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Thread: Hadar build

  1. #31
    TRX
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    I ordered a couple of 80% .064 blanks from Coldsteel a minute ago. They were on sale for $36 each.

    Top rails are already bent, so I'm going to do like the guy with the Yugo build and just make the slant cut across the bottom and reweld that bit.

    "I love it when a plan comes together."

  2. #32
    Gunco Regular allesennogwat's Avatar
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    From these pics if the receiver is the same other than being cut back for the 308 trigger guard and magazine, then it looks like the 308 hammer axis pin is higher in the receiver.I can't tell if the front to back placement has been moved. A measurement from the top edge of the receiver would show if the 308 hammer pin placement is different and maybe a measurement from the trigger pin. Maybe it is the same but raising the hammer pin would make sense to speed the lock time of the action and it would use a shorter hammer. One 308 pic shows the relationship to the selector lever. This might help when compared to a 223 rifle.
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  3. #33
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    Hmm...

    Anyone out there with a .308 Galil and a dial caliper? What we need is the distance from the top of the receiver to the centerline of the pin. Or the top of the hole, for that matter.

    It doesn't look like they've moved it up much. The angles of the ears on the hammer and the hooks on the trigger have to match. I wonder if the .223 Galil uses the same hammer and/or trigger. I guess they'd have different part numbers if they're not the same.

    I wonder how high you can raise the trigger axis pin before the hammer doesn't work right any more... I've seen pictures of some old flats that had the holes way high after they were bent, and they apparently worked.

    On the other hand, if you raised the axis 1/8 inch, would it really make enough difference in lock time to notice?

  4. #34
    Gunco Regular allesennogwat's Avatar
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    I'm not sure how or in which direction exactly it was moved or if I'm just seeing it wrong but I remember reading something about it. The Tapco flat hammer pin holes seem a bit higher but standard parts still work. The Ace template holes don't match the factory AK but are close enough to work and seem to work better than the Tapco flat locations.Since they changed the FCG parts in the 308 model they wouldn't have to be stuck with the 223 or AK hole locations. They were doing a number of "improvements" for the 308 model to compete against the G-3 and the FAL in international sales.

    The 308 Yugo and Valmet use standard FCG parts and move the barrel forward, out of the receiver a bit. I don't know if the space was required or they did it to make the bolt head larger. The 308 Galil bolt doesn't look any larger than a standard AK bolt. The front of the receiver or trunnion might have to opened a bit between the lugs to get a 7.62x51 cartridge to feed through it.

  5. #35
    Gunco Regular allesennogwat's Avatar
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    I think some of the flats, besides being a bit off, weren't designed to be bent in a press jig but were meant to be bent in a press brake which might not stretch and pull the sides of the receiver up like a jig might.

  6. #36
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    Somewhere I saw a picture where someone had bent and drilled some sheet metal to make a working model of an AK trigger group that could be examined from all sides. Something like that would help you verify the angles on the hammer wings and trigger hook.

    Since I have to drill the holes in the blank anyway, I don't want to miss a trick that might help accuracy... but lock time is one of those "magic bullet" target shooter things that I'm not sure about. I'm still wondering why not just go to a lighter hammer and a stronger spring.

  7. #37
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    I'm still planning to use one of the $20 Chinese import top covers with the scope bases on it. But if I get a cash windfall in the mean time, I want one of these.

    Dog Leg scope rail - AR15.COM

    The guy was talking about $139 each. I emailed the maker to see if any are still available. Maybe I can get one before he has them anodized or painted; I think I'd like clear coat over brushed aluminum...
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  8. #38
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Somewhere I saw a picture where someone had bent and drilled some sheet metal to make a working model of an AK trigger group that could be examined from all sides. Something like that would help you verify the angles on the hammer wings and trigger hook.
    I made a trigger Dyno almot 5 years a go I just cut up a tapco bent blank that was exactly the same as what I was using and cut away any thing that wasent nedded so i coluld gring ,flile poilsh and test with out dissasmbly It cut the time to work a trigger by over 75 percent. some were i posted on it a few times. I did see were a guy had a plate that held the componets but it really didnt do much that my $9 set up did and I know it was the same as what I was building.

  9. #39
    Gunco Regular allesennogwat's Avatar
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    I'm thinking of making a Plexiglas shell for an AK trigger group.

  10. #40
    Gunco Regular allesennogwat's Avatar
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    The AK armorer's manuals have the FCG angles and gaps for inspecting and correcting factory AK's. They even tell which Russian welding rod to use to repair the ejector on a milled receiver.

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