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Thread: AK.45 Update? Rhino?

  1. #11
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    very nice. have any shots of the bolt/carrier and trunion areas? want to do some thing in 9mm like that. stared at a pile of sunami parts for over 4 hours last night.

  2. #12
    Master Endmill Breaker Rhino_66's Avatar
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    I think I've got some pics somewhere on here...

    AK.45 bolt revisted (and showing off my new camera)

    More work on .45ACP conversion.

    AK.45 Conversion update (minor)

    AK.45 Receiver work

    AK.45 Receiver Work (Part Deux)

    AK.45 Bolt/Carrier Update

    Another AK.45 update

    AK.45 Receiver assembly, barrel installation, and barrel blocks (PICS ADDED!!)

    AK.45 is ALMOST finished...

    AK.45 IS FUNCTIONAL!!!!! (sort of)....

    AK.45 Ejection update

    AK.45 Ejection Problem Solved

    To prevent any problems like I had with the magazine placement, clamp your parts to a jig and test the feeding before welding anything together.

    If you space the mag too far back, there is a good chance the round could flip sideways and jam between the breech face and bolt. Too close, and the round will jam between the breech and feed lips of the mag. This might not be as much of a problem with 9mm, but .45ACP is a nice short fat round and doesn't like steep feed angles.

    SangRun Hunter is working on a 9mm conversion using Suomi parts, too. Do a search for 9mm with SangRun as the author.


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  3. #13
    Master Endmill Breaker Rhino_66's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cephus
    Do it shoot more than once at a time now ,and did ya get the mag thing worked out ,or do ya have to fab them all !!!
    Yes, I can now shoot more than one round at a time...

    The mag clearance issue will be resolved when I cut this receiver up and rebuild the rifle. When I rebuild it, I'll fix the magwell spacing so unmodified magazines will work.

    The mag catch seems to be working a little smoother too. I think it just needed to wear in a little. It's not perfect, but I'll be fixing it soon.


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  4. #14
    Gunco Member aloharover's Avatar
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    Rhino,
    thanks for posting up the list of threads for the entire build.
    Started reading this during my daughters 3am feeding and here I am 4 hours later still going over it all. Some things I had to read twice, bbut it all makes perfect sense to me now.
    I always thought you had to have some sort of a locking feature for a blowback, like the barrel link set up in a 1911 or HK roller delay. I didn't realise you could use mass as the delay. Love the idea of replacing the piston with a threaded weight. Guess it could be made "long" and then just keep trimming it until everything works.

    Questions:
    with this type of blowback design does overall barrel length effect cycling?
    What about a registered can?
    Thinking about a threaded adapter so you could stick a USP .45 supressor on the end.

    Pete
    U.S. Army (Ret)
    NRA for Life

  5. #15
    Master Endmill Breaker Rhino_66's Avatar
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    The threaded rod as a weight is not very agreeable with the Rear Sight Block. The angle required to insert the carrier into the receiver jams the weight rod against the opening of the RSB. This could be remedied by turning down a section of the rod to allow for clearance. This is one of my intended improvements I will test when I rebuild the rifle.

    I used brand new recoil and hammer springs for my build. The new springs are definitely stiffer than the old ones. Substituting a different recoil spring could also delay blowback. Mike from ORF used a HK G91 recoil spring to for his 9mm version.

    Barrel length does affect cycling, but I did not do the math to see what difference it would make. The semi-auto Thompson uses blowback and a 16.5" barrel and functions just fine. By delaying blowback, more energy will be transferred to the projectile. That should improve distance and accuracy.

    If you plan on threading the barrel, there is enough meat to cut threads like a 1911 threaded barrel. Just don't thin it too much...


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  6. #16
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    WOW I guess you do have some pictures! great camera work the gray paint idea is super. I would have paid for info like this. I did not read all the posts under each picture yet. Do you have a floating firing pin still? like how you did the Mag well. I will want to use a drum on the 9mm project. I have seen some of Sangs posts on his AK/sunomi plans. It nice that most of this Calibur conversion stuff is in the same place now. I normally did not look were you first posted this origanly. great work. would a lead filled guide tube add enough mass to slow down cycling? just thinking here

  7. #17
    Gunco Member pacomdiver's Avatar
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    great another project to build

  8. #18
    Gunco Member pacomdiver's Avatar
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    man you guys suck, another build for the list, im gonna go broke funding all these new toys

  9. #19
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    man you guys suck, another build for the list, im gonna go broke funding all these new toys
    Yea check the dates when these posts were made kits were under $100 then. now a guy thinks twice to use a $200+ kit to build a blow back pistol. price of kits has really slowed me down on the custom pistol thing. before it was ok need a $65 dollar donner kit and a barrrel from this and a part from that. Now itrs like F!@#K that I aint using a super rare valubale Rommy kit to hack it up into a pistol. I may sell a couple of my last kits and just buy what I wanted already done. I cant belive the prices of sunomies. now they are over $100 so to build a sunomi barreld AK you are looking at 300+ just in kits to make the thing out of.

  10. #20
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    Holy Thread Resurrections Batman!

    Rhino, I wanted to pick your brain about the barrel components. I've read the threads and realize you didn't actually pin your barrel components, rather you silver soldered them on - correct? A few questions -

    I'm comparing this for my .45 Winchester Magnum (a LONG .45 ACP) and will face the same issues you did with the barrel diameter. I plan to repeat the process for my .45-70 barrel as well.

    I have arrived at the conclusion that I will be either cutting some tubing and welding the barrel parts onto the tube, or reaming and re-drilling the pin holes on the original parts.

    Now, since the experience I had with the .308 gas block, I know that I can make the bas block TOO thin - there won't be enough metal and it will crack under the pressure. SO, I will probably do the weld-on thing with the tubing. The extra meat around the gas block is my main concern.

    The front sight isn't too big a worry, I think. If I can re-drill the cross pin holes, I can make that one thinner since it really doesn't need much. I'll weld over the original pin holes and smooth it down.

    Can you post a photo of the gas block? Is there enough room above the pin holes to have re-drilled them?
    Gunco Member #10

    http://pookieweb.net


    The "original" Boltcutter Rivet Squeezers:
    http://pookieweb.net/AK/rivet/boltcutters/boltcutter.htm


    Project Pink - the Pink and Blue AK-74:
    http://pookieweb.net/pink/pink.htm

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