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Thread: 7.62x25 Gas Operated AK pistol

  1. #11
    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Winn R View Post
    Wow!!!!

    That's what I call building one from scratch!!! Well done.
    Ditto

    Excellent work, thanks for sharing the info.



    are you concerned about cutting into the trunion that much/ worried the locking lugs are not supported enough without the rest of the trunion?
    I don't see a problem at all mainly because of it being a pistol caliber, now if it was still a rifle caliber I'd think it over a few time before trying it.

  2. #12
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    I WAS LOOOKING AT THE AMOUNT OF MATERIAL REMOVED AS WELL. THERE MIGHT BE SOME SERIOUS FLEXING OR CRACKING OR OTHER ISUES ON THE RH SIDE OF THE TRUNION. NOT A LOT OF METAL LEFT.

  3. #13
    Gunco Member sdpat's Avatar
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    That's awesome. Great work!

  4. #14
    Gunco Member SW44's Avatar
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    If I remember correctly, most of the metal I removed was thin compared to the metal higher up that extends back to the lugs. That thin metal would stabilize the lugs during extraction when the bolt is rotating and dragging against the lug. I am guessing (and you might say betting) that there more than enough material left to handle the forces generated by the 7.62x25 cartridge.

    The recoil forces are alot less than what the original trunnion was designed for. I had to cut the recoil spring, make a weaker hammer spring and modify the hammer face just so the action would cycle reliably. Still, I should make a note to magniflux the lugs after the first 1000 rounds or so to check for cracks.

    Thanks for the compliments guys.

  5. #15
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    If I remember correctly, most of the metal I removed was thin compared to the metal higher up that extends back to the lugs. That thin metal would stabilize the lugs during extraction when the bolt is rotating and dragging against the lug. I am guessing (and you might say betting) that there more than enough material left to handle the forces generated by the 7.62x25 cartridge.

    The recoil forces are alot less than what the original trunnion was designed for. I had to cut the recoil spring, make a weaker hammer spring and modify the hammer face just so the action would cycle reliably. Still, I should make a note to magniflux the lugs after the first 1000 rounds or so to check for cracks.

    Thanks for the compliments guys.

    I WOULD KEEP A CLOSE EYE ON IT. I HOPE IT WOKS OUT FOR YOU. A BULGED YUGO TRUNION MIGHT HAVE BEEN A BETTER CHOICE AS ITS THICKER IN THAT AREA.

  6. #16
    Gunco Rookie 2 dogs's Avatar
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    That is so COOL!

  7. #17
    Indian Admin Winn R's Avatar
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    opinion only

    Many of the sub guns in this caliber are blow back. As are many of the AK conversions.

    Three inches of recoil spring were removed to allow cycling. The hammer spring change was for the same reason.

    The rifle was overdesigned for a cartridge of about twice the energy.

    Recoil lugs are not an issue.
    There is no nonsense so errant that it cannot be made the creed of the vast majority by adequate governmental action. -- Bertrand Russell


    "Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by stupidity." Robert J. Hanlon

  8. #18
    Gunco Member cntrailrider's Avatar
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    SW -

    I just now stumbled across your build thread - WOW Nicely done - great job on your write-up & pics too. You are one of the very few who's been able to get a gas-op in x25 going, and a pistol at that. Very impressive build, especialy the way you compacted the magwell & trunnion together. Thanks for posting it!

    Steve

  9. #19
    Gunco Member SW44's Avatar
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    Thanks Steve!

    I have the pistol taken apart to make a new receiver and clean up some earlier mistakes. I took the opportunity to take photos of the modifications made to the bolt carrier, trigger group and the custom trigger guard.

    Modifications were made to the bolt carrier and hammer to reduce the force required to push the hammer back to the recocked position. The rear "nose" on the bolt carrier was extended to be just shorter than the firing pin position in the locked position. The hammer face was extended and recontoured to be as long as possible without interferring with the disconnector catching the hammer. The photos show the mods compared to stock pieces.

    The modifications allowed the bolt carrier to push the hammer back furthur using the "nose" of the bolt carrier and the face of the hammer. It gives it more leverage for a longer time. Once the "nose" can no longer push on the hammer, the bottom of the bolt carrier begins to push on the hammer, but with less leverage. With this mod the hammer is nearly recocked by the time the bottom of the carrier starts to push on it. It reduces the force needed.

    I stated in an earler posting that the hammer spring was made in the stock configuration from 0.045 music wire. It was actually made with only one leg as the photo shows. I had to add another spring to help reset the trigger. It is located on the right side of the trigger group and presses against the receiver to help push the right leg of the trigger back down. I haven't had any misfires with the lighter hammer strike.

    The last photo shows the trigger guard I made. It was made to move the mag release forward to the new location. The square block of steel was made ti fill the gap and give the mag release spring something to press against. Two short button head allen screws were used to hold it in place. A selector stop plate was also made in a longer size.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #20
    Gunco Veteran pjm204's Avatar
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    I have been considering a similar build except I want to conquer the 9mm gas operated. I am not sure it is really possible but I just don't like the idea of welding the bolt and carrier together.

    NICE WORK!

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