Started on this project back in December and it is just now nearing completion. I am a slow worker, what can I say...
Started with an AK flat and 2xtm magwell.
FUBAR'd the angle of the magwell so I had to start over, good thing I have more flats and ordered 2 magwells. I am using a 16" uzi barrel that was turned and sleeved for me by a member of another site. Add a romi parts kit, phantom flash hider and saiga rifle handguard and this is what you get.
I was originally planning on using a 6 pos. adjustable AR stock but wasnt really diggin the look, so I changed my mind and went with a plain ol' A2 stock instead. I made a sort of "pistol" trunnion for the rear and was trying to figure out where I could find a steel AR recoil buffer tube when it hit me, its just a tub with a threaded hole at the end and I dont need the threads on the open end anyway so I went on the hunt for a piece of ~1.1" OD tube. I found it in an old Roadmaster bicycle frame I fished out of a trash pile awhile back.
Eyeballed 'er straight and welded 'er up.
Then after fiddling around with a CETME parts kit I decided a non-recip cocking handle would be the cats ass since this is a recoil-operated build. Step 1: Aquire G3 cocking tube and trunnion from RobertRTG (good people there BTW!)
Step2: Cut up G3 tube to remove area needed.
Step 3: Section G3 tube and weld AK RSB flange to end to achieve same OAL as AK gas tube.
I should note here that I originally was going to permanently weld the small piece of rail to the gas block to retain the option of running AR BUIS's but decided it looked retarded so I removed it and will be installing H&K open sights in addition to the rail on the RSB.
Next, mock up to test fit and function.
Luckily the G3 parts fit EXTREMELY well with the AK parts. The AK gas piston head fits PERFECTLY into the rear of the charging handle piece and once the outside of the piston and inside of the handle piece were beveled they work very well together. I am a little hessitant to drill and pin the gasblock because of the increase in bore diameter, I'm not sure how far I can go before getting into the bore. For this reason, I installed a set screw for now and it seems to be holding. If it retains its position after test firing, I will probably leave it there and maybe JB weld it in place. The angle of the gas block greatly affects the smoothness of the action but with it tweeked just right it works prety well. A little rough, but I expect it to smooth out with use.