scratch build 7.62x25 on ak reciver blow back - Page 4
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Thread: scratch build 7.62x25 on ak reciver blow back

  1. #31
    Gunco Regular mrtank's Avatar
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  2. #32
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    Xxxxx
    Last edited by 1biggun; 05-20-2016 at 09:31 PM.

  3. #33
    Gunco Veteran [486]'s Avatar
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    Well, I just remembered that I got a luger barrel for free because it has a ring in it, someone with a barrel wrench got a little excited... I'll make one of them 24Hr AKs, it'll be easy having a mill at my disposal. I figure if it ain't accurate it won't matter much, as the barrel was free and the materials wouldn't be all that much...

    EDIT: The Orion's hammer guy is the one that made an AR lower out of a cutting board!

  4. #34
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    Xxxx
    Last edited by 1biggun; 05-20-2016 at 09:32 PM.

  5. #35
    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    1biggun, I don't think you should spend the money on a 74 bolt. Look here and see how this bushing fits a 47 bolt to size it down for x25 & 9mm, you can see the ejector will hit just the edge of the case.
    '+windowtitle+'
    "Government is not the solution to our problem, government is the problem" Ronald Reagan

  6. #36
    TRX
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1biggun View Post
    Im on the fence as well about if a mild steel bolt will be okor the trunion for that matter.
    ...
    Ill likley do a mild steel proof on design carrier first and see how it goes.
    Perzackitly.

    Use plain old chicken-wire grade 1018 or 1020 mild steel to prototype with. It's easy to machine and cheap. Use those to debug the design. Any deformation will tell you exactly where you need a harder metal, carburizing, or whatever.

    I don't see that the trunnion would have to be anything other than mild steel; all it's doing is holding the barrel to the receiver. Unless you get radical skeletonizing it, it'll still be way stronger than the screws or rivets holding it to the receiver.

    If the bolt slides back and forth like an AK bolt carrier, that's a lot of area to slide. That might not be an issue. You might need to heat treat the area where the hammer hits, or you might could just built it up a bit with some MIG weld and grind it back down; ordinary ER70 wire is a lot harder than mild steel.

    (unsolicited advice) Build something that will fire reliably, then worry about how long it lasts before parts get peened, mushroomed, or egged. If you get too much invested in a particular design, it gets harder to backtrack and start over if you find a better way.

  7. #37
    TRX
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    Quote Originally Posted by [486] View Post
    EDIT: The Orion's hammer guy is the one that made an AR lower out of a cutting board!
    Someone over there made several out of wood. Not fancy wood either.

    I have a tendency of over-think or over-design things. If you go down that route far enough, you will eventually complicate things enough that you just give up. Which is why I developed a new mantra: "Perfect is the enemy of good enough." The AK is a shining example of that philosophy.

  8. #38
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    Xxxc
    Last edited by 1biggun; 05-20-2016 at 09:33 PM.

  9. #39
    Gunco Veteran [486]'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1biggun View Post
    Im concernd about the hammering that the carrier will do on the trunion when it closes on a empty chamber. there is going to be a pretty good impact. but like you mentioned its got to be stronger than the screws or rivets is a good point.
    Good thought. I'll have to put some 1/8" rubber gasket material on the trunnion where the bolt would hit it, the barrel I have is chambered with 1/8" of cartridge out the back, so I figure it'd close far enough on a round, but would have the rubber as a cushion at the end of the mag.
    Last edited by [486]; 08-06-2009 at 05:38 PM.

  10. #40
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    I came up with a modification to the bolt on the orion's hammer build.


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