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Thread: SGN-9

  1. #251
    Gunco Member Jon Meyer's Avatar
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    I see that you have your charging handle in two pieces I was just wondering are you planing on making it permanently attached, or is that the only way you will be able to remove your bolt?

  2. #252
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    The bolt handle is just like the sgn-9 article which is copied straight from a sten design. The sgn-9 bolt handle is removable, but is held captive except for a spot at the end of the cocking slot where the bolt would not normally extend to in recoil. The bolt handle acts as a bolt guide, and after the recoil spring is removed the bolt is alowed to go further back than it normally would in recoil to a spot where the charging handle slot is opened up from the skinner area between the two bumps about in the middle of the handle. You really don't need the outer bump, but it can keep your finger off of the cocking slot and avoid cutting it on the sharp edge.

  3. #253
    Gunco Member Jon Meyer's Avatar
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    Ok I get it now.

  4. #254
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    I got a little more work done on suomi #2. I extended the barrel to 16-1/4" by turning down the last inch to a thousands over the .584" hole I drilled in the 3/4" diameter extension with a 37/64" drill bit. I welded the extension on and turned down the welds in the lathe. Then I cut down the barrel stub to .750 and inlarged the index slot on the barrel collar to 1/4". I ended up cutting the index pin on the barrel bushing on the milling machine. I made a tight fitting collar for the barrel bushing that had a cut through one side so it would tighten up on the bushing in the vise and milled two flats on the collar. I then tightened the barrel bushing up loosely in the mill vise and hooked a dial indicator to the mill head and ran it around the top of the barrel bushing. I adjusted it until there was less than a thousands movement on the dial indicator. I had previously scribed a 1/4" "pin" location centered above a lug. With a 1/4" 4 flute end mill I cut off 20 thousands at a time until I was a few thousands over the measurement from the back of a lug to the front of the barrel bushing on a demilled suomi stub. Then I would move the table all the way to one side and test fit the barrel and shroud on the barrel bushing without removing it from the vise. When it would fit I was done. I had previously opened up the end of the barrel shroud for the barrel to fit through by cutting off the barrel looking nub at the end, and drilled/bored it out until it was a few thousands over the barrel extension diameter. Heres some pic of the work.
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  5. #255
    Gunco Veteran muttman's Avatar
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    moleman,
    you do some nice work. muttman

  6. #256
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    Thanks, This one has been a much more enjoyable build with the experience of the first one and a new milling machine. I wasn't sure how well I would do at cutting the barrel jacket lugs into the barrel bushing, but its wasn't as bad as what I thought.

  7. #257
    Gunco Veteran muttman's Avatar
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    moleman,
    new mill, you lucky mole. Im hopeing to get a old brigeport from work when it gets retird to go with my cnc lathe that I aquired from same work. muttman

  8. #258
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    Muttman, I would love to have room for a bridgeport, but I ended up with the harbor freight mill/drill and it seems to be a great machine so far. It sure beats drilling/filing/dremmel for hours to make one slot. The only other milling machine I've used was an old bridgport years ago. You've got a cnc lathe and you're calling me lucky? I'm jealous, but I'd have no clue how to run it.
    I shot my first suomi again yesterday. I actually shot it enough to get the barrel jacket hot near the receiver! It works great with the stick mags, but I tried a 72rnd drum mag with it and was getting some failure to eject. I don't know if I need to clean the drum or what. The gun ejects fine with the stick mags, but the first time I ran a drum through it I was getting a failure to eject about every 15 rounds. On the second time I tried the same drum I only got 3 failures to eject, but to me thats still 3 too many. The gun is cocked and it strips a new round from the drum, but the fired case ends up backwards jammed between the extractor and the front of the ejection port. I have near 1000 rounds through it so far and I've noticed the large recoil spring I'm using is getting weaker. I think I'll redesign the recoil guide to keep the large recoil spring from ever being fully compressed. I think thats why the spring in there is getting weaker. I'll try to locate a stronger and longer spring. Its not an issue with my cast plinking loads, but with the hotter fmj ammo the bolt does go back far enought to impact the rubber buffer and fully compress the larger recoil spring. Its still a very fun gun to shoot.

  9. #259
    Gunco Veteran muttman's Avatar
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    moleman,
    i have a cnc but like you Idont know how to work it. I only worked on it, got it from work and it needs 3 phase that I dont have at the house. some day I will have the gogo juce for it.
    that is strange that you only get the eject problem with drums. do the drum lips sit up higher? muttman

  10. #260
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    I don't get it either. I do get an occasional failure to eject with the stick mags, but maybe one or so out of 4-5 mags. I have 3 drums and this was the most beat up one. The other two look excellent, this one looks good. It also fits much looser in the gun which may be the problem. I cleaned out some very coarse sand out of the drum when I got it. I found that a few more pieces worked their way out while I was shooting it over the weekend. I'll try the other two mags to see if its all of them or what. This was happening with the stick mags early on and I found that the cases were hitting a couple high spots on the "rail" part of the extractor forward of the step that kicks out the case. I ground them down and fixed the problem or so I thought. I'll be dammed if I wasn't just looking at it and saw two shiney spots on the forward section of the ejector where the soot from the alox lube is gone! perhaps I have a couple more high spots to hit with the dremmel!!!
    If you look you can see the two high spots that are causing the problem (I think) just forward of the extractor. I still need to dress the welds a bit and put a finish on it and a barrel takedown lever so it looks better, but its functionally complete. Sorry about the dirty gun pic.
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