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Thread: Lost wax casting?

  1. #41
    Gunco Veteran Viper Dude's Avatar
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    Lost wax casting of AR uppers and lowers requires some pressure to insure the proper resolution. A knowledge or sprues, risers, and runners is also vital. I recall that Ruger pours their AR alloy from a 10 foot drop for the needed pressure. Yes, Ruger casts or has cast AR uppers and lowers for other manufacturers. One of the big challenges of the process is dealing with warpage. Some parts can be straightened others are tossed back into the melt.

    Casting wax is harder and has a higher melt temp than say candle wax. A friend makes his own wax shapes and ships them to California to be cast in nimonic alloy (small turbine parts).

    Other than as a fun casting project I would suggest using the forged AR blanks and machining them at home, much less grief.

    Have fun !!!
    VD

  2. #42
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    Viper Dude, as usual you've hit the nail on the head. It's mostly going to be a fun winter project. If I get a useable lower out of it great. If not I'll still have a better means of heat treating steel and the ability to cast some truly crappy parts to machine.

  3. #43
    3/6 Infantry mtdew's Avatar
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    Great thread, I've been interested in this for a long time(big ruger fan). I was thinkin that the finished project wouldnt need to look EXACTLY like the original. It could have extra "meat" where needed for the areas where cast might not be up to snuff. Then all you got to worry about is shrinkage. Good luck and keep us posted.
    "NA BEAN DON CHAT GUN LAMHAINN"
    Clan MacPherson
    "CREAG DHUBH"!

  4. #44
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    I got the 220 plug for my electric kiln and fired it up...... sort of. Only the lower half heated up. I traced it down to a couple $5 parts which are on their way from the manufacturer. I'm still working on the burner tube for the propane fired one.
    Mtdew, I also was thinking that some parts could be beefed up slightly to make them easier to cast and stronger. I've thought about inlarging a basic model using tape or clay to make a first mold to cast a wax model from, then detail the wax model and make a new mold from the wax model. As far a shrinkage goes I think I'll have a steep learning curve for figuring out how to make the leads/runners. On the plus side all my mistakes can be melted down and recast. Kinda like casting bullets. You get a few bad ones when you first start casting, you throw them back in the pot and go on.

  5. #45
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    I got my repair parts for my electric kiln in earlier in the week and installed them. It looks to me whatever moron originally wired it for 110 decided the easiest way to do it was only use 1 of the 2 heating elements. My guess is that they didn't have a big enough circut breaker to run both. I still need to get a new longer cord for it but the kiln now heats up a lot faster with both elements working. I got the casing done for the propane fired forge and hope to get it cleaned out and filled with refractory this weekend. The lid is on a simple hinge made from two pieces of pipe cut at an angle and a section of 3/4" rod. when you start to swing the lid out of the way the hinge lifts up the lid so that its not dragging accross the lower half. Heres a pic with the lid installed upside down.

    Edit: I mixed up the refractory and packed it in the forge with a 2x2 and 2x4. I ended up having to make a second batch because there wasn't enough to finish the lid. I'll let it sit for a day or two before I pull out the forms
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    Last edited by moleman; 11-14-2009 at 02:44 PM.

  6. #46
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    After a day and a half of drying I pulled the forms out of the forge. I let it sit a couple more days then I stuck a 90watt lightbulb inside the forge and left it until today. The lightbulb kept the forge slightly warm to the touch to help it dry faster.
    For a burner I took a 1.5" to 3/4" reducer, a 10" section of 3/4" black pipe and a 3/4" to 1" reducer. To mount the HF brush torch to the pipe I unscrewed the torch burner tube and set it aside. I then drilled out a 1.5" pipe plug for the tip of the torch head to go inside and cut away the sides to allow air to enter. A 1/4" (or possibly an 1/8") brass compression fitting out of the junk drawer fit the threads on the brush torch head, so I used it as a nut on the inside of the 1.5" plug. I need to open up the air ports a little as the flame isn't perfect, but it worked well enough for a test run. I fired up the forge and let it run for about 2-3 minutes, then after a few hours I ran it for about 5 minutes. It didn't come through in the picture very well, but the bottem of the forge was starting to turn reddish orange.
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  7. #47
    Gunco Member holdfastgreg's Avatar
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    Very interesting thread.

  8. #48
    Gunco Member alpine44's Avatar
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    Moleman,

    Here are 2 links that may be interesting or the forge/smelter building:

    Ray-Vin Technical Pages
    Zoeller Forge Home Page Gas Forge parts, Atmospheric Burners, and Blacksmithing

  9. #49
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    Thanks alpine44. I have seen the ray-vin site before, but forgot what it was called. The Zoeller site looks great also. Santa has been nice and is letting me read a stocking stuffer book called "lost wax or investment casting" by James Sopcak. "Lost wax investment casting" by C.W. Ammen which was recomended by jrenyard is also on the way.

  10. #50
    AKAHOLIC o.d. ak's Avatar
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    Damnit hurry up and cast something !!!! LOL

    I've been reading this thread for the last year and wanna see some results !!! I demand it !!!

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