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Thread: vz61 reweld semi auto

  1. #21
    Indian Admin Winn R's Avatar
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    check headspace.

    Close the bolt with a piece of paper trapped between the bolt face and chamber. It should not be pinched.

    Check the barrel alignment.
    There is no nonsense so errant that it cannot be made the creed of the vast majority by adequate governmental action. -- Bertrand Russell


    "Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by stupidity." Robert J. Hanlon

  2. #22
    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    I don't know anything about these pistols but like Winn said, something is keeping the bolt from closing on those rounds. I wish I could help more but can't

    Thanks for the video.
    "Government is not the solution to our problem, government is the problem" Ronald Reagan

  3. #23
    Gunco Member trickyrick's Avatar
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    well i disassembled it today to see if i could find whats up. w/ the bolt in the upper and turned upside down i would start a shell and let bolt hit home just to see if ejector would seat and grab the rim. all went well.





    then i messed w/ the bolt in the upper right side up, holding it over my head so i could see what was happening. i let the bolt slide forward under it's own weight. and this is what i found.







    below #1 is side that was hitting on feed ramp.
    #2 is gap on right side of rail.
    #3 is where rail was hitting feed ramp.
    #4 is gap at top of feed ramp on right side.



    the bottom of the bolt was catching on the top of the feed ramp on the left side. the top of the feed ramp sits at an angle do to the hole drilled by previous owner. i had noticed this but didn't pay it much concern as it was upside down when i was checking it and all was working well. i filed the top left of the feed ramp down a little and cleaned up the bottom of the bolt. you can see on the right side of the rail for the feed lip, on the feed ramp, there is a little indent where the feed lip was hitting the ramp. i filed down the rail pocket and the rail a little on that side and put a small bevel on it so it would be guided into slot in chamber. these small alterations were easier than welding (and possibly screwing it up more), the barrel and redrilling it. i cycled 4 clips through with no failure to feed or eject by hand. hopefully i'll get out tomorrow to further test.

  4. #24
    Gunco Maniac sjohnson's Avatar
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    Nice, you seem to have it sorted out. WTG!
    I have a daughter. I tell her, "911 is what you dial after you're raped. 1911 is what you should have before they try."

  5. #25
    Gunco Member trickyrick's Avatar
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    first off, yesterday when i was doing the first trial, i stood in front of my wife's 09 toyota truck. 1st shell ejected up, over my head, and came down on her windshield, putting a nice little chip in it, so keep that in mind. went out today after modifications and all went well. i had 2 "situations" that i will address but after that all went well. i used privi and magtech 71 gr. round nose. put 100 round down range w/ no hiccups. tried win. white box 71 gr. semi round, (front is flat) and had feeding issues when fired rapidly. no problems when fired slow and deliberately. nothing that you wouldn't expect from a flat nose or hollow point. only tried the 10 round mag as of right now. here's what you have all been waiting for! (drum roll please).

    trickyrick49 - 000 -0274.flv

    trickyrick49 - 000_0275.flv

    trickyrick49 - 100_3164.flv

    trickyrick49 - 100_3167.flv

  6. #26
    Gunco Member trickyrick's Avatar
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    a lesson i learned today: what i am calling the safety lever is actually the controller/selector for a reason.



    #1 i'll call the selector rod. lever is on the left in the pic.
    #2 is the pawl on rear of trigger. when trigger is pulled, pawl goes into hole 3 of which there are 2 of them.the one in the pic is the hole for the full auto selection. the other hole is on the bottom of rod right above pawl. this hole in this selection is for single shot. if either of these holes do not line up w/ pawl the trigger cannot be pulled, hence the safety. in the pic #4 is the disconnector, which in this position, the lever on rear of disconnector goes into slot allowing the disconnector sear to catch hammer when it is reset. if the lever on selector rod is set to the forward position, hole (#3) lines up w/ pawl (#2) allowing trigger to be pulled and weapon to fire but slot above disconnector lever turns 90 degrees NOT ALLOWING DISCONNECTOR SEAR TO ENGAGE THE HAMMER AS IT IS RESET BY BOLT MOVING REARWARD.THUS PUTTING IT IN THE POSITION TO POSSIBLY GO FULL AUTO. two ways to address this are #1, welding hole (#3) shut, so pawl cannot enter hole and allow weapon to fire until selector lever is pushed fully to the rear or the way i chose, to cut off rear of disconnector lever, so slot position no longer plays a part in operation of weapon. i chose this way so that selector/safety lever can be moved either way of center to be off the safe position.

    the pic below shows where i cut off lever on disconnector.



    below shows selector lever towards rear. #1 is trigger sear. #2 is disconnector sear. this pic shows trigger at rest.



    below shows lever to rear, trigger engaged. notice both sears move forward, (left).



    below shows lever to the front, which i thought would be the same as rear WRONG! you can see the disconnector is held back by selector rod holding down lever. this pic is w/ trigger at rest.



    below shows trigger engaged. w/ trigger held down there is nothing to catch hammer as it is rest.



    below shows disconnector before lever was removed w/ pawl in the back round.


  7. #27
    Gunco Member trickyrick's Avatar
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    last night i mixed up some jb weld and i filled in the gaps, cracks, holes etc in the lower. in part to pretty it up and also, it will be easier to see cracks that might appear in welds. i ground a slot in the middle between the fa and sa slots for the safe position. i also welded a sling loop on rear where folding stock denier was installed. today a sanded it down, took off the rough edges and painted it up. after it set, i baked it in oven at 400 degrees for an hour to harden.




    then i painted upper and followed previous procedure. while all that was going on, i sanded down the grip to remove as much of the larger scratches, stained and spray varnished it.

  8. #28
    Gunco Member trickyrick's Avatar
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