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Thread: scratch build 7.62x25 on ak reciver blow back

  1. #11
    TRX
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    How about something along this line:

    ordinary AK receiver and rails

    custom front trunnion with hole for guide rod.

    custom bolt - you could saw the slots in the sides, or mill steps in a second piece and bolt or weld it together

    AK firing pin, extractor

    press barrel in so it lines up with the magazine feed lips, as needed


    In my sketches of a "mostly homebuilt blowback AK" I always run into trouble with the top cover, RSB, GB, and handguard bits. The AK stuff is complex since Kalashnikov wanted everything to come off without tools for cleaning; if you can simplify things it would be easier to build.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TRX View Post
    AK firing pin, extractor
    It would be easy to use an AK extractor if you have a mill. The AR firing pin is easier to make work, the pin to retain it can be less precisely located and it'll still work. Maybe a FAL firing pin, it has a spring, and would be somewhat easy to make the hole for, so long as you have a few different size drill bits.

  3. #13
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    It would be easy to use an AK extractor if you have a mill. The AR firing pin is easier to make work, the pin to retain it can be less precisely located and it'll still work. Maybe a FAL firing pin, it has a spring, and would be somewhat easy to make the hole for, so long as you have a few different size drill bits.
    Im staring at a striped bolt and extractor from a AK an d thinking the factory style is doable. IM not real fermilular with the AR stuff I have a couple striped lowers and perhaps now is the time to order some of the parts for my ARs so I can study them.

    Im looking for componets that are inexpensive. i want to keep costs down on the stuff I dont make. im open for ideas on ejectors, extractors, pins and springs. I have a mill and lathes so I can make most of what I need I just would rather use a made part if there cheap. what does a Iuzi use to extract or some other gun there

    How a
    ordinary AK receiver and rails

    custom front trunnion with hole for guide rod.

    custom bolt - you could saw the slots in the sides, or mill steps in a second piece and bolt or weld it together

    AK firing pin, extractor

    press barrel in so it lines up with the magazine feed lips, as neededbout something along this line:
    I can and will be able to use a ordanary reciver like a NDS 3 or bent flat. the trunion location and bolt length would be the only differanses. if I can cut two inches of a reciver and still make it work I will. how ever a standard reciver and a longer trunion or just pressing the barrel back would acomplish the same thing and allow a 4-5inch barrel abd still be a short gun with little barrel in front of the reciver. I just think a shorter reciver might look better. I am already planning on a custom bolt and have a mill for the grooves. a two piece ricever will work but Im trying to build some thing a little better or fancyer. I may try to sell few parts down the road and I want it to be right. the pistol may very well be a guide rod build. I have some ideas Im saving untill I get it all on the bench. all your ideas are good and along the lines of what im doing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1biggun View Post
    Im staring at a striped bolt and extractor from a AK an d thinking the factory style is doable. IM not real fermilular with the AR stuff I have a couple striped lowers and perhaps now is the time to order some of the parts for my ARs so I can study them.
    The AR firing pin has a rear travel stop that is just a huge ring near the end, you just put a pin across it and the pin goes nowhere. With the AK the pin has to be located pretty precisely.

    Here, I'll get a link to a pic of an AR firing pin to show what I'm talking about, in case you haven't seen one. http://sttgl.com/30060901/page%20gra...ring%20pin.jpg

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    Crazy Norwegian Sid_Vicious's Avatar
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    What about a pistolextraktor? It only need a slot you can make with a hacksaw and two holes drilled one for a pin and one slightly bigger for a spring.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sid_Vicious View Post
    What about a pistolextraktor? It only need a slot you can make with a hacksaw and two holes drilled one for a pin and one slightly bigger for a spring.
    That is pretty much what the AK extractor needs, only without the slot. Wish I had thought of using AK parts back when I made my bolt, ended up milling like an eighth of the weight off to throw a AR extractor on it, now my bolt is probably too light.

  7. #17
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    What about a pistolextraktor? It only need a slot you can make with a hacksaw and two holes drilled one for a pin and one slightly bigger for a spring.
    any links?

    Here, I'll get a link to a pic of an AR firing pin to show what I'm talking about, in case you haven't seen one. http://sttgl.com/30060901/page%20gra...ring%20pin.jpg

    Thanks for the link knowing whats out there and what it looks like is half the battel. so what exactly are firing pins mad of how ard are they?? will drill rod that benn hardend work. I like how the ar has a bulge in it to but a spring in front of. I want a spring loaded firing pin I think. How hard are the factory primers??

    for the carrier assembly im thinking of possably a carrer made from normal steel with a hole drilled through it that a bolt possabply a choulder bolt like mentioned before could bb inserted into and either pinned in place or have a nut on the back. then it can be changed or even shimmed to agjust head space ect. Im thinking square block with two holes one for the recoil spring to go into and one for the bolt to insert into aand some slots on the sides milled to fit through the mag lips. and to jit the hammer correctly and all that. I got to get some ammo a reamer and some barrel blanks fist. although I could do a 9mm with what I have on hand to get the bugs worked out and figure what will work.

  8. #18
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    You will need a spring loaded firing pin if you use a standard ar15 firing pin. I just use a spring thats fairly close to a suomi sear spring when I convert a suomi bolt to semi. Since the bolt stops suddenly a lighter spring (or no spring) can allow the firing pin to move foreward enough to set off the chambered round. I tested several springs and ended up going with a heavy .028" diameter wire spring which kept the firing pin from leaving much except a slight mark on the winchester and remington sp primers I used. Since you have access to a mill and a lathe why not just make your own firing pin? Drill rod will more than adequate and if you're trying to make your gun a little shorter, the longer ar15 pin might not be the way to go. The ar15 firing pin tip is rather short which means you're pretty close to the bolt face when you drill out the firing pin channel from the back. A firing pin with a longer tip might make it easier to drill out the firing pin channel. You could make the pin to fit your bolt, and not the other way around.

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    What I did was grind off the front little pin part, and just made it use the slightly wider part. It removes the chrome plating but it doesn't matter that much as I used a non chromed one anyways.

    The AR pin doesn't have a spring on it normally, the x25 primers are probably pretty hard, just like x39 primers. I have no trouble with an AR and commercial primers, putting a round in the chamber and dropping the bolt on it [worst case scenario] just leaves a tiny dimple not even the full diameter of the firing pin.

    On my build I also used a spring, as .45 might have pretty soft primers. It is easy to drill a pocket in the back of the bolt for the large ring, to just the right depth for it to act as a stop, then drill a deeper hole in the same axis with a 1/4" bit for the spring.
    Also you don't have to worry about the hammer coming to rest at the end of the firing pin's motion on an AR pin as that is how it works in an AR.

  10. #20
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    You will need a spring loaded firing pin if you use a standard ar15 firing pin. I just use a spring thats fairly close to a suomi sear spring when I convert a suomi bolt to semi. Since the bolt stops suddenly a lighter spring (or no spring) can allow the firing pin to move foreward enough to set off the chambered round. I tested several springs and ended up going with a heavy .028" diameter wire spring which kept the firing pin from leaving much except a slight mark on the winchester and remington sp primers I used. Since you have access to a mill and a lathe why not just make your own firing pin? Drill rod will more than adequate and if you're trying to make your gun a little shorter, the longer ar15 pin might not be the way to go. The ar15 firing pin tip is rather short which means you're pretty close to the bolt face when you drill out the firing pin channel from the back. A firing pin with a longer tip might make it easier to drill out the firing pin channel. You could make the pin to fit your bolt, and not the other way around.
    a spring loaded pin it will be then.

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