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hotbarrel's receiver wrench

17K views 134 replies 33 participants last post by  FloridaAKM 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
This thread is a continuation of this thread.

http://www.gunco.net/forums/showthread.php?t=32883

Who's interested?
7.62x39


is this the tool made from 2 pieces of flat stock milled out to the profile
I think a neibor of mine has one I can easy copy . do you have any pic just to be shure..
 
#27 ·
I think both methods have pros and cons.
I found clamping the receiver and turning the barrel easier. But if you had a barrel whose flats were buggered up or that has already been refinished, I think clamping the barrel (under the hand guards where it can't be seen) and turning the receiver may be the way to go.

One thing to keep in mind, The barrel and therefore the hole in the barrel vise is tapered, requiring a ream with the same taper. I don't know if it's an off the shelf item.

Personally, I vote for the barrel wrench over the barrel vise.
 
#28 ·
hot barrel

again my intent is not to steal or highjack your thread and I award your attempt to help other's here. I wanted to save my receiver stubs I need them, for the build of a 70% so I went with the vise and wrench combo and as stated you can go either way. I locked the barrel vise with the barrel in my large table vise and turned the receiver stub with the wrench, slight amount of propane on the old stub to loosen it and I did need a breaker bar

I would like all to know I have had a running ad on several sites trying to buy used fal wrenchs and vises with no replies so I up and bought the combo.
for your build or kit disassembly you may wish to attempt alot of varied methods

sprat
 
#29 · (Edited)
Unless you have a specific use for the old stub like sprat does, there are much easier ways to remove it.
I tried doing it with a barrel vise and receiver wrench and couldn't break it loose. The barrel kept turning in the vise.

There is a method they use on the files, where a small cut is made in the operating rod area using a cutoff wheel or hacksaw. Once the cut is made, it releases the tension on the threads and the stub will spin off by hand.

I demilled two kits using this method, it works like a charm.
 
#30 ·
OK guys
as soon as I get the part in the mail to work from I will go buy material and get started. I am going to go with holding the reciever in the vise and turning the barrel. at least to start with. if their are people that want a barrel vise typ I can work on thet as it comes up. no matter what I need to getthe tool to hold the reciever in its odd shape. then it could be easy to add a handel if needed. as I am working I will look for a reamer that will fit the parrel properly just in case I need to make a barel vise tool too.

I will get back here soon as I get the material in hand and keep everyone updated. thanks HB
 
#31 ·
here is an inital list. more than enough to call it a go.
I do understand that some details are still unclear so as of yet nobody is to feel obligated yet. lets keep this fun.


762x39
caschu0
Winn-r
LRRP-87
tony
Bontai
tiger917
muttman
 
#32 ·
hotbarrel said:
.. no matter what I need to get the tool to hold the reciever in its odd shape. then it could be easy to add a handle if needed
HB,

The square cutouts in the receiver wrench are for 1/2" and 3/4" breaker bars, that's all the handle that's needed. Actually all you really need is the 3/4" that's all most of them have.
 

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#33 ·
7.62

yes That was why I stated that "I" needed the stubs, I actually bought a stub that was taken off with a wrench in a standard table vise the charging handle slot was crushed but thats only MY concern, and yes dremel cut-off wheels and chisels. most folks posting over at the file's dremel and turn the barrel with a open end wrench and skip the wrenchs posted above. again a little heat to the stub, the barrel vise tightened and then placed in a vice. I need the Large hole for the large breaking bar
lots of Thompson kit owners did the same thing they cut the stubs off with a dremel and a chisel, until they realized that the stub was the only part of the old receiver you could not buy, but again you folks with store bought receivers do not have that worry

Hot barrel-good luck with your venture
sprat
 
#34 ·
Will this one work -- and I'm sure it will, the difference can't be much -- on the inch ones?
 
#35 ·
I know I'll be needing some tools to assemble my FAL (assuming, of course, that I can ever find a receiver at anything less than outrageous price and delivered sometime before they open the skating rink in the infernal region!). Depending on your price, I may be in for one.
 
#36 ·
hot barrel,
just to make things a little clearer I'm looking for a reciver wrench not the barrel wrench. the cut out for the braker bar is not needed ( if you make one) Ill tack weld a plate on the bottom and clamp it down in a vice. muttman


this might help if the image works. muttman
 
#37 ·
barrel wrench's who make's or sells those????????????? why tack or weld anything just put the hot barrel receiver wrench in a vise and turn the barrel out with a OPEN END Wrench available at any hardware store and why weld anything and if you can not budge the barrel and round the corners of the barrel then get a barrel Vise or cut off wheels for your dremel

wynn
and all receiver wrenchs fit inch and metric pattern

sprat
 
#39 ·
muttman said:
hot barrel,
just to make things a little clearer I'm looking for a reciver wrench not the barrel wrench. the cut out for the braker bar is not needed ( if you make one) Ill tack weld a plate on the bottom and clamp it down in a vice.
There is no need to weld anything to it. The receiver wrenches are designed to clamp in a vise, as is.
 
#42 ·
yes I do believe I can put in a 3/4" square drive hole without much difficulty. I have not done any yet BUT I do have some ideas that I feel will work.

mutt man when it is closer to the time I will be happy to get it the way you like NO trouble. I am allways happy to do "custom" work whenever possable. it is all part of the fun.
depending on how dificult it is for me to get the 3/4" hole they may all have one. that way users can go either way ....
lets see....
 
#43 · (Edited)
here is a very rough idea of the reciever wrench. my thought is to keep the sides square AND put in the 3/4" hole, this way it can be held in a vise or turned with a wrench. the only downfall I see is I will have to drill deeper holes for the bolts.

this is not set in stone yet but I thought I would toss it out their for some feedback.
yes or no ????
 
#44 ·
it sounds like some guys may NOT need a set... if they are going to cut the reciever some and all they need is a barrel wrench. IF this is the case I have no problem offering single parts too. . when we get that far.
whatever you need is fine with me.
 
#47 ·
I think that a 1/2" hole would be better than a 3/4" hole if it is only going to have one square hole. Most people have 1/2" tools, but most would probably have to purchase a 3/4" breaker bar just for this tool. In addition, I think that 1/2" tools are strong enough for this task. Any thoughts?
 
#48 ·
3/4" breaker bars are longer and a lot stronger than a 1/2" bar.
You can always use a hunk of pipe to get past the leverage issue, but the strength still comes into play.
A 1/2" bar would suffice for assembly, but not for breaking loose a stub without cutting.
You can always buy a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter if you don't own a 3/4" breaker bar.
 
#50 ·
7.62. i guess my comment was reflecting my mood, most use openned wrench's for a barrel wrench

I had a bad day I drove to Philadelphia ordinance yesterday and actually hung out at the shop, great place 80% receivers laying all around "builders paradise"!!!
he had proto type bren receivers too, then I broke down on the way home spoiled the trip more about Philly ordinance another thread

I agree you should go with the larger breaker bar and adapt down, I weight 200lbs I really had to exert a lot of force to remove the stubs - plurial it wouls also depend on the vise and its location on your table
 
#51 ·
I did a FAL using a receiver wrench and open end wrench.

I have great patience when homesmithing (unlike the the rest of the time LOL) I find it therapeutic. I take great pride in my work and try to do the best possible build, with what I have available.
That said, I'll get to the point. I buggered up my barrel flats slightly, because the force required surpassed what an open end wrench was designed to handle.
An open end wrench is designed strictly for convenience. It only contacts two of the six sides of a normal fastener.
No matter what the quality of the wrench (and I was using as good as is available) at a certain point the "jaws" are going to flex and spread because they are only supported at one end. That's what happened to me.
With the bolt on the other end, the wrench above acts like a vise, clamping the flats and eliminating the possibility of the jaws opening up. Not to mention that it is much beefier than any open end wrench available.

I was lucky, I was able to clean the flats up to a point where the damage is all but undetectable.
Someone not using the utmost care, may not be so lucky.
 
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