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Thread: Building an L1A1, a couple questions from a newbie

  1. #21
    Gunco Member kendwell's Avatar
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    Before I got the gauge rod set,I used a starett small hole gauge to measure.
    I recommend a headspace go guage for accuracy. If you don't have either the small hole gauge or rod set, you could use nice drill rear shanks to get one tight and then use a micrometer to measure. Start with a loose one and wiggle front and back to tighten up the fit, then pick a snug fitting bit. Hopefully you have a full set of drills, letter, number, decimal, and maybe metric to work from. A small hole gauge works pretty good, but the guage rod set is tighter and much faster.

  2. #22
    Citizen, Patriot, Ranger bellson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mugofdoom View Post
    Thanks.

    How much are the Entreprise Inch pattern receivers?
    Looks like $429.00

    Here is a link. Sorry for the delay.

    Inch FAL Receivers
    Imagine whirled peas

    Peace, Love, And Superior Firepower






    Bellson

  3. #23
    Gunco Rookie Mugofdoom's Avatar
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    I got the rifle together today, I decided to shove the locking shoulder in without bothering to measure anything, probably a bad idea, but I didn't care. Well it worked, fired, ejected the first time. Second shot it locked up, taking considerable force to unlock the bolt and eject the spent cartridge, it continued to do this for the ten or so rounds we fired through it.

    I think it's pretty obvious the problem is the locking shoulder, I just want to be sure that this is a symptom of the locking shoulder being too big or too small, and which one.

    I'll measure it tomorrow and do it properly, I'd just like a little feedback beforehand, incase I overlooked something.

    Also, anyone know where I can get all the gastube/gasblock parts for a South African gasblock? I couldn't get the original L1A1 gasblock to work (nothing lined up right) so I just put the South African one on there and haphazardly shoved some of the original parts on, the gas selector thing isn't held on by anything but the spring, so it comes loose regularly, and isn't very reliable, so I need the original parts.

    Other than all those problems, the thing is coming together nicely. I got the Century receiver and the fit and finish was overall wonderful, all the parts fit in well, the barrel went in and fit perfectly, I managed to tighten it up with a wrench and used the original barrel shim to get it lined up vertically and tightened up nicely. There was one stupid problem I had though, they left a chunk of metal unmilled, which stopped the bolt from going all the way forward. My palm went straight to my face when I saw that, idiotic mistake. But otherwise it's a great receiver, feeds well, might need to polish the feed ramps slightly, but I really haven't had any problems with it.

  4. #24
    Gunco Veteran [486]'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mugofdoom View Post
    I got the rifle together today, I decided to shove the locking shoulder in without bothering to measure anything, probably a bad idea, but I didn't care. Well it worked, fired, ejected the first time. Second shot it locked up, taking considerable force to unlock the bolt and eject the spent cartridge, it continued to do this for the ten or so rounds we fired through it.

    I think it's pretty obvious the problem is the locking shoulder, I just want to be sure that this is a symptom of the locking shoulder being too big or too small, and which one.
    The problem might be that it isn't getting enough gas to eject the spent case, causing it to push it back into the chamber, for some reason it sticks, I've had this problem, just turn the gas regulator closed another notch...

  5. #25
    Angry White Man RetVet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mugofdoom View Post
    I got the rifle together today, I decided to shove the locking shoulder in without bothering to measure anything, probably a bad idea
    Headspace is important, especially with large rifle calibers. All depends on how much you value your face in its current configuration. Best to measure the headspace and get it right then take the risk of having your work go BOOM!

    I couldn't get the original L1A1 gasblock to work (nothing lined up right) so I just put the South African one on there and haphazardly shoved some of the original parts on, the gas selector thing isn't held on by anything but the spring, so it comes loose regularly, and isn't very reliable, so I need the original parts.
    The metric gas adjustment ring screws on and is held in position by that rectangular spring. Its a must. Also, the gas tube, once screwed into position is held in place by a small pin. Even small leaks in the gas system, coupled with numerous other factors like ammo, springs, etc., can affect functional reliability.

    the barrel went in and fit perfectly, I managed to tighten it up with a wrench and used the original barrel shim to get it lined up vertically and tightened up nicely.
    150lbs of torque is the minimum I go for if not a tad more.

    There was one stupid problem I had though, they left a chunk of metal unmilled, which stopped the bolt from going all the way forward.
    I would have thought Century would have corrected that by now. I used one of their metric receivers for a project a few years ago and had to grind out that same clearance for the extractor.
    " The world is a very dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but because of those who do nothing about them." - Albert Einstein, 1879-1955


  6. #26
    Gunco Rookie Mugofdoom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RetVet View Post
    Headspace is important, especially with large rifle calibers. All depends on how much you value your face in its current configuration. Best to measure the headspace and get it right then take the risk of having your work go BOOM!
    I actually tied it up to a gun rest to fire it instead of just shooting from the shoulder.

    I do, infact value my face in it's current configuration



    Quote Originally Posted by RetVet View Post
    The metric gas adjustment ring screws on and is held in position by that rectangular spring. Its a must. Also, the gas tube, once screwed into position is held in place by a small pin. Even small leaks in the gas system, coupled with numerous other factors like ammo, springs, etc., can affect functional reliability.
    Yeah I figured that would be a problem... maybe I could tape it...


    Quote Originally Posted by RetVet View Post
    150lbs of torque is the minimum I go for if not a tad more.
    I have no idea how much I tightened it actually, all I know is there's no way in hell it's going to come off easily.


    Quote Originally Posted by RetVet View Post
    I would have thought Century would have corrected that by now. I used one of their metric receivers for a project a few years ago and had to grind out that same clearance for the extractor.
    Yeah it was a stupid mistake, but I did not get this from Century directly (they were sold out), so this could be an old receiver.

    Anyway, yeah I'm going to order the parts for the gasblock (assuming I can find some...) and check for the correct headspace before I fire it again.

  7. #27
    Angry White Man RetVet's Avatar
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    I remote fire mine as well, even after checking headspace numerous times and inspecting every part. A bit anal maybe, but I can't afford to lose any more body parts.

    The tape idea wont work. It's been tried before. The first round down the pipe will blow it out. If your gas tube screws into the front sight/gas block easily or loosely, you can try flaring the end of the tube out a little bit by putting marble or ball bearing on the end of the tube and tapping it with a hammer. A proper flaring tools works better of course.

    Century receivers aren't known for being the most "in spec" receivers around as you've likely found out, but they do work as long as you don't mind fixing the minor flaws. On both of the ones I bought, and ended up using for the two pistol caliber builds below, I found the following problems that needing correcting:

    1. Poor or no extractor cut (as you already noted)
    2. Tight mag well that required opening up a bit (one wall was slightly bowed inward)
    3. Gas piston hole not exactly centered (fixed by opening the hole up a small bit)
    4. Barrel threading not fully cut (had to cut it deeper by about a turn)
    5. Bolt catch hole too tight (polished to fit)
    6. Upper to lower latch hook too thick (filed to fit lower)



    What gas block parts are you needing? I might have spares.
    " The world is a very dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but because of those who do nothing about them." - Albert Einstein, 1879-1955


  8. #28
    Gunco Rookie Mugofdoom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RetVet View Post
    I remote fire mine as well, even after checking headspace numerous times and inspecting every part. A bit anal maybe, but I can't afford to lose any more body parts.

    The tape idea wont work. It's been tried before. The first round down the pipe will blow it out. If your gas tube screws into the front sight/gas block easily or loosely, you can try flaring the end of the tube out a little bit by putting marble or ball bearing on the end of the tube and tapping it with a hammer. A proper flaring tools works better of course.

    Century receivers aren't known for being the most "in spec" receivers around as you've likely found out, but they do work as long as you don't mind fixing the minor flaws. On both of the ones I bought, and ended up using for the two pistol caliber builds below, I found the following problems that needing correcting:

    1. Poor or no extractor cut (as you already noted)
    2. Tight mag well that required opening up a bit (one wall was slightly bowed inward)
    3. Gas piston hole not exactly centered (fixed by opening the hole up a small bit)
    4. Barrel threading not fully cut (had to cut it deeper by about a turn)
    5. Bolt catch hole too tight (polished to fit)
    6. Upper to lower latch hook too thick (filed to fit lower)



    What gas block parts are you needing? I might have spares.
    Basically all the South African gasblock parts minus the nut that screws into the receiver. I think I need a front sight too but the L1A1 sight seems to work fine. I think I'm fine with all the pins and whatnot though, but I can always use some extras if you have any. The gastube screws in fine to the gasblock, it's nice and tight (don't know how the hell I'm supposed to put the pin in though), but that's not the problem, I'm using the L1A1 gasblock that's just barely held on by a spring that just barely fits, I think all the gas is just blowing out regardless of what setting I put it on.

    Also, the only problem I had was just that one chunk of unmilled steel that I had to fix, everything else was fine.

  9. #29
    Gunco Rookie Mugofdoom's Avatar
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    Hah, I figured out what the problem was!

    I had the gasnut thing (the part that locks into the front of the gasblock to keep the gaspiston and all that shite in. I'm terrible with terminology, I know) was on upside down, preventing the action from cycling.

    I fired three rounds flawlessly until the gas selector came loose and too much gas was being released and it locked up again. I'm still going to get some go and no go gauges though just to be sure it's not one more shot from blowing up in my face, but I assume that after 17 or so rounds through the thing with no signs of trouble, that it's atleast somewhat safe.

    Also, my flash hider flew off when I fired it and got lost in the brush.

    Yeah...
    Last edited by Mugofdoom; 04-26-2009 at 11:34 PM.

  10. #30
    Angry White Man RetVet's Avatar
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    The gas plug set to the grenade launching position catches a lot of people, me included. I'll see what other gas block parts I have, inch type as you say it's an L1A1. I know I have some spare gas regulators which is the part held on by just the clip.
    " The world is a very dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but because of those who do nothing about them." - Albert Einstein, 1879-1955


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