Krink by using as a basis the Global Trades 1.6mm shell. This ought to be fun!

    The Tom

    PS: For timing, I simply counted a slow "1-2-Break". After switching off the power I left the tongs clamped on for another 2 seconds before removing them. I think the additional clamping did a lot to improve the solidity and appearance of the spot welds. Also, is is VERY worthwhile to take the additional 30-45 minutes to properly set up the welder before you actually do any work. Get the tong pressure, alignment of the tips, the rear adjusting screw, etc. all worked out ahead of time. The actual welding is then fairly anti-climactic...other than your heart racing.

  7. #27
    Gunco Veteran AKaTom's Avatar
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    Great first post Head Tomcat. I'd sure like to see a picture of that Sten!

  8. #28
    Gunco Member Bullet's Avatar
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    Ok I've bought the 115 volt spot welder. I used a 5/8 steel rod to make a tong and used the orginal copper tip. I can say it works well. I did a test weld on two overlapping shelf dividers and bent them it in a U and them bent it it back the other way again forming a U. The weld heald with no problem. I have to say this spot welding is very strong. the steel rod heated up more (not a large amount) than the copper tong. Must be because the steel doesn't conduct as well and has more resistance.

  9. #29
    Gunco Rookie mgwantob's Avatar
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    7.62x39, what is the thread size for the copper tips on the tongs?

  10. #30
    Gunco Veteran ohmysac's Avatar
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    hmmm...maybe you could use aluminum, isnt aluminum more conductive than steel?

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