It doesn't really matter.
I used .375 as indicated above, but all measurements given are ID, so they wont change no matter what thickness you use.
My first prototype was .500 but that was overkill. The 100+ that were sold, were all .375
Thanks for the help. I did not see the dimension for the metal thickness. I have been in the shadows looking around the site. I have two builds planned for this year. One is a Romy sidefolder and the other is a Polish U/F. The site has been a great source of info for me.
I built this jig per blue print and discovered it would not fit the triger guard mag catch retaining pin. I had to cut off one end and mill slots in each side to accomidaye the pin. I am leaving the end off so the triger guard can be slid in from the back . I made the fixture from .750
The inside dimension can be increased to .690" for additional clearance for the retaining pin. You may still need to shorten some of the pins, I do this in the vice. I would also recomend using a 5/16" ball end mill .100" deep to help prevent forming "half-moons" on the rivet heads.
With these two mods, the rivet head dimples will extend into the gap and leave a small part unsupported, but I have found that it doesn't cause any noticeable marking on the rivet head.
I'm planning on making one of these jigs this weekend. I was wondering if anyone has made one using the changes to the dimples sizes that plinker762 suggested. If so, how
were the results?
It depends on what rivets you are using. The 9/32 works best with US made rivets (5/32) like Mcmaster -Carr. The 5/16 works best with the metric rivets like the ones from the 1-PAT group buys. Either will do the job though.
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