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Thread: MG47-308

  1. #61
    Gunco Member cntrailrider's Avatar
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    Mustang -

    Sounds like you can see the finish line, from where you're standing. And being the first one in .308 - you have broken new ground. I don't know how strong your recoil spring is (or what length) but my M60 springs have just enough strength/length to strip, chamber, and rotate the bolt shut. Only then would it work. I did alot of experimenting using several different length springs (it did incur extra cost) but the weakest/shortest ones worked best, in the end. I had to stack sections together (not ideal) after cutting it too short, then used a new full section, after the best length for function was determined.

    Two questions, somewhat off-topic. How would you rate your build, as far as the entertainment/enjoyment/challenge factor? Meaning enjoying the construction process, the build challenges, and your anticipation level?? I think that's a fair question to be asking. Personally, on a scale of 10, I'd rate any beltfed AK a solid 12. Low cost might yield a 13

    2nd one - Were you mentally saturated, to where you dreamed about it at night, throughout the process? I did during mine - alot. Thought about them almost nonstop, day & night for weeks on end

    Good luck getting that last half inch of travel. Tighter gas system, and lightened BC (made a huge difference here) and charging lever never hurts either. You could always (incrementally) enlarge the gas port, as a last resort

    You've done a great job documenting your build. Nicely taken SHARP pics like yours make it more fun to follow. Your build thread has probably inspired alot more builders to jump in, and you deserve the KGB Award (Kommiefornia Gun Builders)

    Steve in El Paso

  2. #62
    Gunco Member MustangO3's Avatar
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    HA HA! Thanks a lot. Yes, I had a little rust forming this morning from drool at the local indoor range. I love bringing belt fed stuff in there, just for the reaction and , "WOW, is that legal??"

    I am using an m60 spring and doing exactly what you said as far as cutting and adjusting. I think my main problem is a loose/leaking gas system. I'll try again today.

    As for fun, entertainment, it has been the best project I have done to date. A SOLID 13+. I have really enjoyed it. As for challenging, you cna't be timid, just make the decision and go for it. Just cut on the cheap parts first. I am very much a hack,tinkerer. I did it pretty much, "cut close, beat to fit,paint (weld) to match". I would lie awake many nights waiting to get up and go play with it in the garage.

    I am already thinking of doing another, but it would really be based on the links and TC I could find. I have another brand new RPK just waiting.

  3. #63
    Gunco Member TheRedHorseman's Avatar
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    Very nice, and very inspiring. This and every other belt fed AK abortion thread got me on the phone with the gal at Robert RTG's shop. When I look at this build in particular, I can't help but think about how easy it would be to slap some spades on the back. Is that an evil feature behind enemy lines?
    Hated by many, loved by few.

  4. #64
    Gunco Member MustangO3's Avatar
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    Nope, my 1919 has spade grips. As a matter of fact in CA 50 BMG is banned in RIFLES so we all shoot 510 DTC, however a M2 does not meet the definition of a "rifle" in CA so there are guys shooting M2s in 50BMG out in public with no problem. CA really isn't that bad, you just have to do a little research. I'd love to put a pistol grip on this, but as it is it really shoots fine like this.

    So, I tightened the gas system and opened up the gas port to about .150 and went back to the range. It still does not quite get all the way through the cycle. It does fire, extract and sometimes eject, but because it doesn't get all the way back, there is not enough inertia going forward to strip the round and feed. Or at least i think that is what is happening. It fires and lockes up almost all the way back. I then can pull the bolt back the last little bit and it slams home, functioning properly the rest of the way. So, I came back, cut the back part of the spring into 3" segments so I can adjust it easier at the range and opened the gas port all the way to .189, per the plans from SS. I don't know when I'll get back to the range, but when I do I plan to video it to see where it is stopping if it does.

    By the way, between the weight of the gun and the recoil being absorbed all by the spring, recoil is very mild for a .308.

  5. #65
    Gunco Regular droog's Avatar
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    I wonder if Fal springs would work?

  6. #66
    SHARPSSHOOTER5090 SHARPSSHOOTER5090's Avatar
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    I tried a FAL spring with the looser fitting 7.62x39 rounds and it wasn't strong enough to strip them from the belt so I dought one would work with the tighter fitting 308s.

    SS

  7. #67
    Gunco Member MustangO3's Avatar
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    Yes, the M60 spring is the right spring for sure, it is just a balance to get to go all the way back and fwd. I am really close, but won't get too the range for a few days so I'll just have to keep thinking about it.

  8. #68
    Gunco Member alpine44's Avatar
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    Great job! Unfortunately, that leaves me with the challenge to come up with another crazy idea ;-)

    Are you still using .308 bullets in the RPK barrel? I you reload you could try the .311 147FMJ Russian surplus bullets from Wideners. They are cheaper than anything in .308 and would give you more pressure to cycle.

    If you open the gasport, you may as well install the bushing that Zastava uses in their M76 to adjust the gas volume for different ammo. (I will take some pix this weekend). This bushing inserts into the gas block and can be rotated into 3 positions. Each position has a progressively larger radial hole that connects the gas port with the inside of the bushing. While you are at making this bushing you could increase the diameter of the gas piston and tube. The bushing would make a nice "adapter" to the existing gas block.

  9. #69
    Gunco Member MustangO3's Avatar
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    Yes, I am still using .308, but I like that idea. I just would want to be very careful not to drop a .311 tiped .308 round into a .308 gun. That might be bad.

    The adjustable gas block may well be the way i go in the future. Please post the pic.

  10. #70
    Gunco Member alpine44's Avatar
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    Yes, it would be prudent to clearly mark the .311Win cartridges.

    To mark tips (surplus tracers for example) I punched holes in a thin piece of aluminum that match the pattern of my reloading board. After loading a batch I put the "mask" over the tips and give it a thin dusting of fast drying spray paint. On the primer side I typically use a Sharpie felt pen.

    As a historical side note: The challenge of different bullet calibers in the same case is not new. Back when I got my first "real" rifle the 8mm Mauser rounds came in either 8x57I (0.318) or 8x57IS (0.323). The main problem was that the 8x57I barrels were typically in actions that predated the Mauser 98k and were not nearly as strong.

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