.50 Beowulf? - Page 3
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Thread: .50 Beowulf?

  1. #21
    TRX
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    You sure like putting thumbprints on my rose-colored glasses... looks like the first AK parts I need to program for the CNC are oversized barrel hardware.

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    Xxxc
    Last edited by 1biggun; 05-21-2016 at 12:06 PM.

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    Xxxx
    Last edited by 1biggun; 05-21-2016 at 12:07 PM.

  4. #24
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    Several places list Beowulf brass, quite cheap, too. The barrel won't be cheap - I found .458 barrel blanks under $100, but .501 blanks are much more.

    I don't see anything wrong with your gas block; I was thinking of using pinch bolts too.

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    Xxxx
    Last edited by 1biggun; 05-21-2016 at 12:08 PM.

  6. #26
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    Bits:

    Pac-Nor .500" barrel $230. The AA website says the official spec for the Beowulf is .501 +/- .0004. I'll talk to Pac-Nor about this. They sell extra length by the inch; I'd be tempted to order a long enough barrel to cut in half and make two 16s, or a 16 and an SBR.

    Most ".50" barrels seem to be .510, to work with the late-1800s .50-70, etc.

    Lee die set: $31, various places

    Beowulf brass, $55 for 100 from Impact Guns. Midway's web site now says "discontinued" for most ammo-related Beowulf stuff.

    Jacketed bullets seem to run in the $22-$25 range and up for boxes of 50. Good thing I'm planning to use cast bullets...

    Making a reamer from scratch still doesn't look that hard; it's only a .010" taper, jeez. My best bet might be to buy some pipe or 4140 bar stock and experiment on that instead of a real barrel.

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    Xxxxc
    Last edited by 1biggun; 05-21-2016 at 12:09 PM.

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    Xxxc
    Last edited by 1biggun; 05-21-2016 at 12:09 PM.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1biggun View Post
    Have you seen this??
    Yes; it's the first thing that pops up when I search for "homemade chamber reamer." Looks like he does it the same way as some of the old gunsmithing books recommend.

  10. #30
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    >I cant see why the chamber coud not be cut on a lathe with
    > boring bar and the tool post set at the aproperate angle.

    It would work, and I have some old machining books that show similar operations. You'd have to offset the steady rest and tie the drive dog to the faceplace with shoelaces, and for some reason I'm leery of the whole thing. I don't have enough travel on the cross slide to do an accurate job that way.


    > my plan was to cut the freebore/bullet lead with a much
    > cheaper throating reamer (around $40)

    I found a couple of places that claim to make piloted taper reamers for regular machine tools. I'll contact them later in the week and see what they'd want for a reamer.


    > I was looking at the extra long blank idea as well and
    > doing a rifle and a pistol . or say getting a 30" blank and
    > doing two 14" barrels and then adding perminate muzzel
    > breaks on for the extra length to be legal.

    Well, duh! I never thought of adding a muzzle brake...

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