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Thread: Homemade heattreat oven

  1. #21
    rbthntr64's Avatar
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    For $16 I think that damaged coils is really a non-issue. The 2 1/2 years I worked at Sierra, they never had to replace a coil. I am getting a kiln to do heat treating of metal for my personal builds. It had been sitting in my moms garage for about 20 years.
    Freedom is not free. Some will perish to preserve it for the many. Just as our Forefathers did before us, we must take up the battle and not waver. Victory is our only option.

  2. #22
    Gunco Regular twistedneck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rbthntr64
    For $16 I think that damaged coils is really a non-issue. The 2 1/2 years I worked at Sierra, they never had to replace a coil. I am getting a kiln to do heat treating of metal for my personal builds. It had been sitting in my moms garage for about 20 years.
    OK, i don't think its the 16 bucks your worried about. more like the wasted parts that got f'd up from being in a broken oven, or bad temper or what ever.. break all the elements you want

  3. #23
    rbthntr64's Avatar
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    Good point. I didn't think about the parts that get F'd up. My reply was not meant as a flame. Sorry if I offended you.
    Freedom is not free. Some will perish to preserve it for the many. Just as our Forefathers did before us, we must take up the battle and not waver. Victory is our only option.

  4. #24
    Gunco Regular Tailgunner's Avatar
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    I see the reducing problem as more of an opportunity, such work is better suited to a gas or coal fired forge and I don't need much of an excuse to build one of those anyway. I took a class on operating a power hammer early last year and would love to try my hand at forging knives and such.

  5. #25
    Gunco Regular twistedneck's Avatar
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    rbthntr64, cool man! my flame is retracted

    A lot of times those commercial electric ovens use huge rods that don't have issues with depleted oxide layer.

    Here is a great write up on how to save your elements

    http://www.potters.org/subject16150.htm

    And don't forget, those elements are part of live circuit and can kill you if touched, so in general, turn off the kiln right before you pull the parts out.

  6. #26
    Gunco Regular Tailgunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by twistedneck
    And don't forget, those elements are part of live circuit and can kill you if touched, so in general, turn off the kiln right before you pull the parts out.
    The commercial kilns have an interlock switch that cuts power to the elements when the door is opened. Planning on doing the same when I assemble mine.

  7. #27
    Gunco Veteran panaceabeachbum's Avatar
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    the bottom plate and sides of my kiln are welded up solid but the top portion is just held in place with 4 little spots of weld, top can be removed in less time than it would take to loosen the bands on a convintenal kiln.
    just measured the wire with a starret micrometer and it is measuring .045 on the dot, alot more accurate than my earlier HF caliper measurements. apologies for confusion on wire size

  8. #28
    Gunco Veteran gunnysmith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by twistedneck
    I just glued two bricks end to end, cut it to 11" long and dug out a channel that the receiver sits in. kiln elements are on the side walls so they dont over radiate the part.

    This also helps keep the heat in when you transfer it to the quench.
    What did you use to "glue" the bricks together?
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  9. #29
    Gunco Regular twistedneck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gunnysmith
    What did you use to "glue" the bricks together?
    Kiln brick cement.. you can order it from any of the kiln or ceramic supply shops.

    holds up very well.

  10. #30
    Gunco Veteran gunnysmith's Avatar
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    Thanks
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