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Thread: 44????

  1. #91
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    Are you going to ream the inside to get more powder capacity?
    NO I feel the case should have enough capacity to meet the needs I have in mind for this round and I want all the wall thickness I can get for head spacing of the mouth. the 44??? is over 1/2" longer than a 44 mag with a larger case OD at the base. IT should be plenty. My goal is 1800to1900 FPS this is only a rough guess but is based on what other simular rounds do. I am expecting a case capicty of aproximently 53-55 GR,s. this should make it a very capiable deer hunting round my intended purpose, and knock down what ever doors and walls and water jugs and dirt clods the Rambo guys think they need.


    Also, I used steel mags and was able to spot weld the locking lugs. Not sure if aluminum brazing would work for the alloy mags. Something to think about.
    I have a very nice tig welder so if I want to use aluminumit will be ok. I also have about 10 of the steel mags that tapco had so cheap back when.

    As far as the mags go check this out here is the 44???? in a FAL mag. If cut down they would be almost perfict. (see next post for pics)

    As far as brass goes here is some that will require no fire forming or expanding. little pricey but If you wanted to skip ma few steps it would be ideal it nalso has more case capicty due to thinner walls. it is 30-06 or whelin basic.

    30-06 Cylinder Brass for Wildcat and Custom Ammunition

  2. #92
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    THE 44??? IN A FAL MAG!! the bullet fits perfect in the conture of the mag and this mag seems to send the bullet more to the center. They are more money ($10-$15) not to bad but not $2 lie the G3. the FAL mag is narrower and would fit into a AK trunion a lot better. I want to be able to make this fit in a AK/AR length mag well on a standard reciver. If I cant make that happen I might as well skip it and just build the 444 rimless marlin project on a custom reciver instead.

  3. #93
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    Did you guys see this .44 barrel from Numrich:

    .357 Magnum / .44 Magnum Chambered Barrel Blanks?|?e-GunParts.com
    Gunco Member #10

    http://pookieweb.net


    The "original" Boltcutter Rivet Squeezers:
    http://pookieweb.net/AK/rivet/boltcutters/boltcutter.htm


    Project Pink - the Pink and Blue AK-74:
    http://pookieweb.net/pink/pink.htm

  4. #94
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    I saw it. Im not sure if it is at least 23mm or not. I got a differant blank from them and the bore is way out of center of the unturned blank. the barrel you show would be a much bettter start if it was at least 23mm at the breach. Might be worth a call to them

  5. #95
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    Actually you could just sleeve the barrel. Not a big deal, but requires a lathe.

    Typically you'd have to lathe down the journal area and measure the size.

    Then bore a 1" bar (or thick-walled tubing) to the same size, leaving enough for a modest press fit. Lathe the O.D. to match the trunion size (leaving material for a press fit).

    Then press it onto the barrel. Drill the barrel pin hole and you're set. I did this on my .308 G3 barrel and on my .223 build that uses a Galil barrel. Both required a sleeve and worked fine. The barrel pin holds everything in place anyway, so in theory you don't even need a really tight fit between the barrel and the sleeve.

    The thin sleeve for the G3 barrel was a PITA - kept wanting to move off of the barrel. I tack-welded it onto the original G3 barrel pin notch and it worked fine.

    Super-easy with a lathe. Just tedious work.
    Gunco Member #10

    http://pookieweb.net


    The "original" Boltcutter Rivet Squeezers:
    http://pookieweb.net/AK/rivet/boltcutters/boltcutter.htm


    Project Pink - the Pink and Blue AK-74:
    http://pookieweb.net/pink/pink.htm

  6. #96
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    I started working on my barrrel to day. It is going to need to be turned on centers to get the OD true to the ID it is way off center. It will have to be then chucked and profiled then have the muzzel turned and crowned and then it will need to be turned around rechucked and then ran on a steady rest to do the chamber.
    I am going to try to bore the the chamber with a boring bar after I run a throating reamer in first (we will see) the worst thing that could happen is I have to make a shorter barrel. the chamber only needs aprox .005 of taper in 1.85" If I can bore a round hole straight I should be able to to it at a taper by using the steady rest feed.
    I have no plans for a front site as it will be scoped or a red dot I am thinking a FAL gas block to keep the od larger. I am thinking of a custom RSB like on my varmit build.
    This is going to be a lot of work

  7. #97
    Gunco Regular Gunter's Avatar
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    Let us know how it goes and yes it's a lot of work, but you already know that from your 223 builds. I sort of got burned out on the 308. Need to get it back out and finish it.

  8. #98
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    This is going to be a lot tougher than the 223. On that build all I had to do was chuck it true on the muzzel end and run the live center into the chamber and turn the breach end to 23 mm and the rsb to around 1.00 then cut a untaperd section were the gas block went for a couple inches, in fact the 223 still has the factory bluing on the barrel. took about a hour or so. this 44 barrel needs every thing plut its like 1.25 thick im thinking a couple days and at least 3 set ups. may have to abort for awhile untill the
    17-223 is done that needs to be ready in a month for praire dogs

    Gunter did you get your Lee factory crimp die in 444 marlin yet?? was wondering how that worked out.

  9. #99
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    Don't sell yourself short. I turned a 1.25" barrel blank down to an AK profile in a Saturday afternoon/evening. It won't necessarily take that long if you have a power feed. Setup and truing is, IMO, about 75%-85% of the work. Get it straight and the cutting will go MUCH MUCH easier.

    Oh I almost forgot - expect to make an RPK-sized or bigger barrel, because the .44 is so much bigger. Just an FYI - I konw you already know
    Gunco Member #10

    http://pookieweb.net


    The "original" Boltcutter Rivet Squeezers:
    http://pookieweb.net/AK/rivet/boltcutters/boltcutter.htm


    Project Pink - the Pink and Blue AK-74:
    http://pookieweb.net/pink/pink.htm

  10. #100
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    Ive got power feed. the problem is the bore is not true to the OD its way off. I am going to have to make a brass pilot that the barrel will fit tightly on then drive it with a dog with the other end in a live center. just to cut one ends od true to the bore ,then flip it around and put that end in the chuck, so that I am now turning the OD true to the ID . This all has to be done before any profiling can be done once profiled then each end will have to be trued and crowned or chamberd in a steady rest.
    Next time I will at least find a Turned blank! That way the ID an OD are true to each other and I can just chuck it in a go.. I have a rough blank that still has forging seams in it and the bore is over a 1/6 out of center.
    Im looking to have at least a 18" barrel and closer to 20" I am looking at leaving it a pretty heavy barrel likely the OD of a FAL gas bloks ID. the Tromix 444 marlin conversion uses all the Siaga 410 barrrel parts so that must be a pretty thin barrel. even though I want a pistol in this calibur I think I am going to build a rifle first. to work out the bugs on

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