after several requests for more info on how i did the mods for the TOK AK & 9MM version decided to make a separate run thru on just the bolt carrier set up.
lets get this statement out of the way up front:
with out AZHONKEY, Doubletapme & Rahatlakhoom paving the way on this it would have been MUCH tougher. so all respect and credit to them for their builds, input & advice.
naturally i took a little from ALL of them and made my own way. Grin
first you have to decide WHAT type of action and for this set up its gonna be the simple blow back style.
this is what it looks like when your done:
now lets get there.
alright part of my set up on this bolt was that i wanted the head to still be removable for FP cleaning and extractor stuff... so that eliminates the solid welding of the bolt.
again: theres nothing wrong with that style, to me its just not as serviceable.
so you after some looking and testing, found out that yes its simpler and easier to have the bolt head forward.
this has been a good debate and my "thoughts" were that rearward would be better... well i was wrong.
forward is MUCH easier to construct.
lets set it up.
decided that my bolt head needed to be just a hair forward of the bolt carrier front lip.
this makes the ejection thing a non issue, no adjustment needed, no handle relocation!
as we've all seen when the bolt is in the forward position & the barrel is rearward the carrier stays back so you need to either extend the trunny contact point or the bolt contact point.
i chose the bolt contact point as its adding weight to the bolt which is the big factor in this build!
serves the same purpose as the trunny extension, but ads weight on the bolt while performing the same function.. thats a win win move and with just a little dremel work it looks like it belongs there.
moving on to the bolt head & carrier itself.
now that you know the position you mark it on the carrier, this will be your rear stop point and still adding weight to the carrier... then welded up the slot in the carrier.
now take apart the bolt head and make a weld on the rear corner of the bolt head across the body. see my ugly little weld?
this isnt about pretty its about holding. my weld turns out to be about 1/4" high on the bolt head and you make your slot the same in the carrier where you welded every thing up.
this allows the bolt head to twist sideways out of the carrier when its out of the gun and you can clean or whatever that way. the slot also keeps the head from going out of the carrier on the recoil stroke. it really doesnt take much to keep it in there on the recoil side as there is no impact unless you are beating the rear tang to death...
all of the impact going forward should be on the trunny stop and carrier stop. this is important as you want the spacing on this to be perfect.. too much stop is gonna open your headspace up... too little gonna let your bolt face smash into the barrel all the time and thats bad for the barrel face and the bolt head.
wrapping it up:
you may have noticed that my bolt bottom looks solid all the way across. its not that was just a piece i added on to give the bottom the same height profile all the way across and hopefully slick the hammer ride instead of the "bumps" that it used to have on the carrier bottom.
did it help? hard to say, but it did ad half an ounce to the carrier total weight! speaking of that weight..
by having the carrier rearward that little bit it allowed me to use the longer 3/8" rod in place of the factory piston. this also added more weight and a US part (piston). total bolt weight is now 22.5 oz and the total bolt stroke is right at 3".
thats really all there is too this and now we hope there should be a HUGE surge of people building TOK & 9MM AK's!!
thanks for looking
the build thread is here: http://www.gunco.net/forums/f244/ak-...rst-pix-59183/
say what you mean & mean what you say
im here to build stuff.... not cry about "how things used to be"YES, i work for TEC Tactical.. 07/02 SOT