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Thread: .45 & .50 Caliber "Intermediate" Rounds

  1. #21
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    HC I had a feeling you must have gotten a new book or two to look at, judging from all the talk as to new ideas on big bores. That book has a lot to take in, it sits by my keyboard as I type. I look at it on a daily basis
    No I dont think that a shortend 308 die would work as 1.5" from the end would cause the base/rim to be to small of a OD due to the taper of the case. the 308 barnes has a shoulder diamiter of .450 and the 308 WIN has a shoulder dia of .488. the shoulder angles are differant as well There are dies avaliable I already have the trim die. I made up a couple un FL sized cases to look at. the case is bigger in OD but the neck is further back than a 7.62x39. it looks prety much like a benchrest case except it is 30 CAL it does hold around 4 grains more powder and is susposed to out perform the 30-30 win in every way some thing the 7.62x39 does not. there is a 1.75" version (next page) that may offer even more, but likely to long for a standard AK mag.
    I was thinking the 308x1.5 necked up to 9mm would have worked good for your 9x39 project.

  2. #22
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    Yep it makes for a good read considering all my plans! I wish the case forming section was more detailed. I'd like to see how a cartridge base is swaged from a tube. Several of the cartridge descriptions indicate they can be made from X diameter tubing.


    Sorry, I didn't look that closely at the cartridge. I actually got that idea from reading the accurate reloading forums. There are actually a few 35x39 projects out there. The folks who have made a 35x39 wildcat did so by cutting 35 Remington dies short and running the reamer into the barrel "short". So their 35x39 is really a "35 Remington Short".

    I have done many calculations to compare the base diameter of the Russian 9x39 vs. a 35 Remington Short and determined it is probably NOT suitable for an accurate clone. IT WILL BE CLOSE! Close enough that I may go that route anyway. According to my calculations, the base of a "35 Short" would be wider than the Russian case by about .007". That may or may not be significant. If it is, it may bulge a 7.62x39 case during fireforming. The taper would be more drastic (less of a true cylinder) but it would probably work OK, so long as the fireforming was done properly. I wish I had a cartridge modelling program! I'd like to see a .35 and 7.62x39 superimposed over each other.

    The neck is also a bit different on the .35 vs. the 9x39, but not by much. Probably not a problem.

    I have an opportunity to get more accurate measurements. I want to make those measurements before deciding to commit to either a "35 Short" or building the reamer from-scratch.
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  3. #23
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    Speaking of straight-walled cases, check out this reamer setup for doing exactly what we have been talking about. This is a reamer with a depth stop set. Using plenty of cutting oil and cleaning frequently you should be able to do this basic setup for any straight-walled caliber.

    Gunco Member #10

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  4. #24
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    I am going to try a boring bar to do a straight wall chamber. I plan to just set the taper angel on my tool post to duplicate the round and bore slightly over size of the case. I will do the throat work with the correct size reamer which are much cheaper. I need that steady rest and my shop to warm up its -2 out there. what I dont like on the set up pictured is that it dosent appear to be a floating set up this means that the bore and the tool rest all need to be absolutly perfect or it will bind up and break the reamer. that reamer does not look like it is designed to do barrel work as it appears to have no pilot or to be cut to do the throat at the same time??

  5. #25
    tired of idiots vz58's Avatar
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    How about this???
    http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PMAKA=334-1107

    its $16

    for a 10mm its around $8

    I am going to run by a machinist friend of mine Monday and see what he says....
    I am wondering if I could use it on my thompson bbl to convert to 45 WM. Just do it in slow steps.

  6. #26
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    That setup is what Huble458 uses for his 12GA FH. I think in the description of that arrangement, he it was a piloted reamer. It was for a straight-walled cartridge.

    I have a cheap set of the adjustable reamers from HF. They will bore a cone shape, not a true cylinder. From my personal experience, they are good for boring through-holes and I use them for projects like when I need to open up a gas block ID or something like that. I'd recommend against them for this type of project.

    Grizzly.com has the reamers I had in mind. They are cheap, so I'd consider a US-built reamer first.
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  7. #27
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    what is a 12 guage FA??
    AN adjustiable reamer is interesing idea wonder if they could be adjusted to mimic the side wall taper of the 444 Marlin I want to do?? Now that I think about it I have a set of those reamers (very old US made) some were I will have to cheak that out. I have never used them on steel only on bronze and brass bushings.

  8. #28
    tired of idiots vz58's Avatar
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    The 45acp/WM should be 11.5mm reamer?

  9. #29
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    Looking at the picture of the adjustiable reamer above it seems that a pilot could be added to the end by just making a bushing to fit ovet the threaded shaft part.

  10. #30
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    "12gaFH" = "12 Gauge From Hell". Look for Huble458's .700 build info on the Accurate Reloading forums (big bore section) and the Guns-And-Ammunition forum as well. 1000 grain slugs @ > 2000 FPS, anyone?



    I did see that the 45 Win Mag reamer is available at the reamer rental places (4d and reamer rentals), and I'm guessing so is a .444 reamer.

    The adjustable reamers are a long threaded shaft. There are equally spaced grooves running around the circumference and aligned to the axis. Those grooves have a fixed depth and slope from "deep" to "shallow". The reamer blades are inserted into these grooves, and lock collars on both ends hold them in place.

    The adjustable reamers should be used only for through-holes. I don't see how you could adapt them for anything else. I don't think they would work for a set depth hole like a chamber.

    However, a boring bar should do the trick just as a reamer would do. You could polish the hole with polishing compound and a dremel polish wheel. A shotgun mop could be used if you could figure out how to get enough polish compound into the fibers.

    I'd use a carbide cutter on the boring bar if at all possible. Easy to replace when they go dull. I'm not sure HSS would work for a barrel, but you never can tell.

    If you have a chance to do it, I would get a chamber casting of a .45 ACP chamber and compare it to the published cartridge specs so you can make an educated guess as to how much larger the chamber should be. I'll guess .005" larger, but it could be up to .008" larger according to the Clymer Tool website about reamer design.

    If you find reamer specs for other calibers, look to see if they are "match" or "target" grade specs, because those will be TIGHT and probably too tight for our purposes.
    Gunco Member #10

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    The "original" Boltcutter Rivet Squeezers:
    http://pookieweb.net/AK/rivet/boltcutters/boltcutter.htm


    Project Pink - the Pink and Blue AK-74:
    http://pookieweb.net/pink/pink.htm

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