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Thread: MY.451 & .458 AK Ideas

  1. #21
    Always sore, always tired Bradrock's Avatar
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    Here's where I'm ordering a .50 barrel in the next few days.
    Notice they also have .311 blanks.

    I don't have much interest in a .50 BMG. Bad shoulders & no place to realy wring one out. That blank will gather dust for a long time.
    I have a LOT of learning to do on my lathe as I've never done any barrel work or anything else other than simple handyman stuff.
    By time I learn some more machining skills, reamers may be available anyhow!
    I'm not too concerned as it is such a simple chamber, with several ways to do it.
    I just jump around from one project to another so much as I come up with ideas for each, that not much comes off the end of my assembly line! But I'm having fun & learning & gathering lots of new tooling, so It must be a GOOD THING.
    " Save a tree...........Eat A Beaver!"

  2. #22
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    Bradrock this is the lathe part about reaming that I know - the barrel (either finished or unfinished) is chucked in the head. This is where a larger lathe comes in handy, because my mini-lathe simply isn't big enough for an unfinished barrel. Therefore I have to do the outside shaping first. A steady-rest helps.

    The barrel is trued, then the tailstock is trued up to the bore. That *SHOULD* be a simple thing, but mine seems to be out of spec somehow. I can't get a good alignment on it. If anyone has suggestions, I'm willing to listen!

    Anyway, you align the tail stock and that's where the reamer goes. You should mark the distance to the base of the cartridge on the reamer, like wrapping it up in tape. That's so you know if you've got the reamer in deep enough.

    Chuck it in, use motor oil (according to the reamer rental site) or another thick cutting oil, and slowly work the reamer into the barrel. If everything is in alignment, you'll slowly, tediously, cut a chamber.

    Now, I've read that you can hand-cut a chamber with a tap wrench, but I don't know how easy/difficult that is. It may be easier, I just don't know. I don't know if you just tap it "by hand" in a vise, or mount the barrel in a lathe and use your hand and the tap instead of the tail stock.

    It would be interesting to hear other people's input on this. Perhaps a new thread... ???
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  3. #23
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    I was asking my gunsmith tonight that now works out of his home about reaming my17-223. he has a foot switch on his lathe so he can so he can turn it off an on easly and he uses a floating reamer holder, and says go very slow and keep the chips out of the hole. On my AK stuff he said deep ream it then face the end of the barrel of untill I have proper bolt clearance. He has offerd to come to my shop and show me how to ream a barrel once I get a steady rest. I think what ever the rest costs would be well worth the education I may get. this guy is older but is very well regarded and is the only one I trust with my trap and higher end guns.
    I showed him one of my AK pistols he was not taken aback by its EVIL apperance at all and was very interested my varmit build. I am hoping to pick his brain some more when I pick up my shotgun, I am almost looking for things I need done so I can go see him.
    Bradrock If you get a .50 beowlf reamer you are suddenly going to have a bunch of new best friends!

  4. #24
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1biggun
    he uses a floating reamer holder, and says go very slow and keep the chips out of the hole
    You have my attention! What pray tell is a floating reamer holder? Need to know. And how slow is slow? THe reamer rental instructions specify up to 200 RPM. That's the lowest speed on my lathe.
    Gunco Member #10

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    The "original" Boltcutter Rivet Squeezers:
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    Project Pink - the Pink and Blue AK-74:
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  5. #25
    Always sore, always tired Bradrock's Avatar
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  6. #26
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    A floating reamer holder will allow for some missalignment in your tailstock and slight runout in the barrel. obviously you want it at close as possable. By slow I am refering to the speed that you wouldfeed the reamer into the bore. in otherwords alittle at a time pullback and clean away any chips. brownelles has reamer holders as well. I have seen some set ups were the reamer is handheld and the tap wrenh has a sort of adapter that allows the reamer to slip in it if binds up in the barrel so it wont break your wrist and the reamer.

  7. #27
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    Oh that is totally cool!

    This is a like new condition full floating chamber reamer holder. It is made just like the clymer except this one has a 7/16 steel ball. By installing the 7/16 dia ball behind the reamer this gives the reamer holder angular floatation as well as perpendicular floatation. To use set the gap between the two parts at approx .050 inches insert the 7/16 dia ball and then slide the reamer shank down aganist the ball until the gap tightens up between the two parts of the reamer holder. Next lock the reamer in place. Now loosen the two screws that hold the two parts together approx 1/2 turn. The reamer now has angular and perpendicular floatation. The reamer will follow the bore of the barrel even is it is off center or not straight. What you are doing is just pushing the reamer and the floatation of the reamer holders lets it do this. This reamer holder has a 1/2 inch straight shank, and holds standard 7/16 dia shank chamber reamers.
    Gunco Member #10

    http://pookieweb.net


    The "original" Boltcutter Rivet Squeezers:
    http://pookieweb.net/AK/rivet/boltcutters/boltcutter.htm


    Project Pink - the Pink and Blue AK-74:
    http://pookieweb.net/pink/pink.htm

  8. #28
    Always sore, always tired Bradrock's Avatar
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    Well.......I took the plunge & ordered a .50 barrel from Pac Nor. 28" 1 in 18 twist chrome moly. Just under $200.00.

    I'm comitted now to eventually building the Beowulf.
    Next on the list I guess is a steady rest & choosing the best magazine.

    Oh.........learn how to use a lathe . ( could be the deal breaker!)

    They said six to eight weeks. Time to start cutting some chips.
    " Save a tree...........Eat A Beaver!"

  9. #29
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    Bradrock it might pay to just have someone do the chamber work for you. Unless you are going to do a bunch of work the steady rest and floating reamer holder may not be worth the investment. I have gotten quotes for reaming a chamber in the $40 range with my reamer. A $200 dollar barrel it not a god way to start learning how to use a lathe. Now if your like me and think you need every tool under the sun then buy away LOL keep us posted on the build I think it will be a awsome weapon when done. Are you going to buy the dies and reload as well??

  10. #30
    Always sore, always tired Bradrock's Avatar
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    Believe me.....I will NOT be practicing on THIS barrel. I'm in no hurry at all. Have many other builds in progress. I'm just gathering parts as funds allow.
    Yes I need every accessory ever made for the South Bend 9" lathe.
    I have over 200 cutters for my horizontal mill now & haven'u used but two of them yet.
    I'll be doing chambering & have accumulated quite a library on the subject. The fun for me is learning something new & I don't care how long it takes. I don't even care if I screw up & have to start over. I just keep trying until I get things done right.
    " Save a tree...........Eat A Beaver!"

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