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Thread: .50 Beowulf?

  1. #21
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    You sure like putting thumbprints on my rose-colored glasses... looks like the first AK parts I need to program for the CNC are oversized barrel hardware.

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    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    You sure like putting thumbprints on my rose-colored glasses... looks like the first AK parts I need to program for the CNC are oversized barrel hardware.

    Trust me I have thought out your build in my head more than a few times in the last few years. Not trying to put a damper on your build infact just the oposite. The barrel pin hitting the chamber has held me back. with your threaded barrel reciver you have a good starting point.

    I suspect you could sell a few over sized barrrel gas blocks if you gould make them cheap. I need one for my 444???? project. I have considerd doing just that but on a hand cranked mill it would not be cheap if I sold them. you mention having CNC that would change every thing. I would go with a standard size bore but just add more meat around it so builders could bore/drill it to what ever barrel they desired.

    if the inside deminsions of a L1A1 gas block would work that would be your easiest route an give you adjustabilty. the hight differance is minimal and it culd be ran as is with some slop or a of set piston head could be made to correct the slight misalignment.

    on my varmit build I went to a lot of effort to make a tight fitting bore that hald the piston for around a 1.5" in a effort to be able to make the port smaller.

    IMOO sourcing a 50 beowulf would be the first step. If you find a reamer let me know Id be interestd in having a barrel chamberd.

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    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    here was my solution to a big barrel OD. its on a 223 varmit barrel. its to heavy and to big and was built in a hurry it has the piston riding in it for 1.5", the next one will be aluminum with a stainless bore sleave and smaller physicaly. If a AR block will hold up to hot gases so should a AK block. the bore would need to be steel or stainless steel to retard the piston wear.

  4. #24
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    Several places list Beowulf brass, quite cheap, too. The barrel won't be cheap - I found .458 barrel blanks under $100, but .501 blanks are much more.

    I don't see anything wrong with your gas block; I was thinking of using pinch bolts too.

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    I used pinch Bolts so I could get off easly to drill the gas port in steps untill it functioned. I also didnt want to have any cross cut areas in the barrel that might affect accuracy and barrel harmonics. that block is pretty heavy for a carried weapon. a block could be as simple as a rectangular block with a barrel hole and a piston bore. drill the port through the bottem and simle cross pin would work fine. Im going to make up a simpler lighter one for my next build a stainless barrel 7.62x39 sporter. the custom block on the 500 S&W is really nice and adjustable its pretty slick with a rotating drum in it.

  6. #26
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    Bits:

    Pac-Nor .500" barrel $230. The AA website says the official spec for the Beowulf is .501 +/- .0004. I'll talk to Pac-Nor about this. They sell extra length by the inch; I'd be tempted to order a long enough barrel to cut in half and make two 16s, or a 16 and an SBR.

    Most ".50" barrels seem to be .510, to work with the late-1800s .50-70, etc.

    Lee die set: $31, various places

    Beowulf brass, $55 for 100 from Impact Guns. Midway's web site now says "discontinued" for most ammo-related Beowulf stuff.

    Jacketed bullets seem to run in the $22-$25 range and up for boxes of 50. Good thing I'm planning to use cast bullets...

    Making a reamer from scratch still doesn't look that hard; it's only a .010" taper, jeez. My best bet might be to buy some pipe or 4140 bar stock and experiment on that instead of a real barrel.

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    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    Making a reamer from scratch still doesn't look that hard; it's only a .010" taper, jeez. My best bet might be to buy some pipe or 4140 bar stock and experiment on that instead of a real barrel.
    that is about the same amount of taper as the 444??? project. the round head spaces off the case mouth so that part of the chamber needs to be a sharp edge.

    I have been thinking of doing the same thing with a old mauser barrel drilled or bored out. I cant see why the chamber coud not be cut on a lathe with boring bar and the tool post set at the aproperate angle. with a 1/2 hole to work with there shlould be pleanty of room to work with. my plan was to cut the freebore/bullet lead with a much cheaper throating reamer (around $40) and then bore the very small extra with bar. Of course the set up would have to be perfectly centerd no floating reamer holder stuff here. a old gunsmith said that back in the day it was not un comon for chmbers to be bored on things like 45/70,s and all those old blck powder rounds. your tool post would need around 2" of travel or if you have a taper attachment that would possably work.

    I was looking at the extra long blank idea as well and doing a rifle and a pistol . or say getting a 30" blank and doing two 14" barrels and then adding perminate muzzel breaks on for the extra length to be legal. I will want a break on any of these big bore builds.
    I bought a take off barrel for a 458 SOCOM project. there much easier to come by as the 458 win mag will work.

  8. #28
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    Have you seen this??

    How I make chamber reamers

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1biggun View Post
    Have you seen this??
    Yes; it's the first thing that pops up when I search for "homemade chamber reamer." Looks like he does it the same way as some of the old gunsmithing books recommend.

  10. #30
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    >I cant see why the chamber coud not be cut on a lathe with
    > boring bar and the tool post set at the aproperate angle.

    It would work, and I have some old machining books that show similar operations. You'd have to offset the steady rest and tie the drive dog to the faceplace with shoelaces, and for some reason I'm leery of the whole thing. I don't have enough travel on the cross slide to do an accurate job that way.


    > my plan was to cut the freebore/bullet lead with a much
    > cheaper throating reamer (around $40)

    I found a couple of places that claim to make piloted taper reamers for regular machine tools. I'll contact them later in the week and see what they'd want for a reamer.


    > I was looking at the extra long blank idea as well and
    > doing a rifle and a pistol . or say getting a 30" blank and
    > doing two 14" barrels and then adding perminate muzzel
    > breaks on for the extra length to be legal.

    Well, duh! I never thought of adding a muzzle brake...

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