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Thread: spot welder

  1. #11
    Gunco Member FordGalaxy's Avatar
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    Oops that was sort of a joke.

    Myself and just about all of the folks I talk to here are electricians. As for the cord catching on fire, I hate it when the wire ends up being the fusable link in a circut.

    All kidding aside even a skinny #14, 100' cord will not drop enough voltage to make much of a difference in how many amps the welder will pull. I plug mine into a 15 amp plug strip with the rest of the stuff on my bench. I did pop the breaker once when I filed the tip on the upper tong to get a bigger weld spot, the little spots work just as well they just don't look as good. The higher watt dimmers aren't cheap but one of 2400 watts or higher on the line side of the welder should let you control the one of these little spot welders. For as short as the heat cycle is on these welders you might even get by with a 1800 watt dimmer. check Lutrons web site.

    While it is possable to fry a cord, if your wireing is ok and you don't have any pennys in your fuse box, the breaker should trip long before the fire starts. Well at least thats the theory anyways.

  2. #12
    Gunco Good ole boy tanvil's Avatar
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    I bought Curtis' lower tong with the screw in tip, for my harbor freight spot welder. It works great but I've burned it out. Does any one know where to get the lower tips? He doesn't have replacement tips listed.

  3. #13
    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    Man what did you do to it?
    You should be able to regrind the tip if that's what you burned out.

  4. #14
    Gunco Good ole boy tanvil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coils
    Man what did you do to it?
    You should be able to regrind the tip if that's what you burned out.
    O.K. If you ask a question like that, it tells me that I'm doing something wrong. I'm running it on a 100 foot cord off of the 20 amp recepticle that I wired to the shed. I have been letting the red circle grow till it stops speading ( 3/4''-1'') and then releasing the trigger. Each time, the tip melted a little. I thought maybe this was normal. I dress it with a file, let it cool and then use it again. The tip is now pretty small and useless after 5 builds. Several times while a spot weld was sitting on the table cooling, I would hear a loud ''tink'' and find that the weld popped apart. My clamps suck and I think I might have the tongs ajusted too tight, and kinda using them as a clamp. What do you think?

  5. #15
    Gunco Good ole boy kernelkrink's Avatar
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    Too long an extension cord, the power is dropping so much you are not getting a good weld. The heat is not being localised at the weld, everything else (like the whole tip) is also heating up. Not good.

    When you have enough power the spotweld heats to red within a second or so, holding it more than say 4 seconds should result in the weld overheating and a chunk of metal will spit out of the weld leaving an ugly spot. The trick is to learn how to estimate the time required to get a good weld while avoiding the spit.

    Some people have a very short run of wire between the main drop line to the home and their outlet, these people get a about a half second window between good weld and spit. They can add a short heavy duty extension cord to soak up some of the power to extend that window to say a whole second, but 100 feet of extension cord is way too much.

    I've made dozens of spotwelds with my home modified jaws using the stock tip, never had to dress it more often than every two=three receivers done. I do hit it one swipe with a piece of 400 grit between sides to shine it up a bit, but actually filing it to clean it is not needed.

    BTW, Curtis lists replacement lower tong tips right below the button you use to buy his lower tong.

  6. #16
    Gunco Good ole boy tanvil's Avatar
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    Ha! Thankyou, it's been taking between 3-5 seconds for the metal to turn red. And your right, the entire lower tip is glowing brght red when I release it. I'll plug it in direclty to the outlet and see what I get. Last night I took the time to modify the original lower arm and tip so I could still biuld while finding a new one. I'll place an order with Curtis tomorrow for a new one and other supplies. Thanks again!

  7. #17
    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    Sorry if my other post sounded rude.
    But I never heard of anyone burning one out before.
    I hope the extension cord thing is the problem like Kernal said.

  8. #18
    Gunco Good ole boy tanvil's Avatar
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    Coils! No, I didn't take it as rude at all. I'm glad you put it the way you did because then I realized that I had problems. I reground the factory orig., plugged it straight in and lo and behold, you guys were a great help because it's not glowing this time around. Thanks to you and Kernelkrink I am back in action. Now my problem is that I need a new kit. Maybe a Polish underfolder. Harrisburg is this weekend, ya goin'?

  9. #19
    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    That's good, I went back and reread my post and thought you might have taken it the wrong way.
    Glad it's working better now.



    Harrisburg is this weekend, ya goin'?
    Oh yeah, Saturday morning, I don't think I've missed a Harrisburg show since '04.

    To bad I'm broke this time

  10. #20
    Stickerman's Avatar
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    I posted the tips on my website on the same page that the tong is on.

    http://ak-builder.com/ak/modules.php...howpage&pid=32

    When I get some other projects done on my CNC lathe I'll make some tong extensions for the Homier welders. I've made a prototype and it worked, but time is what I don't have so it will be a while until I mess with them.
    http://www.ak-builder.com

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