Rookie Problem with CETME
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Thread: Rookie Problem with CETME

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    Collector & Enthusiast GreenBlood10's Avatar
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    Default Rookie Problem with CETME

    Greetings everyone! I am a new member to Gunco.net and also a new owner of a Century Arms CETME. Before I bought the rifle I did a lot of research and was well aware of all the problems CAI CETME have had. When I went and checked it out everything looked decent and was said to be almost brand new. Took it to the range yesterday for the first time since owning it and loaded the magazine slapped the cocking lever down loaded the round flawlessly. Fired great, but didn't eject the shell. I had to manually cock the lever after every shot. Is this a wearing in type issue? I also stripped the rifle when I got home to clean it and looked at the bolt gap, and either there isn't one or it is extrememly small. I don't have a feeler guage to get an exact measurement but could this be the problem as well? I only shot 20 rounds through the rifle, because the more I shot it the more I was worried about the gap. I took a picture of what the bolt looked like after every shot. I placed the pitures as an attachment. Any help would be appreciated.
    As a side note I also wanted to ask what kind of ammunition works best in this rifle. I was using American Eagle .308 ammunition at the range. Also anything else you think a new CETME owner should know would be great! Thanks
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    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    At first I'd say your ammo isn't loaded hot enough to kick the bolt/carrier back. Since the rifle is delayed blowback you are going to need something hot enough to cycle it.

    HOWEVER I would wonder if the chamber has any deformations/galling etc. that would grab the case and prevent a smooth extraction. You can look at your brass and youd should be able to see if there's any scratches on it. You don't say if it was difficult extracting by hand, which is a sign the case isn't properly extracting.


    Also you may look at the ejector to see if it is rounded or otherwise deformed. If so, you would need to cut it down, weld a piece of 4130 steel to the front, and dremel it down to the proper shape. You could try just welding a big bead of metal but the welding metal is softer than 4130 so you'll find it won't hold up as well over the long term, even after heat treating. You'll most likely have to repaint the receiver since that amount of heat will probably affect the paint.
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    Collector & Enthusiast GreenBlood10's Avatar
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    Sorry about that. It was easier to cock the lever back after shooting the round than it usually is. As far as markings on the case, after shooting there was a lot of residue (mix between oil and powder) and on the case there were vertical stripes on the shells. They would wipe off though. Not sure if this is helping or not. Thanks

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    Gunco Member ShuckersFan's Avatar
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    You need to clean the chamber/flutes and make sure there is no oil in the chamber. Does the brass have actual ridges in it where it swelled into the chamber flutes. Yo uwant to find some mil surplus ammo to shoot of steel cased stuff. American Eagle is really soft brass and it may be swelling up in the chamber and sticking. If you cycle rounds by hand, will they eject? Obviously be very careful with live ammo. If I cycle my CETMEs by hand, it will chuck a loaded round about 15' across the room with a good tug on the cocking lever.

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    Collector & Enthusiast GreenBlood10's Avatar
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    The brass didn't have actual ridges on it just residue of the flute markings that I could wipe off. Where can I get mil surplus ammo online? There arent many gun stores around me that sell anything other than .308. When I cycle the round by hand it chucks the casing a pretty good distance. One or twice I did eject a live round, but after having to do it everytime I wasnt sure when it was going to put a live one in and when it wouldnt cycle. Hope this helps.

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    BANNED nalioth's Avatar
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    Commercial .308 is usually hotter than military spec 7.62x51.

    The only problem with commercial ammo is that the case is thinner than milspec and can be ripped apart during the ejection cycle of the Cetme/G3 rifles.

    Clean your chamber very very well, as the monkeys are known for their leavings. . .

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    Gunco Good ole boy kernelkrink's Avatar
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    First off, you need to get the lack of bolt gap fixed, it is a measurement of the roller system wear and none is beyond spec. Looks like the bolt is only coming back far enough to partially unlatch the carrier from the bolt, this would explain the easier to cock after firing. Is the bbl an original CETME or a US made replacement? Some of the aftermarket bbls have the chamber flutes cut improperly and have failures to extract.

    Ammo may be underpowered, try a different brand once you get the bolt gap corrected.

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    Always sore, always tired Bradrock's Avatar
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    "Is the bbl an original CETME or a US made replacement? Some of the aftermarket bbls have the chamber flutes cut improperly and have failures to extract.
    "

    That was my first thought & I have read posts of this happening & the reason many preffer the original barrels.
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    Collector & Enthusiast GreenBlood10's Avatar
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    From what I understood everything was original except the receiver. Maybe I just need to sit down for a couple of hours and pay close attention to cleaning the chamber and flute area.

  10. #10
    Gunco Good ole boy kernelkrink's Avatar
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    In order to be legally sold in this country a certain number of foreign made parts have to be swapped out with US made ones, IIRC a CETME has 17 countable parts. You are only allowed 10 foreign made ones, so Century replaced 7 parts with US made ones. For the last couple of years importers have had to torch cut the bbl before import is allowed, if Century is building them off a recent kit import they would have to replace the bbl regardless. Dunno as they are, but your problem is a common one with aftermarket bbls.

    Too small a bolt gap can also cause this problem. Be aware Century has in the past simply ground some material off the rear of the bolt to artificially simulate a wider bolt gap, make sure they understand that you do not consider this a proper correction if you send it back. A set of +4 rollers may fix the gap problem, around $20-25.

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