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Thread: .50 Beowulf?

  1. #161
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    Im glad you got a reamer source and pacific is top notch. I order all my stuff from him.

    you can likley pay that reamer off by quietly sell off a few chamberd barrels or chambering some one elses barrels. Id be interested in one possable down the road.

  2. #162
    TRX
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    Met up with mtdew this afternoon and snagged a Galil top cover from him. It's a smooth cover, noticeably thicker than a Romanian or Maadi cover, with the U-shaped reinforcement across the back edge. Ought to work nicely with the Galil gas tube that's coming. I'll worry about the dovetails in the trunnion later.

  3. #163
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    Galil gas tube and Yugo bolt showed up today. Amazingly, the width of the gas tube matches up nicely with the Yugo front trunnion; all I have to do is cut the notches for the retaining ears on the gas tube.

    From squinting at Valmet pictures it looked like the ears were dovetails, but the Galil tube has little square ears. Which is much better - instead of setting up a cutter on the mill, I can cut the matching grooves in the trunnion with a hacksaw blade if I'm careful.

    The Yugo bolt wasn't quite what I wanted. It still had a big lightening groove cut on one side, but I'm going to try drilling it for a sprung firing pin. Worst case, I have to buy another bolt body.

  4. #164
    TRX
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    Default wa-HOO!

    Got a message from Pacific Tool; my chambering reamer shipped last Friday!

    Dave Kiff said it would take five or six weeks, but that's only about a week since they would have received my money order.


    In other news, yesterday I found an interesting trick in Vickery's gunsmithing book. Basically, if you're working with a barrel blank and it won't go through the headstock for threading and chambering, just turn the OD down until it will, allowing for the profile you'll put on it later. I like that idea a *lot* better than dinking around with the steady rest.

  5. #165
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    In other news, yesterday I found an interesting trick in Vickery's gunsmithing book. Basically, if you're working with a barrel blank and it won't go through the headstock for threading and chambering, just turn the OD down until it will, allowing for the profile you'll put on it later. I like that idea a *lot* better than dinking around with the steady rest.
    thats how I do a lot of mine. the trick is turn the blank so it barely fits through that way it wont want to flop around assuming the inside or the spindel runs true.

  6. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1biggun View Post
    thats how I do a lot of mine.
    NOW you tell me!

  7. #167
    TRX
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    I bought some more metal to make another shoe for my bending tool. I need to machine it into shape, and make some spuds to turn the barrel between centers. All major parts and the chambering reamer are here, so the project is now officially waiting for round tuits. I'm a bit short of "project time" at the moment, but that should change soon...

  8. #168
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    If your barrel is long enough you some times can use a drill bit to hold the barrel as long as your cutting off the part that the bit is hitting. saves having to turn a mandrel to have run it on.

    on the 444????? barrel I used a drill bit with a dog and a live center. to get it down to size.

  9. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRX View Post
    NOW you tell me!
    Me too!

    The only downside is that if your blank is not properly centered, you can have an off-centered hole. So you need to check that to be sure.

    USUALLY is not a problem, however in 1biggun's case with that .44 barrel I remember the talk that is was not a properly centered bore, which makes life more difficult with the dog setup.
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  10. #170
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    actualy the dog set up worked very well as long as the lathe is long enough. It insures that the bore is concentric to the OD. simply just center the drill bit or stub made from brass or just turn one in the lathe and then leave it there then you know it is as true as your lathe. put the chamber end ( must be faced or cut true some how) and then profile your barrel. if the blank is long enough cut it off. you now have a bore as true to the OD as your lathe will cut. then you can chuck the barrel in and set it up with a dial indicator on the OD of the barrrel.

    I have been turning most of my barrels on center. I am currently working on a 6.5mm profiled blank and the bore at the breach end was .006" out of center from the factory. had I just chucked it in and turned it off the OD it would have not been true.

    On my South Bend I have a 3/4" spindel ID so that is as big of a OD I can chamber. I need to have a straight section fairly close to the stub but it can stick out a ways. also keep in mind if you go this route to do the crowning and muzzel threading the barrel will have to reach through the back side of the spindel far enough to stick through to be worked on. I can do a 16" barrel this way if it is taken down to 3/4 except the stub.

    I still need a steady rest for heavy varmit barrels and longer barrels. if you have a smaller barrel then your spindel bore. make a sleave to work as a bushing to support the barrel in the spindel or it will want to wip around. the sleave dont have to be perfect as long as the stub is true when you chamber it.

    If you have floating pilots for your reamer then you already have a part turned to fit your bore just make a rod the can accept pilots then you can do multipul bore sizes with out having to make a stub/rod to hold the barrel. in fact there is likely a drill bit size to hold pilots so you dont have to turn any thing.

    also keep in mind that the barrel needs to go up against the chuck so be thrusted forward with the live center on the tail stock.

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