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Thread: vz61 reweld semi auto

  1. #11
    Gunco Member trickyrick's Avatar
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    got the rest of receiver put together. it went together pretty easy. there was a large gap on one side so i had to add a filler piece. first thing i did was to cut a piece of metal to fit in the dove tail for folding stock. i put it in and welded it in on both sides.



    be careful if you do it this way. i should have cut it a little short so it lined up w/ the 2 thick ribs on the inside, rear of receiver. putting the welds on the outside corners where the metal is extremely thin almost caused a burn through into channel that the sheet metal upper sits in. would have been a pain to clean it up.



    i did not weld the top of the hole for the safety lever/selector yet as i didn't have a brass rod to use as a backing plate.









    i have to clean up selector hole and decide if i need to put in holes for hammer stop pin. i've seen builds both ways. anyone know what would be wrong w/ leaving it out? then i can insert internals and see what else i need to clean up inside receiver.

  2. #12
    Crazy Norwegian Sid_Vicious's Avatar
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    You don't need the hammer stop pin. Same with the hook sitting ind the back of the reciever. It's a ratereducer working together with the "thingy" inside the pistolgrip. Again nice work.

  3. #13
    Gunco Member trickyrick's Avatar
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    thanks sid, i didn't think i did. makes it easier as it would have to be drilled through the weld. how much recoil is there on one of these? would the rate reducer / buffer be advantageous to keep the weld from cracking? after welding it together last night i threw it in the oven for an hour at 400 to relieve stress.

  4. #14
    Gunco Member trickyrick's Avatar
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    "Rick, I'm always in awe at how fast you progress at these builds. Looking Good! zeb."
    zeb, that's cuz i'm ocd when i start one. lol most of the time was spent cleaning up the welds. this is definitely a quick one.
    i baked receiver in oven at 400 for an hour when i was done welding it last night to relieve stress on welds. i don't have much to say about the upper. i got a barrel in trade that the owner was not happy w/. i figured i could fix whatever wasn't right about the slot he put in it for retaining pin. when i got it, i installed it to see how far off it was and... it wasn't. i inserted pin into hole and tapped it into place and it fit perfect w/ no slop or play, (previous owner's complaint), and it lined up perfectly w/ the bolt face. some have had issues w/ diameter of barrel where it fits into trunnion. this has been addressed w/ a lathe or emery cloth, depending on severity of discrepancy. mine slid right in, fit well and pin slot was perfect. don't know if original owner turned it or not. dumb luck, heh?





    typically the rate reducer/ buffer are not used on semi auto builds as they are deemed unnecessary. my question to those that have done one of these is this; i know the recoil is not going to be overwhelming, but would it affect the operation of pistol to have them installed? i figure any reduction in recoil is better on welds on frame. any thoughts? thanks, rick

  5. #15
    Crazy Norwegian Sid_Vicious's Avatar
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    The ratereducer hook up in the rear end of the bolt to give it a little delay before it goes forward again on full auto. The springs should be enough in semi. There isn't much recoil in it. It's a fun ting to shoot, both in Sa and Fa...

  6. #16
    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    Wow you got a lot done.

    shooting the 32acp to me is like shooting a 22lr, you can tell it has some more shit then a 22 but it feels the same.
    "Government is not the solution to our problem, government is the problem" Ronald Reagan

  7. #17
    Gunco Member trickyrick's Avatar
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    today i assembled and installed the innards. first i checked the hole for safety lever. i did not weld the cut through the hole as i didn't want it to blow away. the remaining tabs are more than enough to hold the lever in place as there is no pressure on it ever. it just rotates and blocks sear lever.
    #3 is the safety rod in place w/ cuts shown.
    #2 is slot that the trigger pin sits in when installed.
    #1 is an unfilled hole where one of the retaining springs for the fixing plate are supposed to go. i wasn't sure how that was going to pan out. i am going to put screws through the fixing plate in both locations as the other spring shot out of the hole and i can't find it anywhere. the missing spring was for the full auto sear any way, so it is not needed.



    this next pic shows #1, the ramp that the trigger pin rides on as it is pushed down into lower, and the slot it sits in when fully installed below it. #2 shows a bridge that spans the lower from side to side. in this pic you can see the slag that i failed to clean off prior to welding it up. this bridge is what the rear arm of the main sear rides on. w/ this slag in the way, the main sear would not catch the hammer. so i had to put it in the drill/mill and clean it up.



    #1 in pic below shows ramp and #2 shows slot for trigger pin and weld blocking it. i was able to clean this up w/ a cut off wheel on a dremmel. you can see to the right of slot, the head of the rivet that holds trigger guard in place. i drove rivet in from below and put a dab of weld on it.



    below is the trigger group. #1 is the main sear, #2 is the end of that sear that rides on the bridge, #3 shows the safety sear to the left and the disconnector arm that disengages the safety sear.



    below shows the trigger group installed w/ main sear working correctly.



    the safety rod has two holes in it that allow it to fire in either semi or auto mode. the lever sits at 20 or at 1 and the middle is 0 (safety). on the replacement receivers there is just a 1 and a 0. i can either weld one of the holes shut in the rod or i can cut a slot in frame at the location shown in pic below where original 0 slot was cut. the safety can be changed either way the lever is pushed.



    assembled for trial run.




  8. #18
    Indian Admin Winn R's Avatar
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    I've left out the third pin.

    The slag also was a problem for me at the inside rear of the lower. I've forgotten the end mill size but that was the trick to the rounded corners.

    I also filled in the lightning cut on the front.
    There is no nonsense so errant that it cannot be made the creed of the vast majority by adequate governmental action. -- Bertrand Russell


    "Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by stupidity." Robert J. Hanlon

  9. #19
    Gunco Member trickyrick's Avatar
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    well i got out this afternoon and tried it out. great little single and double shot pistol.
    i compiled these from the best of 24 separate video clips to save you the torture i had to endure.

    vz61 single shot

    still trying to figure out what is going on.

  10. #20
    Gunco Member trickyrick's Avatar
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    here are some pics of fired primers.



    here are some unfired, light hit primers.



    here are some shots of the rims that are damaged. all the arrows point to damaged areas.







    here is the best pic to show what's happening.



    the fired rounds w/o damage all fired the first pull of trigger. i didn't realize it at the time but when i would pull back bolt to reset hammer, the rounds never ejected. i think what is happening is the feed lip is pinching the rim between face of lip and chamber, not letting bolt completely close, hence the light strikes and no ejection on rearward movement of bolt by hand.

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