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Thread: My M53/MG42 is almost there

  1. #1
    Angry White Man RetVet's Avatar
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    Default My M53/MG42 is almost there

    The last major task I have is riveting the camming piece into position. The receiver otherwise is complete with grip mods done/installed and working fine. A few pesky problems to diagnose though.....

    1. I can't manually pull the bolt back far enough with the cocking handle to eject a cartridge. The raised tab on the rear of the ratchet plate prevents the handle from going back far enough.....about 3/16th" shy. Ratchet plate installed where it needs to be less the tip of the cocking handle protrude in the ejection port. I think I simply ground off too much on the tip of the cocking handle when I notched it where it interacts with the tab on bolt carrier. Easy fix.

    2. Getting the bolt back past the camming piece at the point of unlocking the bolt/barrel is now a bear. It was working fine after welding the receiver halves, so I'm confused as to what's causing the problem now.

    -Barrel slides back and forth freely without binding under pressure from recuperator.
    -Barrel installs and the door closes smoothly.
    -No apparent sharp corners or obstructions noted in transition between camming piece ramps and the rails.
    -At times I can hear the bolt disengage the barrel and the barrel return forward, but the bolt still resists being pulled to the rear.
    -Tried several different bolt head and barrel combinations, no diff. All this with the top cover and feed tray removed.
    " The world is a very dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but because of those who do nothing about them." - Albert Einstein, 1879-1955


  2. #2
    Gunco Regular Gunter's Avatar
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    For #2 did you try it with the FCG housing removed?

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    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    "At times" the bolt releases. Definitely on boad with Gunter - try that.

    If you remove everything BUT the bolt and barrel, does the same action occur? Remove the muzzle brake and press on the tip of the barrel to unlock it from the recuperator. Then add items back one by one to see if you can get it to repeat the binding.

    I found my FCG housing had to be cut down more than I had expected to ensure there was enough room for everything.

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  4. #4
    Angry White Man RetVet's Avatar
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    I'll pull the FCG housing off tonight and give that a try first then do the step by step thing with one component at a time.
    " The world is a very dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but because of those who do nothing about them." - Albert Einstein, 1879-1955


  5. #5
    Administrator pirate56's Avatar
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    if it is binding at the very beginning, it is probly the cocking handle binding or it is causing the bolt to bind by forcing it to the side. if the portion of the cocking handle has a reverse angle on it where it engages the stud on the bolt it will shif it to the side and bind on the receiver.

  6. #6
    Angry White Man RetVet's Avatar
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    By reverse angle do you mean causing the bolt to shift left or right? I believe mine may be pulling a tad to the right.
    " The world is a very dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but because of those who do nothing about them." - Albert Einstein, 1879-1955


  7. #7
    aka: SDK1968 dutigaf's Avatar
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    another thing (although Pirate is almost always right!) is your bolt could be catching on one of the rails...

    i had to shim one side of my rails out to get it "even" with the path in the barrel and pull the other side in really good with the rivet....

    you may wanna check there.
    say what you mean & mean what you say


  8. #8
    Administrator pirate56's Avatar
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    Yes, if the handle tab has an angle like this \ it will push the handle to the right and cause it to bind on the receiver, it should be like this / to pull the handle towards the bolt.

  9. #9
    Angry White Man RetVet's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Progress made!

    I added some extra steel to the cocking handle tip to aid in pulling the bolt assembly far enough to the rear to engage the ejector. Also altered the angle slightly as pirate suggested. Cocks just fine now AND ejects my dummy cartridges.

    Cycled a few more dummy rounds through. With the bolt fully forward, a belt loaded, and the top cover locked in place, there's too much drag exerted to pull the cocking handle back to chamber a cartridge. Since the original bolt and FCG design held the bolt back when not firing, I believe that's normal since a belt would normally be loaded with the bolt held to the rear. I'll need to review my notes and Folkes book again.

    Still have a bit of a "shopping list" to work through before this beast goes to the range for a test drive.

    -Check headspace on barrel/bolt combinations
    -Check gap if any between rear of pirate's firing pin unit and the bolt inside the buffer tube (looks like there will be contact between the two)
    -Rivet camming piece
    -Check ejector pin travel (the brass dummy rounds I cycle and ejected by hand were dented pretty good by the pin)
    -Correct rotational slop between butt stock unit and buffer unit

    I've got a plan for adding a safety that uses the original safety (modified) and blocks upward motion of the trigger. Just need to pencil it out. Also a plan for installing the ejection port cover and making it functional.
    " The world is a very dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but because of those who do nothing about them." - Albert Einstein, 1879-1955


  10. #10
    Administrator pirate56's Avatar
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    when first charging the gun you need to have an empty link over the feed slot. also if there is a lot of drag check the feed tray fit.

    as far as the fp goes if it is to long in the back you can trim a little off as long as it sticks out about an 1/8" with the ejector ring rearward and the fp forward.

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