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Thread: Home Made Carbine Questions.

  1. #11
    Gunco Regular Rocster's Avatar
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    BTW Tailgunner, how do you like your Mech-Tech CCU? Curious about accuracy/reliability (standard mags vs. extended ones), etc. I have been thinking about one of those for a while and never knew anyone that had one.

  2. #12
    Gunco Regular Shadow Walker's Avatar
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    I used a un-modified Sten recoil spring on a .30 Carbine caliber blowback rifle. Recoil distance was shorten 3 inches compared to the Sten receiver recoil length. It works fine, with no noticeable recoil.

  3. #13
    Gunco Regular Tailgunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rocster
    BTW Tailgunner, how do you like your Mech-Tech CCU? Curious about accuracy/reliability (standard mags vs. extended ones), etc. I have been thinking about one of those for a while and never knew anyone that had one.

    It's fairly accurate, but not as accurate as my Thompson replica. The Thompson has a longer sight radius and better iron sights. (assuming the rear one hasn't fallen off again) As the assembled CCU weighs half what the Thompson does it's a whole lot easier to hold on target though and carry around. It's MUCH more reliable than the Thompson, excepting the extended mag it hasn't hiccupped yet where my Thompson averages 2 to 3 jams per mag's worth of ammo. It's worth noting I'm a plinker and I buy and shoot bulk FMJ ball ammo through these, I don't know how well the CCU would feed hollowpoints.

    If ya really want one I'd cut you a deal on my CCU, as I said I'm a plinker and I'd rather scratch build a .45 carbine that takes 30 round Grease Gun mags.

  4. #14
    GuncoHolic kernelkrink's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert_Redbeard
    One of my initial design requirements is design simplicity and being able to use the least amount of specialty equipment. You know, files, hacksaw blades, drill press, hammers, measuring tools and knowledge.

    We may be getting a 3 in 1 machine after taxes come in. Maybe.

    But I don't want those things to be essential. They will just make it easier and better quality.

    The lack of machine tools limits your options. You could always use an existing bolt, but if you are going to build one yourself a stepped diameter design is probably the easiest. Could be made from stock sized round bar.

    The rear section is sized to fit the ID of the tube and the front section is just larger than the casehead. The rear section would be drilled to take the front section, which could be welded, pinned, or silver soldered in place. A center cutting end mill of the proper diameter could be used in your drill press to make the breechface, simple bent spring steel extractor screwed into the side.

    You could also copy the Greasegun bolt mechanism in that it rides on two rods instead of the tube ID, would allow more flexibility on bolt size selection.

    Probably the easiest firing method would be a striker assembly, but you could also slot the rear of the bolt to accept a hammer mechanism.

  5. #15
    Gunco Member Robert_Redbeard's Avatar
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    It is really nice to know I am not to far off of other people's ideas.

    I was thinking of using a P.A. LUTY style bolt. But modifying it into a closed bolt. And pressing the bolt into a solid block instead of putting locking collars around it.

    Like you said, I was thinging of using a striker and not a hammer. Kinda like I have seen in Hi-Point pistols. But a design of my own. Of course.

    How do I figure out how much the metal I am going to use will weigh? So I have some clue as to how long the bolt will need to be.

    I have been working on some drawings. I will post some as they become clearer. I don't wanna post something Unless I think people will get what I am drawing.
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  6. #16
    Gunco Member Robert_Redbeard's Avatar
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    I started to mess with a 3d model. But here is the basic bolt concept. It will ride on an ak like lower.
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  7. #17
    GuncoHolic kernelkrink's Avatar
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    Ah, I assumed a round tube receiver, but the concept is basically the same. As for weight, I would build the rear section long and cut to match your ideal bolt weight. I would definitely make the rear section of the bolt hit a positive stop on the bbl mount, otherwise the breechface might go slammimg into the bbl when dropped on an empty chamber.

  8. #18
    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert_Redbeard
    I was thinking of using a 1911 recoil spring.

    Would the bolt need to be heavier for a long barrel like that? You want the bullet to get out the barrel before the bolt chambers another round right?

    The barrel length doesn't matter, I'm guessing the wieght of the bolt would deside on the spring pressure.
    I got a 1911 and just for the hell of it I got a 16" barrel and a folding stock for it, I didn't change the recoil spring and it cycles fine.

  9. #19
    Gunco Member Robert_Redbeard's Avatar
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    Here is the initial idea for the bolt carrier. I haven't figured out just how I am going to do the charging handle. So no hole for that so far.

    And I haven't figured out how I am going to design it for field stripping yet so no notches for that either.
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  10. #20
    Gunco Veteran tony's Avatar
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    Feather USA made a .45 cal. carbine, if your thinking of using a tube receiver, maybe utilize one of their .45 bolts. It also uses a dual recoil spring system which keeps it in line with the trigger group and using two springs helps return power and uses less recoil space. Just my 2 cents though. Good luck and lets see some pics during the build!
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