here is a request. had this thread up before (or thought i did)& its just a basic run thru with a couple of nice pix and a template that another member made for me off of my AR set up.
so here we go:
we have lots of different members here with varying skill levels.
mills are great if you have one, but not everyone can afford them or has the space for one. many of the builders in our hobby use just basic tools.
grinder, welder, drill press, rotozip and so on...
with that said here is a template for the guys who want to use a drill press to complete an Tactical Maching style upper. im sure it could be used to complete any brand out there, im just referencing theirs because i have done them this way.
this PDF was sent to me and is available on many sites on the web. its pretty good for the basic completion with the drill press or even with just my "mini template" set up in the other thread.
the main thing here is taking the time to be square and true with your markings.
this doesnt take fancy tools, it takes care on your part and not letting yourself get in too big of a hurry.
this is always a problem for me as i luv building and get way into it and get in a hurry every time!
so measure twice and drill once
the PDF shows what holes and locations to drill for the pocket of the FCG along with the depth and even the size bits to use.
my own ad on tip is for after the drilling is done.
go to your local fastenal, grainger, MSC or some similiar type of store and get you an ALuminum "burr bit". you'll be better served to get a 3/8" size to use a a finish bit for the sides of your pocket.
its just a personal preference but i like the one with the flat bottom that also cuts so that you smooth up all the way around.
now this is where the "tool NAZI's" will jump in and tell you how a drill press is not a mill and that its not made for side loading......
they would be correct. ITS NOT good for it. especially if your gonna shove your guts out on it.
but if you have a decent drill press and are just trying to smooth up aluminum and go slow your not gonna tear it up overnite.
or if you have a cheap one and dont care then have at it. ;D
the main thing is to make sure you have a ALUMINUM BURR BIT and not one for steel. the aluminum ones have different cutter grooves and wont clog up if you use them right. and this will last a long time if you use it correctly.
dont over heat it is the key.
my very first tommy conversion was completely "milled" out on a drill press and theres tons of pix here showing that. same thing for the P7 build. its all about patience with this.
just remember: if you really want to build it, you'll find a way to get it done.
and then Anthony C made this lovely little PDF that is to the correct scale. i printed it out and then put it on a lower and its perfect. so big props to him!
so thats really all there is too it. theres all the info you need on 1 sheet and pic and then theres a PDF template for laying out a FCG plate in actual size.
ive done ..... lets just say "several" of these Tactical Machining lowers with this set up and it works every time.