All of the bullet core molds I have in my swaging kit are custom deals. Use some aluminum blocks in the appropriate size, index them so as they mate properly, and thread them for set screws for the handles.
The trick would, IMO, be to set them on the lathe and/or build a custom cutter. A custom cutter on a milling machine would be... troublesome. Best, IMO, to use a lathe with an appropriate mounting plate. Your cutting process would be in reality a boring operation, as you're going to bore out the holes. You'd be doing it with a custom boring bit vs. one of those indexable boring heads. It will be a bore! lol
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The "original" Boltcutter Rivet Squeezers:
Project Pink - the Pink and Blue AK-74:
Last edited by 1biggun; 05-21-2016 at 01:13 PM.
I went to the Lee page and ordered the Minie ball mould and the Beowulf die set. Took a while to find it because they spelled it wrong. Also picked up another tube of case lube, since my old one has dried out in the 20+ years since I last used it...
The first order of the day will be to cast a Minie ball and load it into a Beowulf case. Then I'll know whether the grease groove will be an issue.
Every time I think "Minie ball" and "AK" I think of that really bad book by Harry Turtledove...
>with the chamber you will need the free bore in front of the
>bullet to have the aproperite angle at it transitons into the
>rifleing this is important to avoid high pressure.
I've found some benchest commentary on this, but mostly of the "My Way Is The Only True Way And Anyone Who Questions It Will Be Struck By Bolts Of Lightning" type. The Minie is a fat, stubby bullet, so I think I should be looking more at what kind of angle is used by barrels chambered for similar bullets. That would be more like .45 ACP, I think. Now to find out what the angle would be for an ACP...
> you will have to or should cut the throat as well as the
> neck of the chamber with a piloted reamer. these are not
> super expensive although I have not looked at .50 stuff.
I was planning to do all of the cuts with the chambering reamer, if possible. That would guarantee everything was concentric. Would there be an advantage to doing it separately?
Modern thinking seems to be that the bullet should touch, or nearly touch, the rifling when the cartridge is chambered. The old guys liked lots of freebore.
> I would call a few places for a reamer befroe trying to
> make one.
I'd happily pay $150 for a properly made chambering reamer. I ass-umed no reputable company would grind one, given Alexander Arms' patent, trademark, and Black Mall Ninja Helicopters of Doom.
Since I'm going to have to make the gas block from scratch, I figured it might as well be adjustable. Several people have converted FAL L1A1 gas blocks, and the Saiga-12 uses an adjustable gas block.
Would anyone like to make a case for the use of one type over the other? (or any other adjustable block, for that matter)
An FAL block would be easiest to obtain for use as a pattern, but I'm open to suggestions.
I think I just discovered the parent case for the .50 Beowulf - the 11.2 x 72 Schuler.
rim .445 .469
base .535 .536
neck .525 .510 (at shoulder)
OAL 1.65 2.80
Other than the rim size, you could cut a Schuler case, run it through Beowulf dies, and make Beowulf brass, other than the rim, which is 8mm Mauser size, close enough to standard American "large base."
So you'd have to have a reamer made for a 12.7 x 54 Schuler Short, and you'd be ready to go...
Magazine curvature: the 5.45 mag should curve more than a .223, and both should curve more than an ideal Beowulf mag. But I'm betting a 5.45 mag will work well enough. The mag, bullet mold, and brass are on the way, so I'll know for sure soon. Ssooonnnn...
Beowulf .535/.525 over 1.65 .010/1.65
5.45 .394/.370 over 1.18 .024/1.18
.223 .376/.354 over 1.76 .022/1.76
Last edited by 1biggun; 05-21-2016 at 01:15 PM.
The Yugo M76 has an adjustable gas block you could pattern yours after as well as a few others I know of that aren't mentioned.
Last edited by 1biggun; 05-21-2016 at 01:16 PM.