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Thread: Scope mount on my SVU needs adjustment

  1. #11
    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    I'm no expert but that does sound like a lot of shim.
    Did you shim the mount that goes on the receiver? Just making sure I'm reading it right.
    But I have to agree with VZ, I'd take a little materal off the other end of the mount.

  2. #12
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    OK here it is:

    http://pookieweb.dyndns.org:61129/Optics/100_0462.JPG

    http://pookieweb.dyndns.org:61129/Optics/100_0460.JPG

    and the whole thing:

    http://pookieweb.dyndns.org:61129/Optics/100_0461.JPG


    REMEMBER - this is the scope rail I made from a hunk of steel and riveted to the trigger housing! We aren't talking a normal one:

    http://pookieweb.dyndns.org:61129/AK...l/000_0228.JPG

    http://pookieweb.dyndns.org:61129/AK...scope_rail.htm

    I used the Eyeball 1.0 method to align it, and it was eyeball calibrated to a mailbox at 100 yards before I mounted the rivets "just to be sure". Obviously it was still off...

    A shim like this is going to affect zero because the alignment pins will make it "permanent". It is REALLY solid once you dial everything down and press the pins into place. The pins are just two cross pins like you'd use on the barrel FSB and gas block. But it seems OK... ?
    Last edited by hcpookie; 04-10-2008 at 12:20 PM.
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  3. #13
    tired of idiots vz58's Avatar
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    LOL I just went searching for those pics and found them, come back here and you posted them.....

    Don't know, is there a place that can be milled down?

  4. #14
    Gunco Maniac sjohnson's Avatar
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    Kinda the same question as vx58 - any way that barreled receiver can be setup on the mill table and the mount adjusted?

    How far off was milspec ammo, if the handloads are apparently 4 feet off? I'm confused I think.

  5. #15
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    I may have confused the matter, and I'm sorry if I did.

    **APPARENTLY*** the scope rail was mounted crooked, even though I tried to align it, and therefore ALL loads hit high by about 3-4 feet. I didn't bother to measure exactly. Maybe it was less, but it looked like it was more than 2 pieces of notebook paper which is obviously 11" high.

    I am off to the range today to chrono my loads, and I will make it a point to use some notebook paper to measure exactly how high it is!





    Now, looking back, my rotating machinists vise that I used to secure the rail while I was milling it may have been off by about 1/3 of one degree. THAT may be the reason that the rail is off, even though I aligned everything via eyeball as I explained previously.

    I am positive that the trigger housing is solid and there is no wiggle. It is solid to the point that the cross pin requires you to push it out with the tip of a screwdriver. It simply won't wiggle or vibrate.


    As far as machining the scope rail, I could machine the vertical surface of the rear, which would obviously raise the front. Note the two vertical surfaces on the clamp part of the scope mount:

    http://pookieweb.dyndns.org:61129/Optics/100_0452.JPG

    Note the amount of play I can get when the screws are loose - NOW WE ALL KNOW I HAVE A SCREW LOOSE!

    http://pookieweb.dyndns.org:61129/Optics/100_0454.JPG

    I'm really not worried if I do have to shim it that much, because the vertical is clamped by a 7mm bolt, one for each vertical riser. Notice that the holes for the cross pins are the only part that is not painted. Even the screw holes are painted. That confirms that the cross pins are drilled and pressed in after everything is bolted down. So even IF I use the .020" shim, I will drill and press those pins and it should be rock-solid.
    Last edited by hcpookie; 04-10-2008 at 12:22 PM.
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  6. #16
    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    OK, now that I see where your talking about, I have no suggestions, I'd be afraid of screwing something up and have to buy another mount.
    If it was mine, I'd try something like you said, get it adjusted as close as you can and tighten down the screws then drill and install new pins to lock it in place.

  7. #17
    tired of idiots vz58's Avatar
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    I think I have you now. Leave the alum shims.

  8. #18
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    ACK! I changed the reload to a slightly hotter load, and the shims no longer help. I'm back to being just at the top of the paper when the dial is at "0".

    Now, the frame can no longer be offset, because the screw heads (on the side) are touching against the edge of their recessed holes. I think now I need to shave the back pillar to compensate.

    I'm glad I didn't re-glue it together before I zeroed it with these new loads! Fortunately, these loads are *THE* loads I plan to use. They are the starting loads in the Hornady manual, and according to the Nosler website, the lower-powered loads were more accurate in their tests.

    Therefore, I should be able to actually make the repairs now that my reloading recipe is "locked". I need to find some "hard" hot glue to re-fasten the two pieces together.
    Gunco Member #10

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  9. #19
    Indian Admin Winn R's Avatar
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    Jerry -- the set up is a real pita requiring edge alignment with the barrel but the final product works. The end mills are not that expensive -- I think this came from Enco: they're a deal compared to the mental energy expended otherwise!!


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  10. #20
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    Winn, as much as I hate to say it, I'll probably be removing and reinstalling the rail. I have the room to shim it, and I can trim the screw heads to give myself a little more space. However, I am going to be doing work to the trigger housing *anyway*, and I can justify welding up those holes and redrilling them at the same time.

    So I'll *probably* just forget about redoing the shim a 2nd time and go with what I have.



    On a side note, the Hornady progressive press I have is a really nice tool! I cranked out 60 rounds in no time at all. Setting the powder charge is my biggest time killer, but overall it isn't *that* bad.
    Gunco Member #10

    http://pookieweb.net


    The "original" Boltcutter Rivet Squeezers:
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    Project Pink - the Pink and Blue AK-74:
    http://pookieweb.net/pink/pink.htm

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