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Thread: .30-'06 conversion notes

  1. #51
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    wouldent be easier to just make a trunion and bolt with bigger lugs and then not need all this third lug BS. I really need to get mine out and shoot it, IMOO its a POS from the factory the carrier hits the RSB and it james up tight right at bolt lock up. there aare somany sharp eges on it I have cut my hans twice on differant parts the mag catch does not work properly and the trigger is joke, wost of aany fire arm Ive ever owned my kids red ryder is better. I honestly dont know why people buy these aside from there a AK varaint. the gun is horraable in its current form. to me its a bunch of parts right out of the box.

  2. #52
    TRX
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bradrock View Post
    So............Can your basic Rockwell hardness tester tell the difference between case/surface hardening & deep heat treat?
    No, the Rockwell probe only measures the hardness at the point it contacts the part, which is the surface unless you grind or drill the contact point.

    To measure the hardness through a bolt would require destroying a sample bolt.
    Last edited by TRX; 01-04-2010 at 08:59 PM. Reason: spelling

  3. #53
    TRX
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    I just found out some Valmets and .308 Galils used a bolt with a slot for the extractor instead of the drilled hole most AKMs use. The extractors look identical to Saiga extractors, at least in the pictures.

    These are supposed to be a Romanian 7.63x39, a .223 Galil, and a .308 Galil. I found the picture somewhere online.
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  4. #54
    TRX
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    I managed to steal a few hours in the shop today. The G diameter counterbore fits the spring on the Polytech sprung firing pin I have, and there's a #14 hole to the correct depth. It took the full length of the drill bit to make it. The firing pin hole will come in from the other side.

    The Polytech pin won't actually work with a long nose bolt since it's too short, but I can use it as a pattern to make another.

    I used a sharp-pointed tool for most of the metal removal, and a large radius for the last .005. Not as much trouble with tearing or smearing as some of the online sources made out. Drilled okay, too. 4140 makes small chips, more like cast iron than stringy 1018 steel. I polished the stem with emery cloth and steel wool after cutting to size.
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  5. #55
    tired of idiots vz58's Avatar
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    Nice, sorry I posted and ran about the carpenter steel, I should have said it was a company. Here is the email:

    Hello,
    EXTENSION - 15N—89-91 (CONVERTED WOULD BE RC 57-62), MATERIAL 8620 STEEL.
    BOLT – 15N—89-90.5 (CONVERTED WOULD BE RC 57-60.5), MATERIAL 158 CARPENTER STEEL.

    Thank you,

    Jim Eden
    Technical Support
    Bushmaster Firearms International, LLC
    Office: 1-800-883-6229 ext. 277
    Fax: 207-892-8068



    I meant to come back and post it. sorry.

  6. #56
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    Good luck on the bolt I hope you pull it off.

  7. #57
    TRX
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    It would be nice if I could borrow a Saiga bolt from somewhere to measure. I guess it doesn't matter for a one-off, though.

  8. #58
    TRX
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    Default Saiga .308 trunnion

    Does anyone have a picture of a Saiga .308 trunnion? Down from the top so I can see the relationship of the locking lugs to the magazine notch?

  9. #59
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    Awesome! Off to a good start
    Gunco Member #10

    http://pookieweb.net


    The "original" Boltcutter Rivet Squeezers:
    http://pookieweb.net/AK/rivet/boltcutters/boltcutter.htm


    Project Pink - the Pink and Blue AK-74:
    http://pookieweb.net/pink/pink.htm

  10. #60
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    Does anyone have a picture of a Saiga .308 trunnion? Down from the top so I can see the relationship of the locking lugs to the magazine notch?
    Let me see what I can do for pictures.

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