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Thread: .410 might be possible

  1. #31
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    after looking at a misc Saiga trunion (not sure of its oigin I noticed the lugs are wider apart than a saiga 410 and more like a 308 (its not bulged and has a 22mm bore) I can almost get a 28 guage shell through there as is. It would be alot of work to get this to work with a standard bolt

    the bolt is almost going to need to be long like factory on a 410 to be able to get this to feed with a shroud.

    also note how the factory bolt head is reduced in the extended section so it will fit between the upper and lower guides /shrouds and rotate. Im thinking a bolt head extension pinned in, might be the ticket like on a 20 guage. it might be the trick to get a 28 guage to work as well

  2. #32
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    Midway sells 32 gauge shells. Considering how oddball it is, I thought the price was surprisingly reasonable.

    If I remember Ed Hubel's 12gaFH thread on Accurate Reloading correctly, he got a ruling from the ATF on his .720 caliber rifles. The ATF said that even if the barrel was rifled and he was shooting blown-out BMG in it, if it would still accept a standard shotshell, it was still a shotgun as far as they were concerned.

    Of course, shotshells have tiny rims, and with enough extractor hook travel, there's no reason you couldn't shoot a rimless brass shell, as long as the rifle could still shoot a standard shotshell. At least, that's how I understood the thread. It's something like 65 pages long now...

    I have a 4140 bar cut up to make bolts from. Depending on how the feed issues work out, I could always make a Saiga-length bolt if I had to. I'd like to do it without going that far, if possible, so others could duplicate it without a lathe and heat treating a bolt.

  3. #33
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    Id make a bolt head that fits a standard bolt some how im sure you could bore out the original face to hold some sort of a extension .

  4. #34
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    My underfolder kit came in today. Yee-haw!

  5. #35
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    Looks like, other than the kit, the most expensive part of this build will be the bayonet. eBay and Gunbroker prices reflect the average selling price I found on various fora - $100 to $125! Yow!

    On the other hand, Polytech's web site has brand new underfolder bayonets for $75... sometimes I wonder how people set prices on things.

  6. #36
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    The .410 barrel showed up today. It says "NEW HAVEN BY MOSSBERG MODEL 283T - .410 GA. - FULL CHOKE 2 1/2 AND 3 IN SHELLS - NORTH HAVEN, CONNECTICUT - MADE IN USA" on it. Quite a lot, for a small barrel...

    The breech end is threaded. The picture at Numrich showed dovetails cut for the pump bits, and fingers going back over the breech. This is just threaded, no dovetails, which is good. I suspect the picture was generic.

    Interestingly, the threaded tenon is small enough that when I make a bushing to press it into the AK trunnion, the barrel pin shouldn't intersect the threads.

    I think most of the "finger" function, if needed, could be taken care of by an extension to the rear sight block.

    The barrel is .812 where the RSB goes; the RSB ID is .790. It would be easiest to turn the barrel down to accept the RSB. The barrel is tapered where the gas block goes, .625-ish. The gas block is .595 ID.

    SAAMI pressure for the .410 is 13,500, so shaving .022-.025 from the barrel diameter shouldn't hurt anything.

  7. #37
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    Hmm. One barrel says "New Haven" and the tenon is .725x24tpi. The other says "Western Auto" and the tenon is .715x24tpi. Otherwise the barrels are identical.

    23/32 is .7188", or 8.256mm. Close enough for 8.25mm, except for the thread pitch. Weird.

    I was going to order a tap, but I guess I could pin the barrel to the spacer sleeve. It's an AK, after all... My internal threading skills are shaky, and I'd just as soon avoid that if possible.

  8. #38
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    if you had a reamer and you could cut the end down and thread the .812 secton to
    7/8-14 thread and then bore out a 22mm trunion slightly and thread the trunion. and then you would not need a pin. the chamber can be done on a lathe with out a reamer BTW. in the end it likely would be about the same work as doing a bushing. you could do a threaded rifle barrel in some thing 243 or any 308 length shell and have a two barrel set. Im working on my switch barrel reciver now.

    I will have some bent blanks that are 1/2" longer possably for sale very soon in .O45and .060 4130 steel, they wont have mag demples so a wide G3 mag will fit. Ill have the longer rails also.

  9. #39
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    put the tap in a drill press to keep it straight and clamp your work down before you drill or bore to cut nice square internal threads. if something like a bushing is being done then turn it in a lathe put the tap chuck in the tail stock and then turn the chuck back and forth by hand. dont tightn the tail stock so you can apply forward pressure. if the treads are externial and your not cutting them with a bit they make die holders that will fir the tail stock. I have been doing muzzel treads like that and they are reasonably true and work fine for a muzzel attachment etc.

  10. #40
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    I think I'm just going to turn the threads off the tenon and press-and-pin it into the sleeve. It's good enough for Kalashnikov, it's good enough for me...

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