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Thread: SMALLEST GAS PORT SIZE??

  1. #21
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    17-223 reamer came today YEA. pilot does not fit into barrel BOO. removable pilot coming YEA. I have been dealing with pacific tool and guage for this and the service so far is good. the pilot issue is not there fault. I should have micd my barrel before ordering. spoke to the owner seems like a good guy very help full answerd some questions on 1.5"x308 barnes and others.

  2. #22
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    I have a 16" galil with the gas port 6" from the breach face (16" micro galil) that works like a dream with a .040 gas port.
    .040 this is more to my liking.

    if I was not going to be cleaning the 17-223 some thing like every 10 shots I would avoid the small hole stuff as it may foul shut but I really am trying to get this thing be as accurate as possable no mattter how much F!@# around i have to do to keep it cycling. I am thinking an acess hole for cleaning the port would be a good idea. Of course now that I have the reamer There will be a 17-223 light weight version and a pistol as well. I have no good reason for building the pistol other than it will be the only one on earth.

  3. #23
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    How are you going to chuck the reamer?

  4. #24
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    Hve not got that far yet. a local smith told me he holds the reamer buy hand with some sort of holder that will allow it to slip f it accidentaly grabs. I may pop for a floating reamer holder.

  5. #25
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    By hand?!? That sounds odd. I had thought that with the reamer in the tail chuck and the barrel in the head stock, that was the only way to keep it centered.

    I had assumed that a lathe was mandatory for reaming, and that's why I'm so buggered by my lathe being off-kilter.

    I wonder what he uses to keep it straight? A really long pilot? How else could you keep it from wobbling "by hand"? Hrm...

  6. #26
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    I am no expert here in fact far from it. but I see that most guys use a floating reamer. so I can only guess that the reamer centers its self in the bore. It seams that I have read were some guys ream the barrel buy hand with no lath at all and spin the reamer by hand. May be an expert will answer here. I plan on reading up on all this this week.

  7. #27
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    WOW - that sounds crazy! I had a hard time centering the reamer on my lathe, but like any operation, lathe work is about 80% set-up and 20% cutting.

    The reamer-rentals website instructions assume that a lathe is being used, and to use the lowest speed setting (200-150 RPMs) and some thick cutting fluid or even motor oil. I used motor oil, and besides the smell it worked fine.

    The pilot on my .350x39 reamer was only about 3/4" long, and that doesn't seem like enough to compensate for the "freehand" cutting. It was a basic pilot that was simply the front end of the reamer that was honed to the bore size.

    I am waiting to see what others say about hand-reaming...

  8. #28
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    Pacific tool and guage advised me to use a sandard type cutting oil and thin it 50% with type f (ford) automatic transmission fluid. some info here

    http://www.bryantcustom.com/articles/rebarrel.htm

    in the picture it looks to me like the tail stock is supporting the end and used to supply pressure only. I have not completly digested all that is said here but good info. It seems to me that the reamer should cut a concentric hole down the center of the bore the main thing would be to avoid any side pressure like that which would occure if say the reamer was ridigedly clamped into a chuck in the tail stock. if my thinking is correct a floating reamer holder would basicaly supply the forward thrust needed to make it cut the floating part would be very similular to hplding it by hand. In my case there is already a 17 remington chamber gut so I do not have to ream out the whole chamber just go in deaper and rechamber to a 17-223. I am to the point were I think I may need to get professonal training from some one. these guys are talking about talerances to the 100 of a 1000th. I can assure that after cuttin a few remingtona nd savage take of barels down to fit AK trunions that factory stuff can be off several thousands from the bore to the outside of the barrel alone. On the last barrel after setting it up in a 4 jaw and a steady rest to +- .0003 that the bore/chamber was aprox .005 out of true. and the barrel had a slight bow as well this was on a heavy varmit barrel that had never been shot. I only have 3 weeks to get the 17 -223 done and to be honest I may take it to a local smith and have him rechamber it and hopefuly watch the process. I am gong to invest in some gunsmithing vidieos and books as well. I plan on doing a couple of higer end bolt actions in the future and the info would be worth the $$$ to find ut hoe to do it right. there are a few bench rest sights around that may help but dont mention varmit build AK 47 if you want to get taken seriously.

  9. #29
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    Yes, the .001" is too much runout for a precision chambering. It would probably be OK (?) for a "battle" rifle if that's what you were building. I'd leave that to the experts. I recall reading on the homegunsmithing forums way back when that someone did a 9mm chamber with a flat-bottom drill (I think it was a wood drill!) and it worked. But you're talking a 9mm vs. a precision rifle.

    The part where they describe the use of a drill is to get the chamber "roughed" to about .10 (1/10th) of an inch, then the finishing reamer does the rest.

    I am going to true the jaws of my lathe tonight so I can work on my 9x39 finishing reamer. My jaws are currently about .005" out. .006" is a sheet of typing paper and is noticeable when it spins. That is OK for an AK piston or something where tight tolerances are not a factor, but not really good for chambering.

    I have a mini-lathe, the $360 special from HF. After reading the mini-lathe.com links and the Varmint Al mini-lathe links, and all the other "tweaking your lathe" sites, I am confident the mini-lathe can achieve a .0002" runout (out of round) after the jaws are trued and everything is as it should be. I simply have to do the grunt work to tune it up. Not looking forward to that necessary evil

    My problem is that I can't stick the muzzle end of the barrel into my head stock unless you are talking an AK barrel... the head is simply too small to let a beefy barrel fit into it. I think a bigger lathe would be better for chambering jobs, or any barrel job for that matter!

    You can probably do it by hand, but darned if it is going to take some time to finish!

  10. #30
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    My problem is that I can't stick the muzzle end of the barrel into my head stock unless you are talking an AK barrel... the head is simply too small to let a beefy barrel fit into it. I think a bigger lathe would be better for chambering jobs, or any barrel job for that matter!
    I have the same problem on my 9" southbend. I take it you do not have a steady rest. My local smith uses a a steady rest on the chamber end after he trues it to the bore by workng off of a live center. I have a 12" clausinng lath that I need to get mounted on a I beam and install a motor I hacve had for 10 years just to many projects. I also assume that you do not have a 4 jaw since you are truing your 3 jaw. I never seem to have enough tooling myself.
    I doubt that the 17-223 will get done by the end of the month and to be honest it may be a good thing I am starting to get stressed on trying to get a build done buy a certain date. the worst part is on that build I have no reason to shot it except on the anuall P dog trip. so I will be wating a year to use it if it is not done.
    I do not know if my tail stock is true to the spindel or not I may check it and if it is I may just chuck the reamer in it a do it that way. I plan on doing a few other chambers in the future so a floating reamer holder may pay off. I want to have a big bore done by dear season this year (possably the 450 bushmaster) and I I have a couple mausers to play with as well.

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