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Thread: 44????

  1. #51
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    If you cut at the neck were would you seat the bullet?? another alternitive for a large bore in that length would be necking up a 358 win (358win is a necked up 308) to .375.

    I have some RCBS 44 mag dies coming to play with on the 44???. I think I will try to fire form the cut 06 brass in my 444 marlin dies to blow out the case then try to seat and crimp with the 44 marlin dies. Once A actual gun it built then fire forming can be done in it. I think the 06 brass can be taper expanded as well. I have been wanting to build one of those in die fire forming set ups anyway. It might be possable to just cut the 06 brass to size expand the neck the neck, seat the bullet with 44 dies then just shoot it in the built gun plinking with lead bullets. the fired brass will then be blown out. the catch 22 is you need a round that is all formed and finalized to design the chamber off of.
    I am thinking a throating reamer can be used first then follwed by boring the sligtly tapered chamber in the lathe by using the tool post set at the proper angle. how ever the chamber is cut, it is going to need a very prounced step from chamber to free bore to headspace off of.

  2. #52
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    I found this while looking around. if it were rimless it would be very close to the 44??? the 445 super magnun is made with cut down 444 marlin brass. it apears that it is sweaged or turned down at the base. loads should be pretty close though.

    http://www.sixguns.com/tests/tt445sm.htm

  3. #53
    Gunco Regular Gunter's Avatar
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    Been away for a few days. The 223 single stack still is not here.

    The RCBS expander for the 44magnum die is a 9/16 SAE thread, so I will have to turn a tapered one or turn a bushing to use the expander setup out of the 7.62x39. The 7.62 has two removeable expanders so it shouldn't be to hard to turn another to .426 (size of the 44mag expander).

  4. #54
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    Gunter you may want to make 2 differant ones on with a lot of taper and one that will reach all the way down almost flush to the bottom. When you expand do you have to have a die to support the case or can you just run in with the expander sticking way out????? I was looking at my adjustable reamers and it might be doable for cutting a straight wall chamber (like HC suggested some were). I was thinking it might be possable to add a pilot to the threaded part of one of these. it looks like a piloted thrating reamer can be had for around $30 my thinking is run that first then set up the adjustable reamer with the correct tapper and run that in second. it looks like the adjustiable reamer will cut a sharp edge to headspace off of. Just thinking outloud here.

  5. #55
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    The 7.62 has two removeable expanders so it shouldn't be to hard to turn another to .426 (size of the 44mag expander).
    you are going to want the expander bigger than .426 because 44 mag is a non taperd round. the 444 marlin is bigger at the base than 44 mag so you are going to whant a bigger expander. I think what you want to do is expand the entire cut 30-06 case straight (no taper) then run it back through the 444 marlin die to give it the taper. then run it through the 44 mag die to do the neck and seat the bullet. my prototype brass resulted in .456 at the neck and .465 at he base. I am thinking you would want a expander .009 larger than the bullet. my bullet measures .429 (on my cheap calipurs) so that should give a expander of .438. now I am assuming the brass is the same thickness all the way back to the base. it may not be and also all brass is not the same. millitary is thicker so if you are useing that then then it all goes out the window. I am using some remington for my inital set up. what I am invesiong in the finished brass is a nice straight taper from the base to the area were the bullet is seated aprox .450 back from the mouth.

  6. #56
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    ID reaming can be tricky because you would need to ensure you don't cut into the web at the base.

    You can get a neck reamer and run it down into the case to the depth you require. I'm thinking about doing a slightly different version of a neck reamer to ream the ID of the military brass like this:

    1. Make a sulfur casting of the inside of the good cartridge, *or* cut it in half. Either way, I would get the actual ID measurements of the entire cartridge.

    2. Either find an adjustable reamer or build my own to match the ID. The taper will ensure the web at the bottom will be preserved. The pilot could be the primer hole.

    3. Chuck it in a drill press or case trimmer and trim the brass.

    I think it should be that easy. The benefit of doing this is that you have the greater case capacity without sacrificing safety.

    This is what I've thought up for the .06 brass I'm going to cut down to 45 Winchester Magnum.


    A question - have you looked around on other wildcatting forums like the accuratereloading.com forums? Someone may have already paved the way and may have some tips/insights to help out.
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  7. #57
    Gunco Regular Gunter's Avatar
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    Funny you should bring that up HC. I was just there last night reading a thread that was close to what this is only using a full length .06 case. They were asking about a rimless 444 Marlin like 1 biggun wants. The two main concerns were taper for feeding/extraction and headspacing off of the mouth with the pressures that it would run at. I can post a link to the thread if it's not against the rules here and you might have to login to read.

    They got into using .416 bullets with a shoulder and going up to a .284 case and using a shoulder with the .429. The 450 BM has to headspace off of the mouth, so guess Hornady got it to work?

    The easiest might be to just go with the .375 Shannon or the .375/38-40. .375 rifle length barrels are easy to come by and a good selection of bullets.

  8. #58
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    I have an account over there, I'll try to check it out later.

    The BM is going to be easy to headspace - the gauge itself needs to be 1.7" to ensure it is bottomed out, and you're going to set it from that. The same thing would need to be done for the 44 ?? by making sure the gauge has a distinct edge to contact the edge of the chamber. I don't really see what the trick is, because all other straight-wall cartridges like 9mm, .40 SW, .45 ACP, etc all do the same thing.

    Could you blow out an .06 or 308 case to eliminate needing to cut it down? That would be quite interesting. That's what I was thinking when I said cutting at the neck and using a taper expander to open the remaining taper of the case to full size. You could fireform it too, I think. Either way, you would end up with an .06/308 case that is misisng only the neck and is enlarged to .44 caliber size. Then you'd need to find an appropriately large magazine and you're set.
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  9. #59
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    Id like to see that link. I think that its ok we have been postink LINK s on every thing else. I dont think it is ok to post a COPY of another site???????

  10. #60
    Gunco Regular Gunter's Avatar
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    Here's the thread:

    Max bore for -06 case? - Topic Powered by eve community

    If it is against the rules, mods please delete.

    I forgot to answer one of your questions 1biggun. On the 44 magnum dies set the first die is the FL outside die and primer pin. The next die is the inside expander. The expander die has lots of room between the outside of the case and the inside of the die. So really it is just sort of self centering.

    Has anyone heard of sealing problems when going over the 36,000 psi (SAAMI 44 mganum) with straight walled cases? Plus the 44 Ragnarok might need to be inside reamed to a depth like the 44 automag to keep the bullet from walking in under recoil.

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