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Thread: .22-250?

  1. #11
    TRX
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    Lee "Modern Reloading" 2009 edition

    .22-250 <50,000 PSI loads

    bullet powder velocity pressure

    40g 36g-4350 3501 fps 38,900 PSI
    40g 36g-3100 3055 fps 28,400 PSI

    45g 36g-4350 3526 fps 45,500 PSI
    45g 36g-3100 3104 fps 22,900 PSI

    50g 27g-TU2000 3425 fps 41,146 CIP
    50g 40g-4831 3390 gps 41,600 CUP
    50g 36g-3100 3169 fps 37,100 PSI

    52g 38g-760 3595 fps 46,500 CUP

    53g 38g-760 3505 fps 46,500 CUP
    53g 36g-3100 3112 fps 37,900 PSI

    55g 28g-SP10 3379 fps 45,863 CIP

    55g 33g-TU5000 3363 fps 38,213 CIP
    55g 27g-TU2000 3340 fps 43,018 CIP
    55g 49g-4831 3320 fps 42,400 CUP
    55g 36g-3100 3067 fps 37,300 PSI

    60g 33g-TU5000 3301 fps 42,957 CIP
    60g 36g-3100 2981 fps 37,500 PSI

    63g 36g-3100 3009 fps 39,700 PSI

    70g 34g-3100 2947 fps 45,700 PSI

  2. #12
    Gunco Regular willie's Avatar
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    There is a cagillion ways to skin a cat. Form tool is for consistancy and speed cutting rims reguardless of method. The main benefit of keeping the mandrel and form tool in a stationary state is consistancy with rim face. Cuz it locates off the rim face and it doesn't matter about case length even changing from 22-250 to 308 all rims will be the same. Once set only an in out cutting movement is needed. (same primer pocket only).
    1BG I am going to guess your question is about what keeps the rim from spinning when the tool makes contact? That where the stippling comes in. It is simular to knurl but is done with a sharp punch on mandrel face where it drives rim face. Combined with tailstock pressure allows the mandrel to grab/dig into the face. Using this method you will get the "FEEL" of how fast to feed the tool and how much pressure is needed to prevent case slippage. When setup there is no need to stop spindle as left hand inserts case while righthand tightens talestock. Left hand turns cross slide while pressure is applied by right hand on tailstock ("FEEL"). Right hand loosens talestock an left removes finish rebated casing. REPEAT.

    The drill press method would require a fixture with a bearing that the mandrel would be mounted, inline with the spindle. (Bolted to drill press table). A brazed on carbide square shank form tool would be needed. Tool would be set in a slot in fixture milled at tangent or slightly below centerline. Method#1 For feeding the tool in and out a fine pitch screw (8-40?)could be used by tapping a hole into end of tool and rigging up tool stops, feed knob, etc hardware. Method#2 A lever could be mounted and a spring used for dampining to slow feed. For driving this mess, an internal mandrel would be need with a rubber or urethane to spin the brass via the case shoulder. Using the left/right hand method above no stopping of spindle to tighten or losen anything would be needed. This fixture has the same idea of consistant tool to rim face idea. Case length doesn't matter.
    I agree BFD if your making 50 cases it's not worth while but 1BG idea of multicaliber AK combined with a rifle that will throw brass would equal a LOT of cases. There is no glory in turning rims.

  3. #13
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    HMMMM if i could make the the tail stock /mandrel spring loaded with a lever it would be really easy to just swap out cases and and keep the spindle running.

    for my hunting stuff a 100 rounds goes a long ways. Im still trimming cases to length with a hand spun forester trimmer and turning necks on one of my bolt gun loads so if i have to spend a little more time to rebate some cases that can be reloaded multipul time so be it. I really should devise a tool to go in the press to do this. driving form the case end has cot me thinking of a few new ideas. theroeticaly this could be run with a hand drill even a cordless possably if done right.

    You dont think a high speed steel cutter would work ground to cut the OD and the groove at the same time????

    the other way to go is to just dont mix up your ammo and be carefull. Im wondering if Rite Dye woud dye brass????

  4. #14
    TRX
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  5. #15
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    THANKS FOR THE LINK.
    I have no idea what half that stuff is but Im sure it cant be that hard to do.

    just some ink would likely work. I want bright orange so i can find it easy.

    I was original thinking of differant colors to sortammoa nd brass that are made for 308 cases. it would make it eset to tell a 260 rm from a 7mm-08 and a 243.

  6. #16
    Gunco Regular willie's Avatar
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    High speed cutter would just fine on a lathe but since they are hardened it would be difficult to drill and tap for drill press fixture. Most tooling I work with is inserted on the job is carbide because of material and the price of carbide tooling has become cheaper. I do have to keep in mind we both work with what we have available. In my case there are diamond wheels for me me to grind carbide with. Most of the material I am currently working with is BECU, Inconel, incoloy, nitronic, P580, P550, etc. I haven't worked worked with carbon steel or regular SS (300,400 or 17-4 ph) except for my own use in the last 8 + years. Had to call a few buddies to find a peice of 410 SS for a pistol reweld and a welder buddy for some 410 tig rod. The reason I suggested brazed carbide tooling was availability and that is what I used to cut my own rims with. Like I said there is a thousand ways to skin a cat and rims could be cut with a file. The lathe mandrel with a large primer spud .002 undersized to locate case (mandrel OD .01-.02 U/S of 7.62x39 rim) and a center drilled end cap at the casemouth end IMHO would be the quickest tooling to make would imagine less than half an hour. I do use an electric drill to cut my brass to length vis the LEE method. Made my own neck turner for my 22-250 bolt rifle and turn the cases by hand over a precision straight mandrel. Simple or complex my ideas are just food for thought. Use what you need and throw out the rest. What I like about Gunco is sharing of ideas!

  7. #17
    Gunco Regular willie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRX View Post
    Becareful some of those formulas MAY? contain chemicals that can weaken thin cartridge brass.
    I am NOT an expert but do your research.

  8. #18
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    Becareful some of those formulas MAY? contain chemicals that can weaken thin cartridge brass.
    I am NOT an expert but do your research.
    very very good point

    I have a few ideas for a rebating tool. I am liking the drive it from the rim end idea so the case length will not afect any thing an the cutter will not need repositioning every time. with the switch barrel set up ill need to at least 1000 rounds with all the caliburs Im looking at, so I might as well take the time and build a good tool.

    I have no way to gring a carbide bit correctly but I should get a small diamond wheel
    I never have enough tooling LOL

  9. #19
    TRX
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    I picked up a packet of 6 .22-250 cartridges for $2 at the gun show today. At the price, I couldn't resist.

  10. #20
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    Ive been thinking about a fast twist 22-250 more and more it would work great with lowere pressures to avoid cooking the barrel and with 90 grain bullets would reach out and touch something and the moderate gains over the 223 even loaded to around 48,000 PSI would be worth the trouble not to mention no one makes a 22-250 auto.

    I have a line on 6.5mmx22-250 reamer and dies and it would give some good balance of not being a unsafe factory load and the ability to seat long bullets out all the way in a 308 length mag. it likely is close to a 6.5 creedmore but if done right could make a cool auto loader. Im trying get the chamber dimensions VS case dimensions to see how tight a wild cat this is.

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