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Thread: My new/old Johnson heat treating oven

  1. #11
    Gunco Veteran tony's Avatar
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    No s#!t, I use to dove hunt there. My ole' man probably knows him or someone he knows...ya know
    IF YOU RUN, YOU'LL ONLY DIE TIRED

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    Gunco Maniac sjohnson's Avatar
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    You're beginning to sound like an old tool & die man I know near Lincoln, Nebraska.

    Old school rigger and made a bundle doing specialized work during the heyday of tool & die making. He travels the U.S. looking for good old american iron, beat up but not put away wet.

    Takes it back to Lincoln where he completely renews the piece, rebeds and resets it and makes sure it works perfectly. Then goes and hunts up another. Last time I visited his place, he had a two acre Morton Steel building about 3/4 full of operating equipment, most of which is unique or rare.

  3. #13
    Gunco Regular JRIVEN00's Avatar
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    Looks like a nice oven 180,000=1.8 gallons of LP per hour its burning(heating up). You can probably make it work with a 100# cylinder if you're only doing small jobs but a 120 gallon tank if you want a supplier to keep you filled. They're not going to run a bobtail getting 4 MPG to give you 23.5 gallons every couple of days. But if you don't mind taking the tank to them a 100#der will work. Did you get the regulators with it?

  4. #14
    Always sore, always tired Bradrock's Avatar
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    I believe the regulators would be inside the control console. Along with a blower. I have not looked yet, as it is all still banded to the pallet.
    My wife suggested that I just run a gas line from our 250 gallon tank for the house furnace.
    At $2.60 a gallon, I won't be doing much with this oven for awhile. Prices usually go back down some in the summer & we pre-buy for the winter.
    I'm really just a tool junkie & when I looked this oven up and found out they cost over $11,000 currently new, I could not pass it up at $299.00
    I suppose it's like the dishwasher.....in that it's most economical to do a full load. Rather than run a cycle for one knife blade or bolt head.
    I now need to expand my knowledge of heat treating & I know the answers are right here on Gunco.
    I've been wanting to build a small foundry furnace for years & I believe I could use this same control unit ( regulators , blower, pyrometer) on a crucible type furnace. I say that because Johnson sells them also.
    " Save a tree...........Eat A Beaver!"

  5. #15
    Gunco Regular JRIVEN00's Avatar
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    Look at the data plate. It will tell you either 10-11" WC (water column) or 3-10 PSI. You can connect it to your 250 but be sure your supply pressure is correct. It's rare for the actual regulators to be shipped with the unit. Red regulators are high pressure, usually 10 PSI and brown,grey, green,tan,are low pressure. I'd bet that oven is low pressure. Check with the seller he can tell you best. The flare connector is 1/2 inch in the photo so like I said its probably 11"wc. And it probably burns less gas than you think, I'd guess less than 5 gallons for anything you might be doing.

  6. #16
    Always sore, always tired Bradrock's Avatar
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    JRIVENOO; I sure appreciate the info! I'll go check the plate. It's 33 degrees & raining.....May be a little while.
    " Save a tree...........Eat A Beaver!"

  7. #17
    Always sore, always tired Bradrock's Avatar
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    here's the inside of the control consol. I can identify the blower, shutoff solenoid & a big transformer for the spark plug.

    There is a box on the side that I believe is an infra red safety?It does say 11WC for the LP.





    Here it is in the shop.:




    P.S. It sure is handy having a front end loader!
    " Save a tree...........Eat A Beaver!"

  8. #18
    Gunco Regular JRIVEN00's Avatar
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    Thats what I thought it would look like. The part next to the blower is the vacuum switch. The regulator there is not for pressure regulation, it acts as a saftey in the event the actual tank regulator fails. It slams shut to protect the solenoid valve and other components from tank pressure. It also prevents the explosions that really hurt the LP industry The part on the oven itself is probably the flame sensor. You can hook it to a 20# grill tank to test it but the tank will probably ice up because the unit is pulling too many BTU, especially with the cold weather you're having. Not enough wetted surface with a 20, blah blah. It will work off a 100# cylinder though if hooking it up to the 250 you have is too involved. I'm a Master Gas Fitter I'll be glad to help you any way I can, let me know Jim oh, remember don't use a high pressure regulator use a single stage or integral two stage you can pick them up on ebay for 20-30 bucks

  9. #19
    Always sore, always tired Bradrock's Avatar
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    The male gas inlet is a 3/4" male compression fitting. I'm not finding a regulator with 3/4" fittings on Ebay ( Or a hose to the tank).. Other than this one which is a " second stage"
    I don't understand where the " first" stage would be.:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/SHERWOOD-LP-GAS-...QQcmdZViewItem
    " Save a tree...........Eat A Beaver!"

  10. #20
    Gunco Regular JRIVEN00's Avatar
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    The inlet side of the solonoid valve has the appliance regulator then 3/4" pipe. Where it exits the control box is where the gas inlet is. You can adapt the 3/4 pipe to 1/2" flare there, post a picture of the inlet. The compression fitting you're talking about must be where the control box connects to the oven itself. That line carries the gas air mix for the burner. Look for a Rego LV404B4 or LV404B9 integral two stage regulator. A first stage regulator allows you to supply gas from a distance with smaller pipe, its usually a 10 PSI regulator. Then you install a 2nd stage regulator (like the one on ebay) to reduce to operating pressure (11"wc). Say your tank is 40' from your house I'd run 1/2" copper from the tank with a first stage regulator, then I'd knock the pressure down to 11"wc and supply the appliances. I can run 1/2" copper because the line is at 10 PSI otherwise at 11"wc the whole distance I'd have to run 1 1/2" which gets expensive. As far as connceting the oven to the tank use 1/2" copper. You adapt the outlet of the regulator to that size and the 3/4" inlet of the oven to the same. Use flare fittings, compression fittings aren't legal for supply lines. You can only use compression fittings after the control valve and thats generally factory not field.

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