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Thread: Suomi build

  1. #51
    Gunco Rookie barrel guy's Avatar
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    Default mag release hole location

    Can anyone give me the location for the pin hole that holds in the mag release lever? I know it's like a 1.000 down from the top of the rear filler (got a brand new one) but how far back from the front edge (mag well side of the filler)? I want to put it in the right spot so it holds the mag in and releases correctly.

    Thanks!

  2. #52
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    I've measured several demilled rear fillers with intact mag lever holes. I got .370" (on center) back from the face (not the recessed part of the face though), and from the top of the mag release channel down I get 1.035" (on center).

  3. #53
    Gunco Rookie barrel guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by moleman View Post
    I've measured several demilled rear fillers with intact mag lever holes. I got .370" (on center) back from the face (not the recessed part of the face though), and from the top of the mag release channel down I get 1.035" (on center).

    Thanks Moleman! Right on the money!

    As close as I could measure my wrecked one I was guessing at .3455. Same with the 1.000" dimension.

    I put the hole to your dimensions and checked a mag and it worked like a million bucks!

  4. #54
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    Great, You'll really like shooting that suomi. I don't know why they just didn't drill the holes in all of the real fillers before they left the factory.

  5. #55
    Gunco Member joel1000's Avatar
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    Really nice work. You are some craftsman. If I remember the Suomi has the ejector welded inside the tube. I'd like to see that! Along with the ejection port and mag well. My build was ruined trying to get the drum holders just under the bushing. I'd like to try again. Moleman, could you make a tube with the bushing and threads for the end cap. I'd ask you to do the ejector but that might be over the eighty percent factor. Best, Joel

  6. #56
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    Joel1000, Put some pics up of how the build went wrong. Perhaps someone could figure out a way to save it. I have gone about putting an ejector in the suomi two ways so far. In either way you make a slot in the barrel bushing, (centered on the left barrel jacket lug) where the ejector needs to be. From there I've welded in an ejector before I pressed in the barrel bushing into the receiver. The only problem I've had with that is it is tricky to machine the mag/ejection port openings and not machine the ejector. The good part about it is the rear sight guides the bolt. If you have the rear sight slot done and insert the barrel bushing with the ejector installed you can rotate the bushing into position as you press it in to line up with the ejector slot in the bolt. The latest way I've tried is just mill the ejector slot 3/16" wide. Just press in the bushing so that the ejector slot on the bolt is more or less centered with the barrel bushing ejector slot. Once you have the barrel bushing welded in and the ejection and mag openings done, drill two holes at the front and back of the barrel bushing slot through the receiver from the ejection port. Then either make a screw on ejector or weld/rivet on ejector by taking a prefitted 3/16" thick bar and coloring the back side of it with a sharpie marker. slide the bolt back and forth lightly a few times so that the bolt impacts the oversized ejector. Mill away any part of the ejector profile that isn't still colored by the sharpie marker. Check for fit and adjust if needed. I've been busy with other commitments but hope to start posting some updates to this thread soon. I'm not comfortable making the receiver parts for others without an atf approval letter, and I don't plan on sending in a sample to get one. Especially since it wouldn't be a stretch for the barrel bushing to be considered a receiver since it can accept a bolt, barrel and barrel jacket. Prexis is probably going to be your best bet on an 80% receiver. Here is how I've been cutting the magwell opening so they are about 45 degrees by squaring the receiver up in the mill and placing a level on two of the barrel jacket lugs and adjusting until the level is flat. Mill one side, rotate then mill the other. The magwell opening doesn't come out tapered front to back like a suomi magwell, but it's a good compromise. I'll try to document this better than I have other builds. I'm good at building, not so much actually remembering to stop and take a picture.
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    Last edited by moleman; 11-07-2009 at 10:02 AM.

  7. #57
    Gunco Rookie barrel guy's Avatar
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    I kinda did what Moleman did but just a little differently. After my tube was all together and etc...I measured the cut receiver for the ejector location. I milled a .125 slot. Towards the outer edge of my receiver tube I opened up the slot to .187 about half the distance. I took the scrap receiver (ejector wasn't damaged) and milled it out. I machined the outer edge of the ejector to .187. Hand fitted it to the slot in my new tube so it was a snug fit. Put it in and it lined up perfectly with the bolt. When I'm ready to I will have it welded in place. I hope this made sense.

  8. #58
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    Barrel guy, I've thought about doing that also, but figured it would be hard to do since the original ejector is riveted into the suomi receiver. Glad to hear that way is an option also as I have a few receivers that have intact ejectors.

  9. #59
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    I have only been able to find 1.5" 4130 tubing in .120" wall thickness (too big I.D.) and .188" wall which works but makes for a heavy receiver. I recently found .156" wall thickness (listed as 5/32") at Factory Steel- 4130 Alloy Tubing, Aircraft Bars, Tubes in Square, Round, Rectangular Shapes which give you an 1.188" inside diameter. They will sell by the foot so you don't have to buy a 10' section. A 1.188" i.d. is the same or darn close to the comercial reduced diameter receivers out there. Does anyone knows a source for 1.5"x.138"-.140"wall 4130 tubing for original i.d. (with a blocking bar of course) receiver tubes?

  10. #60
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    give me a few days. I deal with several steel suppliers and will see what I can come up with. I've thought about this before as I've seen it talked about in some builds.

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