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US .308 barrel

1K views 8 replies 6 participants last post by  muttman 
#1 ·
I now have a US barrel (remington) for my .308 ak , but if I turn down the barrel to size for the sight block the "US" stamp mark will be removed. other than welding the sight block on to the trunnion what other ideas are there out there? I would like (need) to keep this mark.
thanks muttman
 
#2 ·
You know the current thought is that the markings are not needed for compliance parts.

And if there's ever an issue, a unique turned barrel should speak for itself.
 
#4 ·
"Ditto" - it doesn't have to be marked "MADE IN USA" - you simply have to validate that it is... the burden of proof is on "them", so you need to be able to validate via receipts or whatever. A stamp set is < $10 from HF, if you feel the need to stamp it again.
 
#5 ·
I would wonder about how much barrel would be left after turning to a std RSB size and how close it would be to the chamber since the 308 is longer.

You could make a new rear sight base with a larger hole, cut the sight base off, and weld it to the new one. Cut a slot for the gas tube flange with a Dremmel & cutoff wheel.
 
#6 ·
I just worry about "welding" anything to or near a barrel
No way would you want to weld to a barrel ,but welding a sectioned RSB to a sleave and pinning that to a barrel is A OK. I considerd welding to the trunion an felt it wasnt ok plus I needed more than a tack weld to support a heavy scope.I didnt want to put that much heat into the trunion


On my 223 varmit build the barrel is close to 1.00" under the RSB (Over kill for a standard build) . I used a milled square block (you can easly use a a round section of pipe or a coupler ect) bored a hole in it, then milled a recess in it and welded a RSB with the barrel section cut off onto it.
I put a lot of work in mine making it match the reciver DIA and and plug welding it through the side then milling off the welds dual pins ect. It could be as simple as just cutting off a RSB an welding it to a simple sleave and covering it with the hand guard
. I personaly would leave as much meat at the breach end to make it more accurate. the thinner it is in that area the more barrrel whip warping ect. I then milled the top of welded in a block to attach a hand milled steel weaver rail fer a scope. it should be noted also that on my build the barrel got bigger after the RSB so it had to be pressed on from the breach end I also have it pressed tight against the trunion to make the barrel more rigid.
here is a picture. the weird screw is for a floating AMD 65 gas tube I eleminated the latch the screw it not tight against the tube this allows the tube to apply no pressure on the barrel and allows it to float. keep in mind I built this gun in a week and wasent really worried about fit and finish but more about accuracy. you can also see part of the milled steel weaver rail I made.

 
#8 ·
Here is a couple pics of the FSB in solid steel. the gas pistion rides in the block close clearanced for aprox 1.5" uses a standard length piston that sticks out of the shorter AMD 65 tube that just lies in a slot in the RSB. this is way to heavy for a carry gun. I am going to try alumnium on the next varmit build in 17-223.





 
#9 · (Edited)
just to clear up this post, what I ment by welding was the fsb to the trunnion not the barrel to fsb that could work but just plane bad juju.
Im not to consernd over the O.D. vs chanmber I.D. the O.D. will stay the same to the fsb then srink down to the fsb O.D. this should shorten the lathe time and the barrel was $30 with a good target crown and pits just past the chamber for free so Im not to worried over the coverd up parts.
muttman
 
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