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Thread: Home Brew Park Job.

  1. #11
    aka: SDK1968 dutigaf's Avatar
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    very nice am getting ready to try and learn this myself...
    say what you mean & mean what you say


  2. #12
    Gunco Member iNuhBaD's Avatar
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    Very NICE! I like it!

    Dutigaf -- Parkerizing is easier than many people think... It all boils down to what recipe you use, and how good of a job you do with metal preparation, degreasing, & handling.

    I use it to refinish those cheap $4 rusted-solid AK mags! $7 to $8 total cost invested and they look brand new! Homebrew parkerizing only costs me $3 to $4 per AK mag to refinish them!

    Your FAL looks like it turned out GREAT!!!!

    Edited to add: Disassemble the rusted solid mags, remove the cosmoline from the springs (they're good as new), and break the rust off the follower/magbody. Sand / Sandblast the mags. Degrease & park 'em.

    I did mine on the side-burner of my grill - I stole one of my wife's good stainless steel pots and now it's sole designated use is parkerizing! Don't re-use your pots for cooking after parkerizing with them - it's not good for your health!




    After the park is done I rinse them, and then submerge them overnight in a 5 gallon bucket of used motor oil (I heard this helps darken the park finish a little, as well as allowing the park to soak up plenty of oil). Then take 'em out of the oil and clean 'em up.

  3. #13
    Gunco Veteran Icarus's Avatar
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    I use 1 oz of phosphric acid and 1 oz of manganese dioxide to every gallon of water, degrease, metal prep and temp control are critical, as well as post wash, and post dip in black oxide solution
    American By Birth, Southern By the Grace Of God

  4. #14
    Gunco Regular resting's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by icarus View Post
    I use 1 oz of phosphric acid and 1 oz of manganese dioxide to every gallon of water, degrease, metal prep and temp control are critical, as well as post wash, and post dip in black oxide solution
    What temp are you using and for how long? Are you putting degreased steel wool in the solution? Thanks in advance.

  5. #15
    Gunco Veteran Icarus's Avatar
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    Yes on the steel wool, I run 185 to 195 F. on the temp for 15 to 25 minutes, depending on how it looks like it is reacting (the fizz factor), varies with different metals and the age and strength of the stew, post wash is critical and the black oxide adds alot

    Check out pirates tutorial, its quite helpful.
    American By Birth, Southern By the Grace Of God

  6. #16
    aka: SDK1968 dutigaf's Avatar
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    guys im planning on using my gas grill to heat it up.... but do you guys all have multiple tanks...

    one to degrease and boil, one to park, one to rinse???

    that seems to put this out of my reach.. cause im wanting to do my bren and need a tank long enough to hold the barrel..

    so the PVC sounded real nice for just doing the entire gun...
    im gonna research this out with you guys more as im a "study it to death' guy

    thanks for the tips and keep sharing.

    sdk

    edit: PIrates my bud and he keeps telling me its easy.... but hey he thinks building a mg34 is easy too.
    say what you mean & mean what you say


  7. #17
    Gunco Regular resting's Avatar
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    It only takes one stainless steel tank for the parkerizing solution. Other types of tanks can be used to degrease and rinse so this should cut your costs. Have a buddy that uses tank made from pvc to park. I'm not at home and won't be for a couple of weeks so I can't ask him exactly how he does it but I know he does bigger stuff like a 1919a4 that way.

  8. #18
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    You can use a regular steel tank for a parkerizing tank, but it will use up a lot of the solution to coat it first, and it will rust if you store the solution in it. I use a 5 gallon bucket for the post rinse to prevent the iron streaking. I don't preboil my parts, but if I had a part I couldn't get all of the oil or grease out of its a good idea, otherwise you end up with oil floating on top of the parkerizing solution. If that happens most will say to throw out the solution and start over. I've had good luck removing the oil in the tank by placing paper towels on top of the oil spots and removing them once it soaks up the oil. I use laquer thinner to degrease the parts first and then let them dry. Lauqer thinner is nasty stuff so wear gloves and don't use it near a flame. After the post park water dip I spray off the parts with a water displacing oil (WD40) and let them cool down and then oil them.

  9. #19
    Gunco Member iNuhBaD's Avatar
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    For mine, I used a bit closer to 3 oz of phosphoric acid (a bit too much), and I'm not sure about the amount of Manganese Dioxide. In the first batch I used 1 D-Cell battery's worth of Mang.Dioxide. In the 2nd batch, I doubled the MangDiox amount, lowered the Phosphoric Acid amt, and it worked MUCH better.

    Also, when I park, I usually have ONE 'tank' (in my case, a metal paint roller tray) filled with Acetone for pre-park degreasing. One plastic 'rinse tank' (tupperware type bin) filled with VERY HOT water. I have the Stainless Pot on the side-burner of my grill for the actual parkerizing work, and a 5-gallon bucket filled with ~2.5 gallons of used motor oil...

    I soak / slosh the parts in the Acetone for a while, then quickly dunk them in the rinse tub, and plop them into the parkerizing tank.

    I run my park pot at ~185 to 190, and I dunk one steel wool pad in the acetone, then in the rinse bucket, and then into the park tank... This helps to start 'activate' the reaction... Then I start the parking of parts.

    I park mine until the parts stop bubbling, take them out, rinse them in the water bin, and then I plunked them down into the bucket of motor oil to sit overnight.

    Some people like to merely blow-dry the water out of their parts, and then spray them with WD-40 and then do a little work to 'lube' them up with a gun oil... I've heard this works for the most part, but I've also heard of this method causing a lot of flash-rusting problems too (not enough oil was soaked into the parked finish - they appeared 'dry' when 'finished'). Thus I decided to try the oil bucket method.

    By completely submerging the parts in the motor oil, the parked finish is quickly SATURATED with oil. I heard this was supposed to give it a darker black finish, but I don't know whether or not that's true. All I DO know is that it did a damn fine job of allowing the park finish to soak up LOTS of oil - certainly enough to ensure it won't rust.

    There WERE a couple spots on the first run of mags that did rust up a little along the back spine of my AK mags, I heard that's most likely attributed to me not rinsing the acid off the parts long enough before dunking them overnight in the oil... Perhaps, I don't know, but the 2nd time around I let them rinse a little longer (a minute or two), and had ZERO rust problems.

    When I pull the parts out of the oil bucket, clip the metal wires that I used to suspend them in the park & rinse tanks & oil bucket, I then just wiped them off good with paper towels, sprayed them with a cheap automotive degreaser to clean off some of the 'gunk' particles from the used motor oil, and then I wiped them down with drops of gun oil and a rag...

    They came out looking beautiful! And I haven't had aproblem with them since! They function 100%, the springs with the cosmoline cleaned off, oiled, and the whole mags all look brand spankin' new!

    Edited to add:

    Dutigaf (or anyone else trying their first time at parkerizing) --> I suggest you do your first parkerizing run on a bunch of smaller parts -- As sort of a 'Test Run' before you do anything bigger like a receiver, barrel, etc... I suggest you Park your smaller parts like the Flash Hider, buttplate & trapdoor parts, cleaning kit pieces, top cover, maybe a magazine or two... That sort of thing. When you get your recipe, setup, and timing all just right, then you can whip up a NEW BATCH of park solution, and then parkerize your bigger, more important parts.

  10. #20
    aka: SDK1968 dutigaf's Avatar
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    thanks for the tips i'll keep reading.... :-)
    say what you mean & mean what you say


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