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Thread: MG42 Rail Rivets

  1. #11
    U.N.C.L.E. Illya Kuryakin's Avatar
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    Is the guy from Spokane ?


    Did I do that?

  2. #12
    Plinker762's Avatar
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    No, alas the guy from Spokane builds many more riveters than firearms. It was used by a FFL/SOT to build a Post May Dealer Sample. He had a much easier time building a MG-42 since he could just use the parts as they were meant to be used.

    I do drag out my '42 kit once in while to look at the parts. I am planning on making a jacking screw similar to Hcpookie did, but use a piece of bar instead of the coupling nut. I think Tanker on 1919a4 adapted his 1919 wedge for the mg42.

  3. #13
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    Well to tantalize you further... I've completed building my kit.

    Kinda frustrating to spend half a day going to the range only to get light primer strikes. I am getting light primer strikes, and I know that I need to tweak the hammer to move farther forward. It only needs that tweak work and it should be done. I figured I'd try it before I tweaked it just in case I was lucky. Cest la vie!

    I must admit that the rivets are rather easy in comparison to drilling the bolt for the new firing pin. To say that is "hard metal" is an understatement. I wore out my first endmill while doing this. It is much easier with a dremel tungsten metal cutting bit
    Gunco Member #10

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    The "original" Boltcutter Rivet Squeezers:
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  4. #14
    Administrator pirate56's Avatar
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    The proper tool for drilling the wedge and feed stud is a solid carbide straight flute drill bit. it goes through like butter.

    The easiest way to do the rivets is with a TIG torch, back them up with the screw jack bucking tool and ball the heads with the torch. they come out perfectly spherical.

  5. #15
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pirate56
    The proper tool for drilling the wedge and feed stud is a solid carbide straight flute drill bit. it goes through like butter.

    The easiest way to do the rivets is with a TIG torch, back them up with the screw jack bucking tool and ball the heads with the torch. they come out perfectly spherical.
    Where might one find a carbide drill bit? The only ones I know of are the masonry bits, but they seem to be the wrong shape on the bit.
    Gunco Member #10

    http://pookieweb.net


    The "original" Boltcutter Rivet Squeezers:
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    Project Pink - the Pink and Blue AK-74:
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  6. #16
    Administrator pirate56's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hcpookie
    Where might one find a carbide drill bit? The only ones I know of are the masonry bits, but they seem to be the wrong shape on the bit.
    several places
    carbidedepot.com
    victor machinery
    mscdirect.com

    They sell for about $12.00 to $15.00, get a solid carbide straight flute. They drill through the bolt wedges like they were aluminum. use about 900 rpm spindle speed and lube it with cool tool or tap magic. as long as you are careful and don't chip them they last a long time.

  7. #17
    Plinker762's Avatar
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    I purchased my carbide bit from Mcmaster-Carr. As pirate56 said, they go right through the wedge. I was almost disappointed how easy it was. They don't work on case hardened material. They will break as soon as they hit the soft core. I wasn't sure if the wedges were through hardened until I drilled them.

  8. #18
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    Well had I known that 72 hours ago, I would have saved myself about $40 in broken drill bits and end mills, and about 8 hours worth of inventing new ways to curse German over-engineering.

    I've absolutely decimated my TiN-coated drill bit set from HF. These things are "made in China" but darned if they don't stay sharp for very long... time for some new drill bits.
    Gunco Member #10

    http://pookieweb.net


    The "original" Boltcutter Rivet Squeezers:
    http://pookieweb.net/AK/rivet/boltcutters/boltcutter.htm


    Project Pink - the Pink and Blue AK-74:
    http://pookieweb.net/pink/pink.htm

  9. #19
    Gunco Veteran panaceabeachbum's Avatar
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    I have only drilled about 25 roller wedges and all have been only surface hardened about .04 deep. I just use a carbide endmill to break the surface and then drill right thru with a std high speed steel drill bit without any problem.
    I built my bucking jack for riveting by taking a pice of 5/8 diam drill rod , drilling a 7/16" hole in one end and dimple the other with a 1/4" ball end mill, then take a grade 8 7/16" bolt, dimple the head with end mill, thread a nut in place and stick the bolt in the short piece of drill rod. You could just use a drill bit for the dimple as you cant really see that end of the rivet anyway

  10. #20
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    See, I was expecting it to be surface-hardened, thus my decision to use my end mill first... it would seem mine was hardened through-and-through. It was really nasty to watch an end mill get red-hot after it got dull on the roller wedge. Maybe it was already dull to begin with, but it did start out by making some real nice chips. So I figured it would get easier the deeper it went...
    Gunco Member #10

    http://pookieweb.net


    The "original" Boltcutter Rivet Squeezers:
    http://pookieweb.net/AK/rivet/boltcutters/boltcutter.htm


    Project Pink - the Pink and Blue AK-74:
    http://pookieweb.net/pink/pink.htm

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