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Sensible SHTF Vehicle-Good and Cheap??

10K views 57 replies 24 participants last post by  WV_gunner 
#1 ·
My wife and I have been discussing buying an extra vehicle whose express mission is to get us the hell outa dodge if/when things go south, and we can not maintain security at home. I may be going overboard, but I am thinking about older vehicles with no real electronics on them, that would be easy to repair and/or impervious to EMP. I know that may sound stupid, but I figure if I'm going to invest in something to help save our lives, then I want to plan for most any contingency.

Here's my list. It needs to have:

1) At least enough room for 4-6 adults, one dog, our gear, extra fuel, etc....
2) reasonable off road capabilities, 4x4, winch, heavy bumpers, extra lighting, V-8 or turbo diesel for torque/pushing vehicles out of the way.
3) Easy to repair/maintain.
4) Preferably something that is or can be made EMP resistant if not completely shielded. (and no, I have no clue if that's even possible.)
5) Would prefer an automatic due to my wife having rheumatoid arthritis, and driving a stick isn't easy for her. Not mandatory, but prefered.
There's probably 20 other things that I can't think of right now.

Blade, or any of you have any ideas as to what might be a good fit, that doesn't cost a fortune to build/buy?

We have thought about older late '60's International Harvester, Ford Bronco, Chevy or GMC Suburban, Mercedes Unimog, military deuce and a half, etc...

Wouldn't mind a military Humvee in the right configuration, but damn they're expensive!!!!

My wife is partial to the Unimog. A friend who owns one took us for a ride, and she loved it's capabilities off road. Very simple vehicle. Diesel engine. About 2 feet of ground clearance. Minimal electrial system. Kind of like the AK of the off road world: Simple, durable, and reliable. The prices aren't too bad either. Between $5000.00 and $10,000.00 depending on year, options, and engine type. (gas or diesel)

What do you "experts" think, or what do you have for such an emergency? What am I overlooking or missing? Am I on the wrong path? Thanks for any and all info and help.
 
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#33 ·
Honestly my only worry would be to get me from the rendezvous point to the bug out location most reliably. Spare parts are no good without spare fuel. Most likely it will be a one way trip if things really get bad enough to need to worry about faraday caged electrical bits. The effects of EMP have been pretty exaggerated as well.

While you could make a small block chevy powered truck pretty bad ass, it will never be of the offroad capability of something like a unimog. Plus the fact that you may have to run a road block or something ....
 
#34 ·
Do not underestimate the effects of EMP. "Sunspots", a form of EMP have crushed powergrids from time to time, and have affected vehicles as well. One of the lesser documented damages to the U.S Navy Fleet that observed Nuclear tests in the South Pacific was the failure of some of the electrical systems above the hull line. For some ships, Carriers, and non-armored vessels the damage was so severe that some had to be taken in tow.

EMP is the most frightening form of attack that we face. It only takes one or two properly tuned devices, detonated at the right place, and the right time, and the correct altitude to destroy our lives. This danger is not overstated, it is vastly understated.
 
#39 ·
OD AK, I think you're right. In all likelihood the vehicle will be used to get you to your location then you're done. In my case, I need to get approximately 20-25 miles, so a full tank of fuel on ANY vehicle should do that no problem.
 
#47 ·
an enduro type motorcycle with capability to carry gear, would be the best bet.
Hey, it worked for Charlton Heston in "The Omega Man"!

If you're not moving a huge amount of gear, a motorcycle will do quite well. Some of the "adventure tour" guys load them until they're so topheavy they're hard to ride, which is the wrong answer. The correct answer: put your junk on a trailer.

I'd seen motorcycles with trailers for decades, and had always thought they were disasters waiting to happen. A trailer can make a single-track vehicle jackknife if you have to brake hard. Now consider, my idea of "braking hard" means "air under the back tire." So I dismissed the whole idea of trailers.

Then my brother got a wild hair for a trailer... for his VFR800, with was one of those lay-on-your-face sportbikes. So I spent a couple of days building a hitch and he spent a week or so narrowing a Harbor Freight utility trailer until it was no wider than the mirrors, which were wider than you'd think.

Got it all together. The trailer weighed maybe 150 pounds. We threw a 175-pound Chevy engine block on it and went riding. I traded bikes with him after an hour or so to see what it felt like.

You don't even notice it's there unless you hit some bumps in a turn, when the tongue wags the back of the bike a bit. Not much, just enough to feel peculiar. After a while you don't pay any attention to it.

You can stop quite briskly with the trailer. One thing I'd failed to consider was that the cargo is all above the hitch centerline, so when you brake, the trailer tends to push the rear of the bike down. You could probably still grab a big handful of front brake and get into trouble, but for normal riding there's no problem.

Also, when you get to where you're going, you just pull the pin and unplug the lights, and go hammer AR16 or Deal's Gap, with all your stuff safe at the motel. And if you're smarter than we were, you'd make the trailer narrow enough to fit through the motel room door...
 
#41 ·
Bill, you're correct, as an enduro or an ATV would be "best" given the potential gridlock, but unfortunately due to some family health issues, that is not an option. If it were just me, I would probably go with a 4 wheeler ATV with front and rear cargo racks.

I really need something larger, and preferably an automatic in case my wife needs to drive it. (She can drive a straight drive, but her arthritis makes it painful.)

I'm truly thinking that the CUCV is an interesting alternative, IF I can get a couple of them cheap, even better.
 
#43 ·
I'd want to do a physical inspect of a CUCV before buying one.

You'll probably need two new batteries for the 24v running gear. A resistor drops the 24v to 12 for accessories, so no worries there.

There's also a good likelyhood of the injectors needing to be cleaned, a lot of the CUCV spent a good deal of their active life idling.

And as you've probably already seen, the interiors are trashed or close to it.

Other than that, normal used vehicle inspection should shake out winners from losers. If you can somehow jumpstart them in the lot that may also help, though 24 volt jumpstart won't be easy.
 
#46 ·
Thanks for the tips Sjohnson.

Gunny, that is funny as hell, I don't care who you are!!!!! LMAO!!!!!

Brad, that guy has a TON of sh*t on his E-bay store. Interesting deauce n a half. Hell he even has Unimogs too.
 
#48 ·
I LOVE Deal's Gap!!!! Been a few times with the 928 Owners Club. What a rush!!!!!!! Tail of the Dragon.
 
#49 ·
2ndAmendican
The CUCV can be had pretty cheap on GOV liquidation.com ... there is allot to choose from all over the country.They usually sell for about $1000-$2000. But to buy from them you have to be a US citizen with no felonies. The m35 a3's are bad ass but they are not multifuel they usually sell @ auction between 6-8 K,they use hydraulics for everything . The M35a2's are mulifuel direct inject turbos 5 speed w/hi & low stick shift, air lock frt end, some have the hard roofs ,cab heaters winch & rarely power steering(There is a kit ) . I bought one a few years back for $3500 + had it shipped to me for $800 . It is a blast to drive.There is a m109a2 that you should consider (duece w/box on back)same price as m35 a2's...
as others said chevy PU 350ci is great too.offroad dirt bikes atv...buy um all and be really prepared
Heres' a couple of my toys
ak9
 

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#53 · (Edited)
Best looking truck Chevy ever made. In my opinion.
I havent read all the posts on this but have concidered it my self.
My quick answer, if more than 2 or 3 people were moving out with me would be a older Jeep Cherokee.
4x4 with a 3 to 5 inch lift. Tons of options out there for that.
Aftermarket support is amazing. Heck my last one had a 350/TH350 and nothing but an HEI for electronics. Advance Adapters makes the mounts. Fits in nice.
33" Super Swampers, welded rear, open front, 231 t-case.
I would pick the Cher over a TJ or YJ because of the extended wheelbase and still narrow enough to run through the woods when needed.
Better security with 5 locking doors.
Full size rigs need more room to move around and are harder to hide.
MOGs, Hummers and the like are nice. But heavy. Land Rovers are good but if you are running from something and need a part, good luck finding a Rover part.
S Series Blazers and Jimmys are a good starting point as well but the IFS has to go.
 
#52 ·
I like the chevy 350 idea, even thou I'm a Ford guy. Theres no arguing the point that there is about a zillion 350 chevys and trannys to go with them, and the world is awash in parts for them,oem and aftermarket, usually cheaper than the other 2 of the big three companys parts. I've seen guys rebuild turbo 350 auto trannys on a tarp out in the back yard and they ran like new.Get an older Blazer or a newer one and swap in a no electronics engine, and a non-overdrive tranny, they are MUCH easier to rebuild. You can stock up on spare parts cheap. Same line of thinking as me taking my AR instead of an AK---parts availability.
 
#54 ·
If you are wanting something with no computer chips what so ever and want lots of room, look for a Chevy or GMC Suburban without HEI. I'm partial to the 67-72 models, but the newer ones are much more common. Your best bet is get a '73-'86 and if it's '75 or newer just swap in a points distributor. Get one with either a 350 or 454 and I suggest a 3/4 ton version so you get a 14 bolt out back and a better frame.
 
#55 ·
Yeah, I know it's a pretty large vehicle, but I'm partial to the mid/late 60's 3/4 ton Suburban 4x4. I have found a few, but they are either basket cases, 1/2 ton vs 3/4 ton, or WAY over priced.
 
#57 ·
Hell yeah. Would love to see it.
 
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