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Thread: .50 Beowulf?

  1. #241
    Always sore, always tired Bradrock's Avatar
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    biggun; If your spindle threads are 1 3/8 x 10 instead of 1 1/2 x 8 & if you can reach the tailstock nut from front & back ( see thru tailstock) you may have the 405 also. I'm screwed trying to find chucks or faceplates.I've been looking at Ebay for five years or so!! And there is a ton of South Bend 9" parts on there. I can't even read the lines on my rusty pitted dials eitther. Cut & measure, cut & measure

    The MT2 drills & reamers are the cats ass!!
    " Save a tree...........Eat A Beaver!"

  2. #242
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    i HAVE THE 1 3/8 OR SOME THING CLOSE. THE HEAD STOCK THROUGH HOLE IS RIGHT AT .750"

    i HAVE A 4 JAW AN A FACE PLATE OF SOME SORT. I CONSIDERED ACTUALY MAKING THE FACE PLATE INTO A MOUNTING PLATE FOR A THREE JAW.

    I THINK MINE WAS MADE IN 1934 OR SO .

    I HAVE A 12 " CLAUSING SITTING HERE WITH TEMKIN BEARINGS THAT WOULD BE BETTER IF I EVER TOOK THE TIME TO GET A MOTOR ON IT AN GET IT ALL CLEANED UP. IT SHPULD BE COMPLETLY CONE THROUGH IMO. IT USES A STANDARD 1.5" SPINDEL.

  3. #243
    TRX
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    Part of the delay on my Beowulf project is the .875 spindle bore on my lathe. I have to do all the work over the ways with a steady rest. The bed is 60" long, but first I had to modify the steady that came with the lathe, since it didn't actually fit this lathe. I have some of the through-the-bore oiler stuff done, and the oil catch tray welded up, and an oil pump. I still have to source a motor for the pump. Oh, and the main motor on the lathe is dying, but I managed to snag a nice three phase motor for free, except I had to buy a Variable-Frequency Drive for it. Well, I could have used the phase converter I already have, but true variable speed was a big attraction. And then I decided the first steady rest wasn't good enough, and I'm partway through building a ball bearing steady using a giant ball bearing pillow block.

    I have several barrels to chamber, when I get all the above sorted out...

    Brad, I can chamber your barrel for you if can wait.

  4. #244
    Always sore, always tired Bradrock's Avatar
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    Thanks TRX. I've been at this a few YEARS now & have not really gotten anywhere . So chambering is way down the road.
    Another issue has popped up as I carve out the receiver shell.
    With the .223 mags being a bit smaller from front to back, it messes me up at the mag catch. I don't know what they do on the .223 AK's? Move the whole trigger guard assembly forward a bit? Or is the reciever itself shorter in front so the trunnion is a hair closer to the rear of magwell?? I'm leaning towards just extending the mag catch plate forward a tad.

    Just when I think I'm getting somewhere, another bug pops up!
    " Save a tree...........Eat A Beaver!"

  5. #245
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    Part of the delay on my Beowulf project is the .875 spindle bore on my lathe. I have to do all the work over the ways with a steady rest
    JUST TURN IT ON CENTERS. I JUST TURN A MANDREL FOR THJE CHUCK IN AN DRIVE THE BARREL WITH A DOG. PROFILE THE ONE END AN THEN FLIP IT AROUND.

    i HAVE NEVER SEEN THE NEED TO NEED A FLUSH SYSTEM. MANY GUYS JUST CHAMBER WITH A TAP HANDEL MY SELF INCLUDED. THERE ARE LOTS OF REPRTS OF FLOATING REAMER HOLDERS STICKING OR ALLOWING THE REAMER TO DROP. I WAS SUPRISED HOW MANY BENCH REST SHOOTERS USE JUST A TAP AHNDEL OR SOME THING LIKE THAT. THE PILOT WILL FOLLOW THE BORE. SOME GUYS JUST USE A FLAT PUSHER AN A BALL BEARING INTHE TAIL STOCK.

    I JUST BLOW OUT THE CHAMBER WITH AIR REOIL AN REINSERT ABOUT EVERY 20 SECONDS OR SO. I HAVE NEVER HAD A ISSUE AN MY CHAMBERS ARE PRETTY CONCENTRIC. I LIKE TO BE ABLE TO PULL THE REAMER OUT IN SECONDS CHECK THINGS ESPECIALY WHEN YOUR ALMOST DONE. PULLING THE TAIL STOCK BACKIS A PAIN.

    With the .223 mags being a bit smaller from front to back, it messes me up at the mag catch. I don't know what they do on the .223 AK's? Move the whole trigger guard assembly forward a bit? Or is the reciever itself shorter in front so the trunnion is a hair closer to the rear of magwell?? I'm leaning towards just extending the mag catch plate forward a tad.
    HMMMM IM NOT FOLLOWING YOU HERE. THE 223 MAGS I HAVE ARE ALL LONGER FRONT TO REAR THAN A X39 MAGS. ????? I HAVE BULGY COMPOSITE FROM KVAIR BUT GALIL AN WORK WELL ALSO AN EVEN PROMAG.

    X39 IS 2.561 FROM CUT IN THE FRONT TO THE BASE OF THE REAR TAB WERE IT HITS THE RECIVER. BULGY 223 IS 2.628" MEASURED WITH CALIPERS.

    ARE YOU USING CHINEASE MAGS OR SOME THING??????

    ON MY BUILDS USING TAPCO RECIVERS FLATS I JUST MOVE THE TRIGGER GUARD AN SELECTOR STOP REARWARD. AS I RECALL I HAD TO GRIND THE RECIVER A LITTLE.

    ILL CHECK A FEW OF MY GALIL.

    BTW APEX HAS 35 ROUND GALIL MAGS PRETTY CHEAP THERE A LITTLE BEAT UP BUT WORKABLE. LIKE $10 EACH.

    AFTER FURTHER RIVIEW I SEE THAT MY GALIL MAGS ARE ABOUT THE SAME AS A X39 AN EVEN SNAP INTO MY AMD 65. THE BULGYS ARE LONGER THAN EVERY THING AN MY GUNS ARE SET TO FIT THEM BUT THE GALILS AN PROMAGS FIT AN FUNCTION JUST FINE IN FACT THE GALIL 10 ROUNDERS ( OR WHAT EVER THEY ARE) STILL FIT JUST FINE AN ARE MY FAVORITE MAGS IN 223.

    I JUST PULLED MY VARMINT 223 THATS ON A TAPCO AN IT LOOKS LIKE I JUST GROUND THE STOP AN RECIVER BACK UNTIL THE MAG FIT. IT WAS 6 YEARS AGO AN I WAS IN A REALLY BIG HURRY WHEN I DID IT.

    I GAN GET A 223 LOADED TO 2.265 IN A BULGY MAG I HAVE TO GO ABOUT 2.55 IN THE GALIL MAGS.

    OF THE 10 MAGS I JUST DRUG OUT THE 15 ROUND AMD 65 X39 MAG IS THE SHORTEST FROM WERE THE FRONT LUG HITS HOOKS IN AN THE REAR LUG HITS THE SELECTOR STOP.

    ID FIT IT FOR A BULGY AN THEN YOU CAN RUN THOSE OR GALIL MAGS. FEEL FREE TO PM ME IF YOU WANT EVEN MORE SPECIFIC SPECS. . BTW ONE GALIL MAG EVEN FITS INTO MY AMD 65 IN 7.62X39 BETTER NOT DO THAT WHEN ZOMBIES ATTACK.

    ARE YOU HAVING ISSUES WITHT HE TOP REAR OF THE MAG HITTING AS IT ROTATES IN POSSABLY??? I SEE THAT SOME TIMES AN HAD TO GIVE A LITTTEL MORE ROOM AN i EVEN TRIMMED THE REAR CORNERS ON A FEW BULGYS TO ALLOW THEM TO SWING IN.

    IMO THE BULGYS ARE NOT THE MOST CONSISTANT i HAVE AHD TO FIT MANY OF THEM BT MY GUN WAS BUILT PRETTY TIGHT. . IL LIKE THE STEEL GALIL BEST. I HAVEN ACTUALY FIRED THE 35 ROUNDERS IN MY VARMINT RIG AS i GOT THEM LATE THIS SUMMER BUT THEY LOCK IN OK AN SEEM IDENTICAL TO THE PROVEN 10 ROUDERS
    ( MIGHT BE 12 OR SO)

  6. #246
    3/6 Infantry mtdew's Avatar
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    TRX, I know a local FFL holder that does transfers for $20. I know its probably a little late for this project but maybe for future builds/ gun purchases...Jimmy Robinson Enterprises Inc, 921 Woody Dr, Alexander, AR 72015 501-847-1029
    I am glad I found him cause I was sick of the high fees some were charging.
    "NA BEAN DON CHAT GUN LAMHAINN"
    Clan MacPherson
    "CREAG DHUBH"!

  7. #247
    TRX
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    I have a Polish .223 magazine, but I really need to modify the trunnion to take Galil magazines, which are way cheaper. The difference is the height of the front lug; the Galil is a bit higher due to the slant cut.

    The though-the-headstock oiler and ball bearing steady aren't just for the Beowulf; I have several rifles and a couple of pistols waiting for barrels. And half of the fun is making the tools, you know?

  8. #248
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    I have several rifles and a couple of pistols waiting for barrels. And half of the fun is making the tools, you know?
    IF ITS SEMI AUTO ID GET IT DONE NOW AN WORRY ABOUT THE OTHER STUFF LATER. AFTER A LAW CHANGE YOU WONT LIKELY LEGALY BE BUILDING ANYTHING. ID MAKE IT LOOK LIKE A GUN NOW AN WORRY ABOUT THE CHAMBER LATER.

    I THINK BEING ABLE TO FEEL THE REAMER AN BEABLE TO EASLY INSPECT THE CHAMBER EASLY BY JUST PULLING IT OUT CUT IS A LOT MORE IMPORTANT THAN A FLUSH SYSTEM AN HAVING TO WIND BACK THE TAILS STOCK AN ALL THAT. A LOT OF RECORD SETTING BENCH REST SHOOTERS DONT USE ANY THINF BUT A T HANDEL AN CUTTING OIL. THEY ALSO WHEN DONE PULL THE REAMER TO ONE SIDE BRIEFLY. I HAVE READ UP ON BOTH SIDES. SOME GUYS CLAIM ONLY A PERFECT CENTERED BORE AN A REAMER IN A CHUCK IS ACCURATE OTHERS SAY A FLOATING REAMER AN OTHERS DO IT WITH A TAP WRENCH. MY FAVORITE SMITH USES A CLAMP ON HANDEL DEAL THAT DOES NOT USE THE SGUARE END OF THE REAMER HE SAYS THAT WAY IF SOME THING GOES WRONG THE REAMER WILL JUST SLIP IN THE TOOL. ANOTHER USES A ENGINE VALVE FACED FLAT IN A CHUCK AN A BALL BEARING AS A PUSHER.

    IMO IF THE PILOT IS TIGHT THE REAMER IS GOING TO CUT FINE AS IT HAS TO FOLLOW THE THE BORE. IMO AS LONG AS THE NECK AN THROAT ARE TIGHT FITTING AN TRU TOT HE BORE THE RIFLE WILL BE ACCURATE. ITS PRETTY HARD TO GET A OUT OF CONTRIC NECK AN THROAT WITH A GOOD FITTING PILOT EVEN IF YOU HAVE SIDE PRESSURE ITS STILL GOING TO BE CENTERED ALBIT IT MAY BE TAPERED AN OVER SIZE.

    HOW DOES A FLUSH SYSTEM GET THE OIL PAST THE PILOT ????? DOE IT JSUT GO THROUGH THE RIFLEING GROVES?? I LIKE TO BE ABLE CLEAN SUPER EASY AN CHCK WITH A GUAGE A LOT DURING THE LAST .100". IF I WAS DOING A HUNDRED BARRELS I COULD SEE IT BUT FOR A FEW A MONTH IM NOT SURE IF ITS WORTH IT. I DONT KNOW IF YOU ARE GAINING ANYHTING IN OTHER WORDS. IT DOSNET TAKE LONG TO CUT A CHAMBER IN A LATHE EVEN CHECKING EVERY .025" . NOT SAYING ITS A BAD THING I JUST DONT SEE WHY ID NEED ONE AN ID DO ABOUT 4 BARRELS A MONTH OR MORE.

    I have a Polish .223 magazine, but I really need to modify the trunnion to take Galil magazines, which are way cheaper. The difference is the height of the front lug; the Galil is a bit higher due to the slant cut.


    HMMM IM RUNNING GALIL MAGS ON MY 223 USING A ROMMY X39 TRUNION WITH NO MODS TO THE TRUNION OTHER THAN THE BULLET GUIDE . IM COMPARING A GALIL TO A BULGY MAG RIGHT NOW AN I SEE NO DIFFERANCES IN THE POSITION OF THE LUGS. SAME AS A PROMAG ALSO. i CANT RUN CHINESE MAGS HOWEVER.

    WHAT TRUNION ARE YOU USING ?????? THE GALIL MAGS WILL NOT FIT INTO A BULGY 5.45 WITH OUT MODS BUT THEY FIT A ROMMY AN HUNGARIAN TRUNION FOR SURE. IM NOT SEEING THE DIFFERANCES. THE GUN IN MY ADVIATE IS FITTED WITH A 10 ROUND GALIL AN IT ALSO USES BULGY 223,S

    INFACT SOME OF MY GALIL MAGS WILL FIT IN MY 7.62 X39 BUILDS WITH NO MODS. THE BULGY MAGS ARE A LITTEL BIT LONGER AN WONT. I SEE LITTEL DIFFERANCE BETWEEN THEM AN A X39 MAG AS FAR AS LUG OR SLOT HEIGHT.

  9. #249
    TRX
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    On the Hadar build, where I'm duplicating the slant cut receiver so it will fit into the Hadar II stock, the latch surface is even with the bottom of the slant. To get some meat under it, the surface needs to come up at least .060, more if you want a chamfer on the bottom.

    On Valmet.org, the word is that the Valmet/Galil/R1 mags have the front lug higher, to match the raised mating surface in the front. Sometimes a regular AK mag will work, sometimes it won't. The problem seems to be the feed angle as much as magazine retention.

    Going the other way, with a Galil mag in a conventional AK, might not be a problem.

    Of course, if you have a .223 magwell, you can use one of the snap-on STANAG adapters and use conventional AR-15 mags, which are cheap and easy to find. They were originally developed for the Israeli army, so they'd probably have the Galil front lug.

  10. #250
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    Hmmm I see no differance between the galie an bulgy mags. Ill measure. From the top of the reciver down on both when i can maybe I'm missing something. As i recall your using rpk trunnion on this seems that it would need no mods if rommy works.

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