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Reinvent the Antelope

2K views 15 replies 5 participants last post by  pupwag 
#1 ·
Scored a Saiga 308 bolt/carrier,recoil assy and top cover.Preliminary noodling reveals that with narrowing of the bolt lugs .025 on a side and a 74 bullet guide in a Yugo trunnion and ejector tab moved rearward it might work and provide the 3 lug factor(more like 2.something).Basically making a Saiga(antelope)but more fun than chopping one and more knowledge gained that may apply to 308 cased based conversions.More measuring to do but it is in the overcapacity pipeline at least.
 
#2 ·
Good Luck.

I plan on using a Yugo RPK parts kit and a Coldsteel Solutions receiver blank to build my .308. I will shorten and lighten the barrel before re-chambering it.

I figure on moving the front trunion 1/4 to 5/16 inch forward, and installing the crossbrace about the same amount rearward. I figure this will provide enough room for a .308 Galil magazine.

Time will tell if I am right.

BTW, now I know what happened to the parts missing from the .308 barreled Saiga receivere I purchased.
 
#3 · (Edited)
The Saiga bolt has the same rear lug face to firing pin length as 47/74,top cover is the same length.So all the fcg location and rec OAL will be the same.)Ejector hook contact point looks like ~.450 rear of stock(make new ejector rail).Don't know yet if the triggerguard/grip may need to go back a tiny bit.Edit to ad......I do now.Back it goes.Hadn't thought of Galil,I'll look for one to throw into the mix.Thanks.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Cope's has some new 12 round Galil .308 magazines for (I believe) $19.95 each.

In case you didn't already know, the Saiga is based on the AK-74 series of rifles. I am not positive that the saiga bolt will work with a Yugo front trunion.

I used AK-74 parts to bring my Saiga barrelled receiver back to a fully functioning rifle.
 
#5 ·
Saiga 308 bolt main lugs major dia. is .050 larger than a 47 bolt with little clearance grooves on each side to prevent inteference with the top rails as the carrier and rec. are standard AK .970/.980.It fits now that I milled it to 47 dims.A 74 bolt is about .040 smaller than a 47 and .090 smaller than the Saiga 308.Must be to prevent inadvertant swapping of parts.(if they only knew).I have to modify a 74 bullet guide to allow the third lug to clear to see if it will allow the bolt to rotate.I'm getting a bit confused looking at the 308 Yugo method which moves the barrel forward about .200 and uses a unique bolt.This one will have to have the barrel in basically the same place a a 74(.100 forward compared to a 47).I'm thinking more now that most of the mag length has to go to the rear.Gonna have to find a 308 Saiga to look at.
 
#6 ·
Thanks for moving this Admin.All this stuff is the same thing with three guys doing it slightly different.Cool.
Modified the regular 47 bullet guide by moving the left side bolt ramp forward and removing about .350 from the left side curved portion down to the flat area where it locks into the trunnion.This to provide clearance for the third lugThe 3 lug Saiga bolt now locks up in the Yugo trunnion.Was going to order an RSA FCG but I think I'll save some money on this one and clearance a G2 hammer.
anybody got a 308 Saiga?This top cover has an eject port big enough for a 12ga.When the bolt is in battery there is a big gap behind the carrier.I noticed in some 12 ga pics there is a second little shield closing the gap. I wonder if it rides with the carrier or is attached to the rec.Over to the Saiga forum to ask a newbie question I suppose.
 
#10 ·
I got some of those Tantal left side selector switches for a buck each and it looked like it will fit nice and they have a spring loaded ball detent.I think I can get Off and 4 positions.Between gas port size and making axle/valve grooves of different widths I think useful variations can be set up to get softer ejection.Just something goofy to build.
 
#11 ·
I fooled around with several more of the L1A1 adjustables.

Never was really happy with them. Maybe this is the ticket.
 
#12 ·
I'm using almost the same setup except for M14 mags. I see that you made the trigger guard shorter. For the M14 mags it looks like the guard will need to be moved back one set of holes. The problem is that the mag is in the way for the stock center support. How are you going to install the center support? I wonder if a center support made of stamped steel in the form of a H spot welded in would work? Maybe just two arms off of the lower rails bent together and spot welded after the rails are installed?
 
#13 ·
I have some M14 mags I'll modify to work.Hope to be able to use Galil,Modified M14 and new 20rd Saiga's.Took .500 out of the TG.Saw no point in having space behind the trigger doing nothing.Don't expext to be using the rifle in Siberia with winter gloves.Will hasve to shorten th trigger itself a bit to clear.
Look at the last pic with the round in the mag.You can see the flat "C" shaped center support.It is welded in from thru holes and the weld ground smooth on the outside.Hammer has to have a relief cut in it to clear the center support.
 
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